Pharrell Williams Takes over Paris for Fashion Debut

Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
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Pharrell Williams Takes over Paris for Fashion Debut

Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP

Some of the most historic parts of Paris are being cordoned off on Tuesday for the first catwalk show by US superstar Pharrell Williams in his new role as artistic director for Louis Vuitton.

The singer-producer is adding to his repertoire as he takes over menswear collections for the world's most lucrative brand, which made more than 20 billion euros ($22 billion) in revenue last year, AFP said.

His debut is the hottest ticket of the season, due late at night on the oldest standing bridge in the French capital, the Pont Neuf, with guests set to view the catwalk from boats on the Seine.

A whole stretch of the riverbank is being cordoned off -- from the bridge up to the Concorde plaza -- from the early afternoon, a police source told AFP.

Guests received their elaborate invitations on Monday -- a sort of mini-stained glass window featuring a sunset over the bridge that suggests yellow will be a dominant color, in keeping with the singer's "Happy" vibes.

He told the New York Times this week that the theme is "lovers".

"I was appointed to rule in this position," he told the newspaper. "But a ruler of this position for me is a perpetual student. It's what I intend to be."

'Sells culture'

"We can expect a commercial hit -- it's not just one of the most highly anticipated collections of fashion week but a very significant moment in fashion history," said Alexandre Samson, of Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera.

Many labels have moved away from the big-name designers of the past like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, preferring more discreet professionals.

But Louis Vuitton is going the other way, putting a full-blown celebrity in charge.

It follows its last show in January when a performance by Spanish pop superstar Rosalia was almost more of a focus than the clothes on the runway.

It is "consistent with LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault's idea that Louis Vuitton does not sell handbags but sells culture", said bank HSBC in a briefing note.

"The nomination is obviously not just relevant for menswear... but targeted for a greater halo effect that could resonate to all core lines of the brand."

The 50-year-old Williams nonetheless faces a major challenge filling the shoes of Virgil Abloh, the former Kanye West sidekick who breathed new streetwear-infused life into Louis Vuitton prior to his tragically early death from cancer in 2021.

But he has long been a red carpet sensation, known for daring outfits that go far beyond the usual hip-hop stylings, and a string of collaborations with Chanel, Moncler and Tiffany -- as well as Louis Vuitton.

"Pharrell has always been ahead of clothing trends, in terms of music as well... it will be interesting to see how he uses his flair for innovative artistic projects," said Pierre Alexandre M'Pele, editor of GQ France.



Chinese Plus-size Influencer Spreads Body Positivity through Fashion

This photo taken on November 14, 2024 shows plus-size clothing brand owner and influencer Amanda Yao live-streaming from her workshop in Guangzhou, in China's southern Guangdong province. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP)
This photo taken on November 14, 2024 shows plus-size clothing brand owner and influencer Amanda Yao live-streaming from her workshop in Guangzhou, in China's southern Guangdong province. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP)
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Chinese Plus-size Influencer Spreads Body Positivity through Fashion

This photo taken on November 14, 2024 shows plus-size clothing brand owner and influencer Amanda Yao live-streaming from her workshop in Guangzhou, in China's southern Guangdong province. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP)
This photo taken on November 14, 2024 shows plus-size clothing brand owner and influencer Amanda Yao live-streaming from her workshop in Guangzhou, in China's southern Guangdong province. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP)

Surrounded by racks of colorful dresses and blazers in China's manufacturing hub of Guangzhou, plus-size clothing brand owner and influencer Amanda Yao is on a mission to promote body positivity.

She is part of a small but growing number of women in China challenging restrictive beauty standards, including thinness, pale skin and childlike features.

Online, a frequently circulated saying claims that "there are no good women over 50 kilograms (110 pounds)", while recent social media challenges have women squeezing into children's clothes or showing off the coins they can stack on their collarbones.

Yao makes fashionable, high-end clothing for plus-size women, offering a vibrant contrast to the poorly cut offerings normally available in "slimming" dark colors.

"I want my customers to have clothes that express who they are inside, rather than soulless pieces that exist only to make them look thinner," the 35-year-old told AFP.

When it comes to clothing, most Chinese retailers focus on smaller sizes and "think that larger people don't need fashion and don't need beautiful clothes", Yao said.

"But we have work, we have families, we have respectable lives, and we also need some fancy clothes sometimes."

To promote her online store, Yao posts pictures of her outfits on the Instagram-like Xiaohongshu app, often sporting leggings and tight-fitting workout tops she wears to climb the hills near her office.

"Reject body anxiety," Yao, who openly talks about weighing 100 kilograms, wrote in one post to her more than 15,000 followers.

"So what if I wear a strappy top and have big arms?"

- Embracing color -

Yao began selling plus-size clothing four years ago after returning to China from the United Kingdom, where she had worked for several years.

"I found it especially hard to buy clothing here," she told AFP.

Items ordered online often failed to match sellers' photos, and Yao grew sick of "very ugly clothes".

In her Guangzhou office and showroom this month, Yao showed off a Chinese-style pink silk jacket from her brand Yue Design, while modelling a bright green cardigan and skirt set.

"I never post photos of myself wearing black online," Yao said.

By avoiding the color traditionally recommended for larger women, she has also encouraged some of her customers to embrace brighter, more cheerful designs.

While clothing options for plus-size shoppers remain limited, some Chinese brands have taken steps to be more inclusive in recent years.

Lingerie brand Neiwai and loungewear company An Action A Day have featured larger models in their ads, though most of their items only cater to women up to 70 kilograms.

- Body scrutiny -

Aside from Yao, other influencers in China have found an audience eager for their posts about self-acceptance and photos of themselves enjoying clothing and food, despite the pressure to diet.

On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag "reject body anxiety" appears in nearly 200,000 posts.

But this is still a marked deviation from most body image content on Chinese social media.

One recent popular format involves someone posting a photo of themselves and asking viewers for makeover tips.

These posts often draw extreme scrutiny from commenters, who pick on people for flaws as specific as having a square jaw rather than the "ideal" pointed chin.

With constant exposure to idealized body types, people "start to conflate the meaning of their own worth with what they look like," Stephanie Ng, who runs Hong Kong-based mental health organization Body Banter, told AFP.

That has dangerous consequences, including extreme dieting and eating disorders, Ng said.

There is little official data on eating disorders in China, but the prominent Shanghai Mental Health Center reported an increase from eight such patients in 2002 to 3,000 in 2021, according to state broadcaster CGTN.

Even though Yao has built a loyal following, her posts can also attract cruel comments.

"Daring to post an ugly photo showing your ring-shaped torso fat doesn't equal confidence," one commenter wrote under one of Yao's workout posts.

She told AFP that the criticism has only made her more determined.

"I want to help women who are feeling self-hatred to look at themselves in a new way," she said.