Lebanon Crisis Mutes National Music Conservatory

Lebanon's national conservatory of music student Matthew Ata, 10, plays guitar during a debut concert performance at the Al-Madina theatre in Beirut, on April 18, 2023. (AFP)
Lebanon's national conservatory of music student Matthew Ata, 10, plays guitar during a debut concert performance at the Al-Madina theatre in Beirut, on April 18, 2023. (AFP)
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Lebanon Crisis Mutes National Music Conservatory

Lebanon's national conservatory of music student Matthew Ata, 10, plays guitar during a debut concert performance at the Al-Madina theatre in Beirut, on April 18, 2023. (AFP)
Lebanon's national conservatory of music student Matthew Ata, 10, plays guitar during a debut concert performance at the Al-Madina theatre in Beirut, on April 18, 2023. (AFP)

At Lebanon's national music conservatory, pianos collect dust and classrooms sit empty, making the institution another casualty of an economic collapse that has crippled the public sector and hampered education.

Toufic Kerbage, 65, watched the value of his pay packet and pension evaporate after the Lebanese economy began melting down in 2019, taking the local currency and people's savings with it.

Without family support "I would have starved," said the music teacher, who began working at the conservatory in the late 1980s.

"It's difficult at my age to ask for money", he said from the silence of the conservatory's branch in Sin al-Fil, a suburb of the capital Beirut.

Once on a comfortable income, Kerbage now earns around $70 a month, in a country the World Bank says suffers the highest food price inflation globally.

He has been teaching his classes online, battling Lebanon's "disastrous" internet and spending more than he earns on a generator subscription to get through hours-long daily power cuts.

The state-run conservatory, with several thousand mostly school-aged students and 17 branches around the country, counts prestigious musicians like the composer and oud player Marcel Khalife among its alumni.

But as the economic crisis grinds on, some teachers have quit. Many others have turned to online classes to save on travel costs or teach private lessons on the side to make ends meet.

Kerbage said he was "worried" about colleagues without a support network.

'Musical revolution'

Taking matters into their own hands, a group of teachers and students have been holding independent concerts to highlight their plight and give musicians a chance to support each other and perform.

"I am here today to stand with my colleagues who are not happy with the way we are treated," said concert organizer Ghada Ghanem, who is also a teacher and soprano.

Some teachers have moved house or "sold their cars" to survive, added Ghanem, herself a conservatory student during Lebanon's 1975-1990 civil war.

The shows' proceeds will be invested into creating further performance opportunities or distributed among those involved, she said, calling the initiative a "musical revolution".

"Let's fix our problems with our own talent," Ghanem said recently from a darkened Beirut theatre before a recent show -- the second in a planned series.

"Depression will attack us if we sit and do nothing."

Matthew Ata, 10, said he was "a bit nervous" about his debut concert performance.

Despite starting with the conservatory two years ago, he only met his guitar teacher for the first time at the show.

"We really hope that things will get better" and in-person classes will resume, said Matthew's mother, Rita Jabbour.

Some students said the protracted online teaching and disruptions had left them feeling discouraged.

Software engineer Aline Chalvarjian, 33, who studies oud and lyric singing, said she had "lost motivation".

The conservatory used to be "like a second home", she said. Now, "we feel that we are left behind".

'First' pay boost

Like other public sector workers throughout the crisis, conservatory staff have taken strike action to demand their rights are respected, with the head of the conservatory teachers' league sacked in January after organizing protests.

In recent months, teacher strikes at Lebanon's public schools have paralyzed the education sector.

Soprano Hiba al-Kawas, who last year became the first woman to head the conservatory, said she had worked day and night to improve the situation, but political deadlock has stymied progress.

Lebanon's entrenched political elite, widely blamed for the country's crisis, has failed to take action to stem the three-year economic collapse.

As sectarian barons bicker over who should be the country's next leader, the presidency has remained vacant since October 31, while a caretaker government with limited powers has been at the helm of the bankrupt state for almost a year.

Despite the obstacles, Kawas said she had managed to secure pay increases that should allow a return to in-person teaching.

A teacher who was paid 30,000 Lebanese pounds per hour -- $0.50 based on an exchange rate used for public sector salaries -- would earn 300,000 once the wage hike takes effect, she said.

