Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
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Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)

Heady scents fill the air as skilled pickers in India pluck white jasmine before the still fresh buds are rushed for processing into a valuable ingredient for global perfumes.

Jasmine only issues its powerful scent when it blooms at night, and pickers must select only the ones yet to open.

"We know which one to pick," said Malarkodi, who gave only one name, as she snapped her fingers carefully to pluck the buds, tucking into her hair a few flowers that had already bloomed.

"There is no use of these... but I like the smell," she said.

Jasmine's fragrant flowers have been used for millennia in India and the scent is a key part of world-famous perfumes.

In the ancient city of Madurai in southern India, jasmine is omnipresent -- attracting buyers from some of the world's most recognizable perfumes, including J'adore by Dior and Mon Guerlain by Guerlain.

"It is one of the most expensive oils in the world," said Raja Palaniswamy, a director of Jasmine Concrete, which squeezes vast quantities of jasmine to create a few precious drops of delicious-smelling essence.

The women picking the buds earn around $1.50 a day per day for about four to five kilograms -- with each kilogram made up of around 4,000 buds.

Once picked, the jasmine is rushed to market, selling for anything between 200 and 2,000 rupees ($2.40-$24) a kilogram on special days.

The jasmine of Madurai, an Asian variety with the scientific name Jasminum sambac, was given a "geographical indication" tag from the World Intellectual Property Organization in 2013, which noted its "deep fragrance".

"It is lush, it is rich, it is vibrant," said Thierry Wasser, perfumer and "nose" at French beauty house Guerlain, speaking to AFP while visiting the jasmine operators.

The jasmine in Madurai has a "smoothness... and something floral which is immutable," Wasser added. Wasser sources the jasmine oil he uses from Palaniswamy's company.

As well as Guerlain, Palaniswamy said his company sells jasmine oil to companies including Bulgari, Dior and Lush.

'Real fragrance'

The process to extract the oil requires long hours of labor.

The women who pluck the jasmine -- be it for their deity, weddings, funerals or expensive perfumes -- have no time to romance its appeal.

In a jasmine field on the outskirts of the ancient city, women tenderly move the branches of the bush, looking for the perfect bud.

The processing factory runs around the clock in harvest season, with workers raking out fresh-picked flowers and waiting for the oblong-shaped buds to bloom.

"The minute it starts blooming, it starts emitting its fragrance," Palaniswamy said.

Late in the night, as the jasmine's sweet scent fills the air, workers collect the blooms and load them into extractors.

The freshly picked jasmine is immersed in a solvent to absorb the fragrance molecules to give a waxy extract called concrete.

The concrete is further processed with alcohol to remove the waxes carefully, which then results in a potent absolute. This absolute becomes the ingredient in perfumes.

Around 700 kilograms of fresh jasmine is reduced to just one kilogram of oil, selling for around $4,200, Palaniswamy said.

But Amsavalli Karuppuswamy, who runs a stall outside the flower market where she threads flowers into garlands, said the fresh jasmine will always outweigh any oil.

"I will continue to do this job till I die... women like jasmine, so that is why we are doing this," she said.

"The scents are not worth as much as the original jasmine flowers -- nothing can match the real fragrance of the jasmine."



Morocco's Women Rug Weavers Battle to Save Age-old Craft

Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
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Morocco's Women Rug Weavers Battle to Save Age-old Craft

Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP
Women in southern Morocco have kept on the tradition of weaving carpets despite its meagre earnings - AFP

In southern Morocco, women are the guardians of the age-old craft of carpet weaving, an intricate art form that often leaves them with meagre earnings.

Women like Ijja Benchri, who creates carpets on a wooden weaving loom outside her small home in the village of Taznakht, follows traditions going back many generations.

"I started when I was 11 or 12, imitating the women I saw weaving," said Benchri, 60.

Known for their bold geometric patterns and vibrant colors, the handwoven rugs are a fixture in local markets and a favorite among tourists.

In 2022, traditional carpets accounted for nearly 22 percent of the kingdom's artisan exports, according to government data, AFP reported.

The mountain villages around Taznakht are famous for their Ait Ouaouzguite carpets, named after a native Amazigh tribe, one among a grouping of several communities indigenous to North Africa long referred to as Berbers.

The carpets are woven by the women on small traditional looms, either at home or in specialised workshops.

They are then categorized into various styles, depending on their region of origin and their designs.

Some of Morocco's finest rugs are crafted from high-quality sheep wool in Jbel Sirwa just south of the Atlas Mountains, and dyed using natural pigments from plants like henna, pomegranate peels, or indigo.

Though industrial dyes have replaced natural ones for most weavers because they are cheaper and can be produced more quickly.

"This tradition has been handed down for centuries, from mothers to daughters," said Safia Imnoutres, who leads a local women's weaving cooperative.

She was one of the women showcasing their creations at a recent festival in Taznakht dedicated to safeguarding the heritage.

- 'Comes from within' -

Creating a single carpet can take two to four weeks depending on its size, said Benchri, speaking in Tamazight, the community's language recognized as an official language alongside Arabic in Morocco.

"I choose the colors as I go, according to my feelings," she added.

Imnoutres also described the process as "instinctive", guided by emotion rather than a predetermined design.

"Weaving is an expression of the women's feelings, when they are joyful, when they are melancholic," she added. "It's an art that comes from within."

But beyond its artistic value, weaving is a vital source of income.

Every Thursday, many travel to a weekly market to sell their rugs, often to middlemen who set the prices.

On average, a large rug sells for just 250 Moroccan dirhams (around $24), with its final price later raking astronomical profits.

In cities like Marrakech, some 250 kilometres (160 miles) north of Taznakht, they are sold in bazaars for up to ten times the original price.

Other rugs are listed at up to $6,000 on online platforms.

"We earn very little," said Benchri. "The intermediaries decide the price, and we have no choice but to accept it because this is our livelihood."

These diminishing returns, she added, have contributed to making the craft less attractive for younger women and jeopardising the handcraft tradition.

Additionally, the influx of cheaper, machine-made rugs has deepened competition.

To address these challenges, a new exhibition space in Taznakht allows some weavers to sell their work directly to buyers, cutting out middlemen.

The center also tries to open new avenues for these women to sell their products independently through courses in digital marketing.

"If this heritage isn't made financially viable, we risk losing it," Imnoutres warned.