Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
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Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)

In the kitchen of his Kabul restaurant, one of the last cooks to master the Afghan culinary art of "chainaki" stuffs chunks of lamb and fat into about 200 tiny teapots to simmer for hours atop a clay stove.

From dawn onwards, Waheed is a study in concentration as he checks the pots time and again -- making sure each is marinading with the precise proportion of fat rendered.

Once the pots are bubbling to his satisfaction he adds salt and lentils, before bathing the contents in a tomato-coloured sauce and secret spices.

"The recipe has been the same for over 60 years, passed down to me by my father," says Waheed, 45, who prefers to give only one name.

"He himself inherited it from his father. I haven't changed a thing."

With the fire crackling, the teapots -- many decades old, chipped or missing handles -- are covered with a sheet as the contents simmer away.

The heat quickly fills the restaurant and the heady smell of stewed lamb hangs heavy in the air.

Only then can Waheed take a break to tell his story.

He dropped out of school at 13 to hang around the kitchens in his father's restaurants before being handed the secret recipe -- which he worries may be revealed to his competitors through media coverage.

Some like it fat

The lamb stew he makes gets its name from the teapot -- "chainak" in several local languages -- in which it is cooked.

"I don't add any vegetable oil," he says, but the amount of lamb fat in each pot varies according to the taste of the customers arriving in a few hours.

Waheed took over the restaurant aged just 25 after his father died -- and confesses his own dish isn't quite as good.

"No pupil can replace his teacher, just as we can't replace our father," he says.

But he expects the family business may end when he calls it quits, as none of his 10 children wants to follow on.

"They're studying at school. They don't have the patience to do this work," he says.

After five hours of closely supervised cooking the chainaki is ready and the customers -- many already sitting cross-legged on platforms -- can finally enjoy their meal.

The stew is poured onto plates, eaten with ubiquitous unleavened Afghan bread, and washed down with lashings of green tea.

It costs 200 Afghanis ($2.30) a serving.

"When I eat it, I feel energetic until the evening," says Zabihullah, who has been a regular for 15 years, visiting up to three times a week.

"It's so delicious and tasty," adds Ghulam Usman Tarin, a more recent convert.

Over the years Waheed has served Afghan celebrities, politicians, as well as the few foreigners that seek out his humble restaurant -- and he puts his money where his mouth is, eating it himself every day.

He is usually sold out shortly after lunch, but then it is straight back to work as he carves up a sheep carcass for meat and fat to make the next day's serving.

"I'll keep doing it as long as I am strong enough," he says.



Van Gogh Painting Falls Short of Expectations in Hong Kong Auction

A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
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Van Gogh Painting Falls Short of Expectations in Hong Kong Auction

A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP

A Vincent van Gogh painting displaying the artist's shift from dark realism to vibrant impressionism sold for US$32.2 million at a Hong Kong auction on Thursday, falling short of expectations that it would fetch a record-breaking price.
"Les canots amarres" -- or "the moored boats" -- was the centerpiece of an inaugural evening sale held to celebrate the opening of auction house Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters.
According to Christie's, it was expected to fetch HK$230-380 million (US$30-50 million) on the auction floor, AFP reported.
If bidding had reached the higher end of the estimated value, it could have surpassed Jean-Michel Basquiat's "Warrior" -- which went for HK$323.6 million in 2021 -- as the most expensive Western painting sold in Asia.

But the hammer of auctioneer Adrien Meyer fell Thursday at HK$250 million.
Cristian Albu, deputy chairman and head of 20th/21st century art at Christie's Asia Pacific, said the price was the "record of a Van Gogh in Asia.”
The auction house was "cautious" with its lineup on Thursday in hopes of boosting market confidence, added Ada Tsui, head of evening sale and specialist for 20th/21st century art.
Owned by the Italian royal family of Bourbon Two Sicilies, the Van Gogh painting is "the most important painting by the artist ever to be offered in Asia,” Christie's said in its introduction.
"'Les canots amarres' marks a vital stepping stone in his career," it said.
The painting is one of about 40 works Van Gogh developed around the scenic French town of Asnieres, a boating hub on the outskirts of Paris, during the summer of 1887.