It is "just a first step", Kawas added. Teacher Kerbage expressed optimism at the new regime, which he said should push his monthly earnings into the hundreds of dollars.

"Anything" would be welcome, he said.

"I would be able to pay for my fuel, for my electricity, and for some food -- that's a lot."



Chinese Lion Dance Troupe Shrugs off Patriarchal Past 

This photo taken on January 22, 2025 shows members of a lion dance troupe playing drums and percussions during a lion dance practice session in Shantou, in southern China's Guangdong province. (AFP)
This photo taken on January 22, 2025 shows members of a lion dance troupe playing drums and percussions during a lion dance practice session in Shantou, in southern China's Guangdong province. (AFP)
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Chinese Lion Dance Troupe Shrugs off Patriarchal Past 

This photo taken on January 22, 2025 shows members of a lion dance troupe playing drums and percussions during a lion dance practice session in Shantou, in southern China's Guangdong province. (AFP)
This photo taken on January 22, 2025 shows members of a lion dance troupe playing drums and percussions during a lion dance practice session in Shantou, in southern China's Guangdong province. (AFP)

Flinging her male teammate into the air, performer Lin Xinmeng practices China's world-famous lion dance with a troupe that is shrugging off centuries of patriarchal norms.

Mixing acrobatics, martial arts and theater, lion dancing is believed to bring prosperity and protection from evil spirits.

Performed across China and around the world, at weddings or during business openings, it is a mainstay of Lunar New Year celebrations, which begin on Wednesday.

"I discovered this dance one day by chance in the street. I found it super graceful," Lin, 18, told AFP in a courtyard in the southern Chinese city of Shantou, where her troupe trains.

"The tenacity of the dancers, their ability to perform these movements, impressed me. I wanted to become like them," she said.

Inside a costume consisting of a large, colorful lion head and a long, silky piece of fabric representing the body, dancers must work in tandem to bring the animal to life.

It can be tough on dancers' bodies, with one performer often required to lift the other by the waist to simulate the beast jumping on its hind legs.

That physical exertion, coupled with deep-rooted patriarchal attitudes, has long resulted in women being excluded from the tradition.

But Lin Likun -- the troupe's 31-year-old coach -- said the presence of women made the lion dancing show more "enjoyable" and means more people can pass on "this intangible heritage".

"We are constantly looking for ways to innovate, to breathe new vitality into lion dance," he said.

"It also allows us to reflect women's aspirations," he added, even if some give up along the way because of the physical demands.

- Rejecting patriarchy -

The troupe, called Lingdong, counts about 80 members aged between 13 to 33, most of them school students.

Around 20 of them are women.

While the presence of young women in the troupe elicits "mostly positive" feedback, Lin acknowledges that there has been some "mockery" and "negative reactions".

"Some old-timers think that women should stay at home and do housework. But our generation has a different view," he said.

"We believe in equality between men and women."

A growing number of Chinese women are rejecting the rigidity of traditional obligations imposed by their parents, who expect them to marry and have children young.

The cultural shift has been accompanied by the stardom of tennis player Zheng Qinwen, a champion at last year's Paris Olympics, and the critical success of the Chinese film "Her Story", which addresses gender inequality in contemporary society.

"Some say that a girl can't lead a lion. But it's my passion and it's up to me alone to take it on," said performer Lin Xinmeng.

"I want to surpass myself, to show that girls are not necessarily less good than boys," she explained.

- 'Masculine strength, feminine grace' -

Lin goes jogging, squats and weight trains to prepare herself for the most physically demanding parts of the dance.

She sees the participation of women and girls as a way "to combine masculine strength and feminine grace".

Another girl in the troupe, Dong Zidan, has 45,000 followers on the social network Douyin, China's version of TikTok, where she regularly shares content about lion dancing.

"I hope to encourage more girls to participate in our customs and pass on this intangible heritage," she said.

Coach Lin's next project is to have as many girls as boys in his team.

He will then try to create an all-women troupe -- a distant goal given the challenges that persist.

"The facts will prove that girls can assert themselves just as much as men," he insisted.

"Whether in lion dancing or in daily life."