Afghan Village Potters Keep Centuries-old Tradition Alive

An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
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Afghan Village Potters Keep Centuries-old Tradition Alive

An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP

Twice a month, Noor Agha Faqiri lights up the kiln at his small workshop around 50 kilometers (30 miles) northwest of the Afghan capital to fire a fresh batch of pottery.

Faqiri is one of dozens of potters in Qarya-e-Kulalan (potter's village) in the picturesque Istalif district, but many have ceased production since the Taliban's return to power in 2021 as the distressed economy has led to sales plummeting.

Faqiri, however, is determined to carry on, AFP said.

"A business that your parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents have worked on should not be let go because it is particularly blessed," the 53-year-old told AFP during a visit.

"My children are also looking at the family business and want to maintain it in any circumstances and prevent it from going under."

Afghanistan has a centuries-old tradition of pottery across the country, but Istalif's reputation for craftsmanship and quality stands out.

The main street of Qarya-e-Kulalan is lined with pottery shops, at least half shuttered because of a lack of business.

Scenic village

But those still open display a dazzling array of jugs, pots, bowls and plates glazed with an eye-catching turquoise, aquamarine and earth-brown finish.

Most customers are day trippers from Kabul, who make the 90-minute drive to picnic in the hills or alongside the rivers surrounding the scenic village.

But wholesale merchants also occasionally show up with bigger orders for hotels and guest houses across Afghanistan -- and beyond.

"Previously, foreigners would come, and people from other provinces would come to see Istalif as it's one of the ancient, green places for tourism," said potter Abdul Hameed Mehran, 32.

The pottery is still made the same way it has been for centuries.

Clay from the surrounding mountains is thrown on wheels that are spun by the potter's feet as his hands deftly work.

"The work that I do is a matter of pride for me," he says.

"It is a source of pride for me that we make items like this in Afghanistan."

'Innovative work'

Mehran throws around 70 to 100 different pieces a day, depending on demand, which are then carefully stacked to part-dry naturally before the monthly bake.

"I come here again and again because new items are always being made and they are good quality," said Shah Agha Azimi, 25, a customer from Kabul



Van Gogh Painting Falls Short of Expectations in Hong Kong Auction

A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
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Van Gogh Painting Falls Short of Expectations in Hong Kong Auction

A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP
A visitor looks closely at 'Les canots amarres' by Vincent van Gogh at Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters in Hong Kong. Peter PARKS / AFP

A Vincent van Gogh painting displaying the artist's shift from dark realism to vibrant impressionism sold for US$32.2 million at a Hong Kong auction on Thursday, falling short of expectations that it would fetch a record-breaking price.
"Les canots amarres" -- or "the moored boats" -- was the centerpiece of an inaugural evening sale held to celebrate the opening of auction house Christie's new Asia Pacific headquarters.
According to Christie's, it was expected to fetch HK$230-380 million (US$30-50 million) on the auction floor, AFP reported.
If bidding had reached the higher end of the estimated value, it could have surpassed Jean-Michel Basquiat's "Warrior" -- which went for HK$323.6 million in 2021 -- as the most expensive Western painting sold in Asia.

But the hammer of auctioneer Adrien Meyer fell Thursday at HK$250 million.
Cristian Albu, deputy chairman and head of 20th/21st century art at Christie's Asia Pacific, said the price was the "record of a Van Gogh in Asia.”
The auction house was "cautious" with its lineup on Thursday in hopes of boosting market confidence, added Ada Tsui, head of evening sale and specialist for 20th/21st century art.
Owned by the Italian royal family of Bourbon Two Sicilies, the Van Gogh painting is "the most important painting by the artist ever to be offered in Asia,” Christie's said in its introduction.
"'Les canots amarres' marks a vital stepping stone in his career," it said.
The painting is one of about 40 works Van Gogh developed around the scenic French town of Asnieres, a boating hub on the outskirts of Paris, during the summer of 1887.