Iran's Vast Collection of Western Art, Much Long Hidden, Re-Emerges Despite High Tensions With US

A woman walks past a portrait of the leader of the American Indian Movement Russell Means, right, by American artist Andy Warhol, as she visits an exhibition titled Eye to Eye which showcases over 120 works by modern world artists as well as Iranian painters at Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, in Tehran, Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Vahid Salemi)
A woman walks past a portrait of the leader of the American Indian Movement Russell Means, right, by American artist Andy Warhol, as she visits an exhibition titled Eye to Eye which showcases over 120 works by modern world artists as well as Iranian painters at Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, in Tehran, Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Vahid Salemi)
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Iran's Vast Collection of Western Art, Much Long Hidden, Re-Emerges Despite High Tensions With US

A woman walks past a portrait of the leader of the American Indian Movement Russell Means, right, by American artist Andy Warhol, as she visits an exhibition titled Eye to Eye which showcases over 120 works by modern world artists as well as Iranian painters at Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, in Tehran, Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Vahid Salemi)
A woman walks past a portrait of the leader of the American Indian Movement Russell Means, right, by American artist Andy Warhol, as she visits an exhibition titled Eye to Eye which showcases over 120 works by modern world artists as well as Iranian painters at Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, in Tehran, Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Vahid Salemi)

As Iran faces increasing tensions with the West and turmoil at home, a new exhibition at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art is displaying Western artwork including pieces not seen by the public in at least a decade.
The unveiling of the exhibition “Eye to Eye” has drawn numerous women, their hair uncovered, to the underground galleries of the museum in Tehran's Laleh Park. Their presence, while unacknowledged by authorities, shows the way life has changed inside Iran just in the last few years even as the country's theocracy presses forward with enriching uranium to near-weapons grade levels and launching attacks on Israel during the ongoing Mideast wars, The Associated Press said.
“The first feeling that came to me, and I told my parents, was that I can’t believe I’m seeing these works, which have always been kept far from our eyes,” said Aida Zarrin, a young woman at the museum.
“If such events are held here and we can see artworks like the rest of the world, it’s enough. They are really precious.”
The government of Iran’s Western-backed shah, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, and his wife, the former Empress Farah Pahlavi, built the museum and acquired the vast collection in the late 1970s, when oil boomed and Western economies stagnated. Upon opening, it showed sensational works by Pablo Picasso, Mark Rothko, Claude Monet, Jackson Pollock and other heavyweights, enhancing Iran’s cultural standing on the world stage.
But just two years later, in 1979, Shiite clerics ousted the shah and packed away the art in the museum’s vault. Some paintings — cubist, surrealist, impressionist and even pop art — sat untouched for decades to avoid offending Islamic values and the appearance of catering to Western sensibilities. Nearly everything is believed still to be there, though an Andy Warhol print of the empress was slashed during the revolution.
Today, the collection is likely worth billions of dollars. Even with Iran now cash-strapped under Western sanctions, officials with the museum have been able to advocate for keeping the collection, though there have been occasional trades in the past for items from Persian history. Those sanctions may increase under the next administration of US President-elect Donald Trump.
As Iranian politics have thawed, re-frozen and thawed again, the collection resurfaces along with those changes.
Among the over 120 works being shown are ones from Picasso, Andy Warhol and Francis Bacon, along with celebrated Iranian artists. One of the Warhols, “Jacqueline Kennedy II,” is a silkscreen double image of the former US first lady in mourning after the 1963 assassination of her husband, President John Kennedy. Another Warhol portrait of Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger also garnered attention from the cellphone photo snappers.
“A lot of these works are important works in the history of art, and that’s why this show distinguishes itself from others,” said Jamal Arabzadeh, the exhibition's curator. ”A lot of people with less exposure to art have discovered the museum for the first time. ... We are seeing a part of the community that are discovering art and the museum and see the potential of this place, and this is something to be proud of.”
The presence of Western art comes as Iran's government has long fought against items like Barbie dolls and depictions of cartoon characters from “The Simpsons.” Such Western influences have been deemed un-Islamic in the past and have been seen as part of a “soft” cultural war against Iran.
With a ticket costing the equivalent of 14 US cents, the exhibition offers a rare government-sanctioned event not involving the country's politics or Shiite religion.
Among the visitors were many women defying the country's mandatory headscarf, or hijab, law. Crackdowns over the hijab have slowed down after Iran's presidential election in July that elected reformist President Masoud Pezeshkian, though individual cases of arrest continue to draw anger.
And for many, the cost of tickets to travel abroad given Iran's collapsing rial currency keep foreign museums out of reach.
“This is very attractive for art enthusiasts because not everyone can go and see museums abroad. It’s extremely exciting to see the works here,” said a woman who only gave her last name, Dolatshahi. “I had no idea I could see works by van Gogh and Picasso here.”



