Who Invented Butter Chicken? Indian Judge to Rule on Dispute Over Global Favorite 

A freshly prepared butter chicken dish is placed on a table inside the Moti Mahal Delux restaurant in New Delhi, India, January 23, 2024. (Reuters)
A freshly prepared butter chicken dish is placed on a table inside the Moti Mahal Delux restaurant in New Delhi, India, January 23, 2024. (Reuters)
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Who Invented Butter Chicken? Indian Judge to Rule on Dispute Over Global Favorite 

A freshly prepared butter chicken dish is placed on a table inside the Moti Mahal Delux restaurant in New Delhi, India, January 23, 2024. (Reuters)
A freshly prepared butter chicken dish is placed on a table inside the Moti Mahal Delux restaurant in New Delhi, India, January 23, 2024. (Reuters)

Butter chicken - one of India's best-known dishes globally - is delicious and apparently also contentious, with two Indian restaurant chains doing battle in court over claims to its origins.

The lawsuit - which has become a hot topic in India - was brought by the family behind Moti Mahal, a famed Delhi restaurant brand that has counted late US President Richard Nixon and India's first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru among its guests.

It claims restaurant founder, Kundan Lal Gujral, created the curry in the 1930s when the restaurant first opened in Peshawar before it moved to Delhi. In a 2,752-page court filing it has sued rival chain Daryaganj, accusing it of falsely claiming to have invented the dish as well as dal makhani, a popular lentil dish that is also laden with butter and cream.

The Gujral family is seeking $240,000 in damages, also alleging that Daryaganj has copied the layout of Moti Mahal's website and "the look and feel" of its restaurants.

"You cannot take away somebody's legacy ... The dish was invented when our grandfather was in Pakistan," said Monish Gujral, managing director at Moti Mahal.

Daryaganj - which was established relatively recently in 2019 - counters that its late family member, Kundan Lal Jaggi, had partnered with Gujral to open the Delhi restaurant in 1947, and the dish was invented there. That gives it the right to also lay claim to the creation of the dish, it argues.

Daryaganj shared with Reuters a faded, hand-written partnership document registered in 1949 to back its argument.

The dispute has captured the nation's attention with Indian TV broadcasters running segments on the history of the dish and debate raging on social media.

"It's an offbeat, unique case. You really don't know who created the first dish of butter chicken. The court will be hard pressed and will need to rely on circumstantial evidence," said Ameet Datta, an intellectual property lawyer at India's Saikrishna & Associates.

Testimonies of people who can link the brand to the dish they consumed decades ago could be critical proof, Datta added.

Made with tandoor-cooked chicken pieces mixed in a tomato gravy with dollops of cream and butter, the dish was ranked 43rd in a list of world's "best dishes" by TasteAtlas as rated by nearly 400,000 users. It was the second-ranked Indian food after butter garlic naan bread. The two are often paired together.

The case was first heard by the Delhi High Court last week and the next hearing is scheduled for May.



Gaza Cultural Heritage Brought to Light in Geneva

This photograph shows a mosaic pavement (Byzantine period, 579 AD) collected in 1997 from the site of a vanished Byzantine church in Deir al-Balah in the Gaza Strip, displayed during an exhibition on the protection of cultural property in case of conflict entitled "Heritage in Peril", at the Art and History Museum in Geneva on October 3, 2024. (AFP)
This photograph shows a mosaic pavement (Byzantine period, 579 AD) collected in 1997 from the site of a vanished Byzantine church in Deir al-Balah in the Gaza Strip, displayed during an exhibition on the protection of cultural property in case of conflict entitled "Heritage in Peril", at the Art and History Museum in Geneva on October 3, 2024. (AFP)
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Gaza Cultural Heritage Brought to Light in Geneva

This photograph shows a mosaic pavement (Byzantine period, 579 AD) collected in 1997 from the site of a vanished Byzantine church in Deir al-Balah in the Gaza Strip, displayed during an exhibition on the protection of cultural property in case of conflict entitled "Heritage in Peril", at the Art and History Museum in Geneva on October 3, 2024. (AFP)
This photograph shows a mosaic pavement (Byzantine period, 579 AD) collected in 1997 from the site of a vanished Byzantine church in Deir al-Balah in the Gaza Strip, displayed during an exhibition on the protection of cultural property in case of conflict entitled "Heritage in Peril", at the Art and History Museum in Geneva on October 3, 2024. (AFP)

Archaeological treasures from the Gaza Strip are going on display in Geneva, with the Swiss city protecting the heritage of a territory devastated by a year of war.

