Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
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Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)

Heady scents fill the air as skilled pickers in India pluck white jasmine before the still fresh buds are rushed for processing into a valuable ingredient for global perfumes.

Jasmine only issues its powerful scent when it blooms at night, and pickers must select only the ones yet to open.

"We know which one to pick," said Malarkodi, who gave only one name, as she snapped her fingers carefully to pluck the buds, tucking into her hair a few flowers that had already bloomed.

"There is no use of these... but I like the smell," she said.

Jasmine's fragrant flowers have been used for millennia in India and the scent is a key part of world-famous perfumes.

In the ancient city of Madurai in southern India, jasmine is omnipresent -- attracting buyers from some of the world's most recognizable perfumes, including J'adore by Dior and Mon Guerlain by Guerlain.

"It is one of the most expensive oils in the world," said Raja Palaniswamy, a director of Jasmine Concrete, which squeezes vast quantities of jasmine to create a few precious drops of delicious-smelling essence.

The women picking the buds earn around $1.50 a day per day for about four to five kilograms -- with each kilogram made up of around 4,000 buds.

Once picked, the jasmine is rushed to market, selling for anything between 200 and 2,000 rupees ($2.40-$24) a kilogram on special days.

The jasmine of Madurai, an Asian variety with the scientific name Jasminum sambac, was given a "geographical indication" tag from the World Intellectual Property Organization in 2013, which noted its "deep fragrance".

"It is lush, it is rich, it is vibrant," said Thierry Wasser, perfumer and "nose" at French beauty house Guerlain, speaking to AFP while visiting the jasmine operators.

The jasmine in Madurai has a "smoothness... and something floral which is immutable," Wasser added. Wasser sources the jasmine oil he uses from Palaniswamy's company.

As well as Guerlain, Palaniswamy said his company sells jasmine oil to companies including Bulgari, Dior and Lush.

'Real fragrance'

The process to extract the oil requires long hours of labor.

The women who pluck the jasmine -- be it for their deity, weddings, funerals or expensive perfumes -- have no time to romance its appeal.

In a jasmine field on the outskirts of the ancient city, women tenderly move the branches of the bush, looking for the perfect bud.

The processing factory runs around the clock in harvest season, with workers raking out fresh-picked flowers and waiting for the oblong-shaped buds to bloom.

"The minute it starts blooming, it starts emitting its fragrance," Palaniswamy said.

Late in the night, as the jasmine's sweet scent fills the air, workers collect the blooms and load them into extractors.

The freshly picked jasmine is immersed in a solvent to absorb the fragrance molecules to give a waxy extract called concrete.

The concrete is further processed with alcohol to remove the waxes carefully, which then results in a potent absolute. This absolute becomes the ingredient in perfumes.

Around 700 kilograms of fresh jasmine is reduced to just one kilogram of oil, selling for around $4,200, Palaniswamy said.

But Amsavalli Karuppuswamy, who runs a stall outside the flower market where she threads flowers into garlands, said the fresh jasmine will always outweigh any oil.

"I will continue to do this job till I die... women like jasmine, so that is why we are doing this," she said.

"The scents are not worth as much as the original jasmine flowers -- nothing can match the real fragrance of the jasmine."



Pharrell Williams is Named a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador

US rapper, producer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams gives a speech after receiving the diploma as UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Arts, Education and Entrepreneurship, at the UNESCO headquarters, in Paris on December 17, 2024. (Photo by STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / AFP)
US rapper, producer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams gives a speech after receiving the diploma as UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Arts, Education and Entrepreneurship, at the UNESCO headquarters, in Paris on December 17, 2024. (Photo by STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / AFP)
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Pharrell Williams is Named a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador

US rapper, producer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams gives a speech after receiving the diploma as UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Arts, Education and Entrepreneurship, at the UNESCO headquarters, in Paris on December 17, 2024. (Photo by STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / AFP)
US rapper, producer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams gives a speech after receiving the diploma as UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Arts, Education and Entrepreneurship, at the UNESCO headquarters, in Paris on December 17, 2024. (Photo by STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / AFP)

Pop star and fashion designer Pharrell Williams was named UNESCO’s goodwill ambassador for artistic education and entrepreneurship on Tuesday in Paris, continuing his cultural dominance of the French capital as Louis Vuitton menswear artistic director and performer at Notre Dame Cathedral’s reopening earlier this month.
Williams said he hoped to “deepen that sense of unity and togetherness” in work that “evens the odds for marginalized communities.”
He also spoke about his impoverished youth, adding: “Growing up in Virginia, never in my wildest dreams did I think I would be given an opportunity like this one."
The role of goodwill ambassador for the Paris-based UN cultural agency involves promoting its initiatives that include protecting indigenous cultures, advancing education and health care for women, raising awareness about genocide prevention and safeguarding cultural heritage, The Associated Press reported.
The UN agency said Williams will be “a mentor and role model for young creators, particularly in Africa, where UNESCO supports the development of cultural industries.”
Williams joins a list of goodwill ambassadors that includes US jazz musician Herbie Hancock, Brazilian artist Vik Muniz and Japanese filmmaker Naomi Kawase.
Williams has been particularly visible in Paris this year. Shortly before the Paris Olympics, his role as Louis Vuitton menswear designer took center stage during a star-studded event at UNESCO’s headquarters. The show, celebrating the beauty of human skin, featured models wearing garments in shades representing the diverse hues of humanity.
UNESCO leaders hope that Williams' global influence and deep connections to fashion and music will draw fresh attention to the agency’s work.
Williams is American, and his selection as goodwill ambassador also may be highlighting the readmission of the United States to UNESCO last year.
The US exit under President Donald Trump cited alleged anti-Israel bias within the agency. The decision followed a 2011 decision by UNESCO to include Palestine as a member state, which led the US and Israel to cease financing for the agency.
The US return under President Joe Biden was marked by a flag-raising ceremony attended by US First Lady Jill Biden.