Makkah’s Neighborhoods Enliven Ramadan Nights with Games, Humanitarian Initiatives

 People engage in activities during Ramadan celebrations in Makkah. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
People engage in activities during Ramadan celebrations in Makkah. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
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Makkah’s Neighborhoods Enliven Ramadan Nights with Games, Humanitarian Initiatives

 People engage in activities during Ramadan celebrations in Makkah. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
People engage in activities during Ramadan celebrations in Makkah. (Asharq Al-Awsat)

Year after year, young residents of Makkah’s neighborhoods—particularly those surrounding the Grand Mosque—gain experience in organizing Ramadan celebrations, turning these efforts into more than just local initiatives.

What once were independent gatherings in each district have evolved into collective events, blending entertainment with social and humanitarian services in a single space.

As soon as Ramadan is announced, many neighborhoods in Makkah embark on their seasonal race to decorate streets, set up recreational equipment, and organize sports activities.

The planning begins a month prior, with community elders and youth selecting suitable locations in advance. These chosen sites, well-known to residents and even nearby neighborhoods, become vibrant meeting points, drawing people together to celebrate the holy month.

Youth-led initiatives are bringing back the spirit of traditional neighborhoods, creating Ramadan gatherings that blend heritage with modernity.

These events, launched under various names, foster a sense of community while promoting social and humanitarian values.

What sets them apart is their expansion beyond individual districts, transforming local celebrations into broader, inclusive experiences. Each night, these gatherings extend for more than four hours after Taraweeh prayers, filling the streets with festive energy.

Organizers have set clear social objectives, leveraging traditional community gatherings to offer a diverse range of activities.

Residents engage in billiards, table tennis, foosball, video games, and sports, such as volleyball and football.

Cultural initiatives also play a central role, with organizers partnering with charities to host special events.

A designated day is set for honoring various organizations—such as orphan care and disability support associations—allowing their members to participate in all available activities and reinforcing the spirit of solidarity and inclusion.

Some neighborhoods in Makkah have incorporated daily Ramadan iftar gatherings into their community service programs, offering meals not only to residents but also to visitors.

Meanwhile, local centers—such as Al-Hamra district—are organizing cultural events and competitions to enliven Ramadan nights. Special programs are being held for pilgrims near the Grand Mosque, with activities presented in multiple languages to accommodate the diverse crowd.

Ramadan nights in Makkah stand apart from those in any other city, shaped by its sacred status. The city is referenced in the Quran by 11 names, including Al-Balad Al-Ameen (the Secure City), Umm Al-Qura (the Mother of Cities), and Al-Haram Al-Amin (the Safe Sanctuary).

The influx of more than two million pilgrims throughout the holy month keeps the city bustling around the clock, adding to the vibrancy of these local gatherings, which draw visitors at various times and further enhance the significance of these events near the Grand Mosque.

These community-driven celebrations rely on collective efforts, according to Abbadi Al-Mutrafi, an activities organizer in the Al-Malawi district.

Speaking to Asharq Al-Awsat, he said the goal is to keep residents engaged within their own neighborhoods rather than seeking entertainment elsewhere.

“We offer a variety of activities throughout Ramadan, including both traditional and electronic games,” he explained.

Organizer Hadi Al-Hamazi noted to Asharq Al-Awsat that each year brings new elements to the festivities.

“We assess past successes and challenges to refine the programs, ensuring each edition offers fresh cultural and entertainment activities. Our aim is to cater to all segments of the local community—from youth and teenagers to the elderly,” he said.