Silkworm Sashimi, Cricket Curry on Menu as Bugs Make a Comeback in Japan 

Cheese risotto with cricket meatballs is pictured at Take-Noko cafe in Tokyo, Japan, July 21, 2023. (Reuters)
Cheese risotto with cricket meatballs is pictured at Take-Noko cafe in Tokyo, Japan, July 21, 2023. (Reuters)
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Silkworm Sashimi, Cricket Curry on Menu as Bugs Make a Comeback in Japan 

Cheese risotto with cricket meatballs is pictured at Take-Noko cafe in Tokyo, Japan, July 21, 2023. (Reuters)
Cheese risotto with cricket meatballs is pictured at Take-Noko cafe in Tokyo, Japan, July 21, 2023. (Reuters)

On a recent vacation in Tokyo, Takumi Yamamoto opted for a special lunch of cricket curry and silkworm sashimi, washed down with a water bug cider.

The 26-year-old office worker, from the western prefecture of Hyogo, is one of scores of consumers across the world who have taken an interest in entomophagy, or eating insects, as bugs slowly become a more viable food source.

As a child, Yamamoto said he sometimes snacked on soy-sauce basted grasshoppers. In Tokyo, he indulged in insect cuisine at Take-Noko cafe, which embraces all things buggy.

"It's fun to select from a wider variety of dishes," Yamamoto said at the cozy second-floor cafe, surrounded by insect art and terrariums of skittering beetles, ants and cockroaches.

"Everything was tasty. In particular, the water bug cider was quite refreshing and delicious, like a green apple."

Entomophagy started to be taken seriously globally after the United Nations deemed bugs a sustainable source of protein to feed a global population estimated to swell to 9.7 billion by 2050.

The impact of the livestock industry on climate change, coupled with global food security issues due to extreme weather and conflicts, have also increased the interest in the high-quality, economical nutrition that bugs provide.

While some consumers think eating insects is just gross, Japan has a rich culinary history of insects as food.

Grasshoppers, silkworms, and wasps were traditionally eaten in land-locked regions where meat and fish are scarce, a practice that picked up amid food shortages during and after World War II, said Take-Noko manager Michiko Miura.

"Recently, there have been advances in rearing things like crickets and mealworms for food, so the possibility of using insects as ingredients is really growing," she added.

Several companies, including national bakery brand Pasco, have sold made cakes and snacks from cricket flour, and processed food maker Nichirei and telecom Nippon Telegraph and Telephone have invested in bug ventures in the past year.

The term "crickets" also started to trend in Japanese media recently after reports the powdered insects were being used in school lunches and snacks.

Consumer interest has also extended to Take-Noko, which manager Miura says is often fully booked on weekends.

Its curry is studded crickets in meatball form and dried garnish. The delicate "sashimi" is the left-over casing of silkworms, and the cider is infused with water bug extract and topped with a whole insect, said to taste like shrimp.

The restaurant is the brainchild of Takeo Saito who founded his namesake company Takeo Inc nine years ago and has grown it to include packaged food business offering more than 60 types of arthropod treats, from scorpions to tarantulas.

"Our aim is not for insects to be something separate, but to be enjoyed at the same table as vegetables, fish, and meat," said Saito.



Morocco's Women Rug Weavers Battle to Save Age-old Craft

Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
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Morocco's Women Rug Weavers Battle to Save Age-old Craft

Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP

In southern Morocco, women are the guardians of the age-old craft of carpet weaving, an intricate art form that often leaves them with meagre earnings.

Women like Ijja Benchri, who creates carpets on a wooden weaving loom outside her small home in the village of Taznakht, follows traditions going back many generations.

"I started when I was 11 or 12, imitating the women I saw weaving," said Benchri, 60.

Known for their bold geometric patterns and vibrant colors, the handwoven rugs are a fixture in local markets and a favorite among tourists.

In 2022, traditional carpets accounted for nearly 22 percent of the kingdom's artisan exports, according to government data, AFP reported.

The mountain villages around Taznakht are famous for their Ait Ouaouzguite carpets, named after a native Amazigh tribe, one among a grouping of several communities indigenous to North Africa long referred to as Berbers.

The carpets are woven by the women on small traditional looms, either at home or in specialised workshops.

They are then categorized into various styles, depending on their region of origin and their designs.

Some of Morocco's finest rugs are crafted from high-quality sheep wool in Jbel Sirwa just south of the Atlas Mountains, and dyed using natural pigments from plants like henna, pomegranate peels, or indigo.

Though industrial dyes have replaced natural ones for most weavers because they are cheaper and can be produced more quickly.

"This tradition has been handed down for centuries, from mothers to daughters," said Safia Imnoutres, who leads a local women's weaving cooperative.

She was one of the women showcasing their creations at a recent festival in Taznakht dedicated to safeguarding the heritage.

- 'Comes from within' -

Creating a single carpet can take two to four weeks depending on its size, said Benchri, speaking in Tamazight, the community's language recognized as an official language alongside Arabic in Morocco.

"I choose the colors as I go, according to my feelings," she added.

Imnoutres also described the process as "instinctive", guided by emotion rather than a predetermined design.

"Weaving is an expression of the women's feelings, when they are joyful, when they are melancholic," she added. "It's an art that comes from within."

But beyond its artistic value, weaving is a vital source of income.

Every Thursday, many travel to a weekly market to sell their rugs, often to middlemen who set the prices.

On average, a large rug sells for just 250 Moroccan dirhams (around $24), with its final price later raking astronomical profits.

In cities like Marrakech, some 250 kilometres (160 miles) north of Taznakht, they are sold in bazaars for up to ten times the original price.

Other rugs are listed at up to $6,000 on online platforms.

"We earn very little," said Benchri. "The intermediaries decide the price, and we have no choice but to accept it because this is our livelihood."

These diminishing returns, she added, have contributed to making the craft less attractive for younger women and jeopardising the handcraft tradition.

Additionally, the influx of cheaper, machine-made rugs has deepened competition.

To address these challenges, a new exhibition space in Taznakht allows some weavers to sell their work directly to buyers, cutting out middlemen.

The center also tries to open new avenues for these women to sell their products independently through courses in digital marketing.

"If this heritage isn't made financially viable, we risk losing it," Imnoutres warned.