Amphoras, statuettes, vases, oil lamps and figurines are among the 44 objects unearthed in Gaza going on show in the "Patrimony in Peril" exhibition at the Museum of Art and History (MAH).

"It's a part of Gaza's soul. Its identity, even," Beatrice Blandin, the exhibition's curator, told AFP. "Heritage is really the history of this strip of land, the history of the people who live there."

The artifacts are from a collection of more than 530 objects that have been stored in crates in a secure warehouse in Geneva since 2007, unable to return to Gaza.

The exhibition, which runs from Saturday until February 9, also includes artifacts from Sudan, Syria and Libya.

It was staged to mark the 70th anniversary of the 1954 Hague Convention for the Protection of Cultural Property in the Event of Armed Conflict.

The exhibition looks at the responsibility of museums in saving such property from damage, looting and conflict, reminding visitors that deliberately destroying heritage is a war crime.

- Cultural damage in Gaza -

"The forces of obscurantism understand that cultural property is what is at stake for civilization, because they have never stopped wanting to destroy this heritage, as in Mosul," said Geneva city councilor Alfonso Gomez -- a reference to the northern Iraqi city captured by the ISIS group in 2014.

MAH director Marc-Olivier Wahler told AFP: "Unfortunately, in the event of conflict, many aggressors attack cultural heritage because it is obviously erasing the identity of a people, erasing its history."

Thankfully, "there are museums, rules and conventions that protect this heritage".

Since Israel's offensive in Gaza began following the October 7, 2023 attack by Hamas, cultural sites in the Palestinian territory have paid a heavy price, says the United Nations' cultural organization.

UNESCO has verified damage to 69 sites: 10 religious sites, 43 buildings of historical and/or artistic interest, two depositories of movable cultural property, six monuments, one museum and seven archaeological sites.

- Stuck in Swiss warehouse -

At a time when Palestinian cultural heritage is "the victim of unprecedented destruction, the patrimonial value of the Gazan objects held in Geneva seems greater than ever", said the MAH.

Some of the objects belonged to the Palestinian Authority. The rest belonged to the Palestinian entrepreneur Jawdat Khoudary, but he later gave ownership of them to the PA in 2018.

These artifacts, evoking daily, civil and religious life from the Bronze Age to the Ottoman era, arrived in Geneva in 2006 to be shown at the "Gaza at the Crossroads of Civilizations" exhibition, inaugurated by Palestinian President Mahmud Abbas.

They had been meant to form the foundation of an archaeological museum to be built in Gaza.

Instead, they were stuck in Geneva for 17 years, the conditions for their safe return having never been met.

- Saved by circumstances -

"At the time when the objects were due to leave, Hamas took over the Gaza Strip and there were geopolitical tensions between Palestine and Israel," said Blandin.

This "coincidence of circumstances," she said, ultimately saved the artifacts: the rest of Khoudary's private collection, which remained in Gaza, has been "totally destroyed" since October 7 last year.

Following a new cooperation agreement signed last September between the Palestinian Authority and Geneva, the Swiss city has committed to looking after the artifacts for as long as necessary.

The MAH also served as a refuge, in 1939 when the Spanish Republicans evacuated by train the greatest treasures from the Museo del Prado in Madrid and several other major collections.

And last year, Geneva hosted an exhibition of Ukrainian works of art.

According to the Swiss Museums Association, Switzerland, along with counterparts in other countries, has also been able to help more than 200 museums in Ukraine preserve their collections after Russia's full-scale invasion in February 2022.