Emiratis Battle to Preserve Dying Art of Embroidery

An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
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Emiratis Battle to Preserve Dying Art of Embroidery

An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)

Far from Dubai's glitzy towers, Mariam al-Kalbani's henna-dyed fingers weave brightly colored threads in a skill she hopes young Emirati women watching her can preserve for the future.

The art of hand-weaving braided shiny ribbons to adorn traditional clothing and bags is called Al Talli, and is on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

But with the relentless pace of change in the United Arab Emirates, its days may be numbered.

"It's a craft of our ancestors and our people," Kalbani told AFP in Al Ain, the UAE's fourth largest city, which sits between mountains and the desert.

"If we do not take initiative and introduce it to them, it will disappear."

The 70-year-old craftswoman, wearing a traditional black abaya robe and golden face covering, has been training students and apprentices in the art for 15 years.

"The goal is to revive the heritage for the next generation," she said.

She emphasized that mastering Al Talli doesn't happen "in a couple of hours -- it could take a year or two, especially if training is done just once a week".

Kalbani has been weaving Al Talli since she was a teenager.

The simplest Al Talli designs are made from six threads -- although they can number up to 50 -- and mastering the process of combining them with beads, ornaments and precious metals such as gold can take a long time.

'Rare and special'

Accounting student Reem al-Ketbi watched Kalbani intently as she worked on a round cushion called a Mousadah, weaving a silver thread back and forth during a recent handicrafts festival.

"Every time I see Al Talli, I remember the Emirati identity -- it's something rare and special," said the 23-year-old, who began learning the craft last year while also pursuing her studies.

No precise information on Al Talli's origins exists.

But Mohamed Hassan Abdel Hafez, a cultural heritage expert at the Sharjah Institute for Heritage, said it has been passed down through multiple generations, "at least from grandparents to grandchildren", in line with UNESCO's listing requirements.

"In the field of intangible cultural heritage, it is very difficult to determine the exact date or when it historically began," he said.

However, the UAE authorities are working to preserve traditions that date from before the development of the oil industry in the country.

Kalbani laments that her own daughters did not take up the craft, but smiled as her three-year-old granddaughter beside her asked questions about the braids and threads.

Al Talli was not the only tradition being highlighted at the Crafts and Traditional Industries Festival.

At the main square in Al Ain, American Katie Gaimer watched men performing the traditional Ayalah dance, wielding bamboo sticks or unloaded rifles to the rhythm of folk songs.

The 35-year-old teacher said she and her friends had just enjoyed an Al Talli workshop, where they had a free lesson on how to make bracelets.

"It kind of felt like we were making friendship bracelets... it was fun and it was nice to learn from somebody teaching it in a traditional way," she said.

'Worth preserving'

Elsewhere, women produced various items including Sadu fabric, which is used for tents, carpets and camel saddles, and is also listed by UNESCO.

Aisha al-Dhaheri, who works to promote traditional crafts at the Department of Culture and Tourism in Abu Dhabi, said authorities hope to support Al Talli by licensing certified experts to expand production and teaching.

"It's considered at risk of disappearance, so we tried to expedite preservation efforts by organizing training courses," she said.

Accounting student Ketbi believes that young women these days "are not very interested" in learning craft techniques from long ago.

But she still considers preserving them worthwhile "out of love for the country".

At one shop in the festival area, octogenarian Kulthum al-Mansouri sold bags, incense burners, bracelets, necklaces, medals and key chains -- all adorned with Al Talli which she herself braided under the eyes of passers-by.

She said she felt saddened that young women seem less interested in Al Talli than ever, distracted as they were "by screens and phones".

But she still hoped the skill could be passed on because her generation cannot maintain it forever.

"For how long do we have left to live?" she said.



Heavy Rains Damage Historic Buildings, Forts in Yemen

Unprecedented rains have hit parts of Yemen this season. (EPA)
Unprecedented rains have hit parts of Yemen this season. (EPA)
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Heavy Rains Damage Historic Buildings, Forts in Yemen

Unprecedented rains have hit parts of Yemen this season. (EPA)
Unprecedented rains have hit parts of Yemen this season. (EPA)

Recent heavy rains have caused significant damage in cities and villages controlled by the Houthi group in Yemen.

Historic forts and ancient buildings have been affected, with homes collapsing in Sanaa, its outskirts, and in the governorates of Raymah, Amran, Al-Bayda, and Hodeidah.

Flooding has particularly impacted the Bustan al-Sultan and Harqan neighborhoods in the UNESCO-listed city of Sanaa.

Sources have accused the Iran-backed Houthis of neglecting the disaster and ignoring residents’ calls for help, while they instead focused on their annual sectarian celebrations.

The Houthi-controlled “Historical Cities Preservation Authority” issued urgent warnings about historic buildings at risk of collapse in the old city in Sanaa and elsewhere. They reported that an ancient palace in an old neighborhood is near collapse.

In rural Sanaa, local sources told Asharq Al-Awsat that the historic Haraz fort has partially collapsed due to the rains. The fort is one of Yemen’s oldest.

The Raymah governorate has also suffered, with recent floods causing around eight deaths and destroying over 400 homes, including ancient buildings. Parts of the historic Zalamlam Mountain Castle have collapsed from the rain.

The Yemen Meteorological and Early Warning Center predicted that heavy thunderstorms, including hail and strong winds, will continue for the next 72 hours.

This weather is expected to impact highlands, slopes, and western coastal areas from Saada in the north to Taiz, Al-Daleh, and Lahj in the south.

The weather forecast predicted continued rainfall, including thunderstorms and strong winds, over parts of Al-Mahra, Hadramawt, Shabwa, Abyan, Marib, and Al-Jawf.

The center also expected strong winds to stir up dust and sand in the Socotra Archipelago, southern coasts, and areas affected by thunderstorms.

It advised people to stay away from valleys, flood-prone areas, and muddy roads. It warned to avoid electrical poles, billboards, and trees, and to turn off mobile phones during storms.