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Couture Week Comes to Paris amid Riot Fears

From Schiaparelli's show in July 2022. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP/File
From Schiaparelli's show in July 2022. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP/File
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Couture Week Comes to Paris amid Riot Fears

From Schiaparelli's show in July 2022. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP/File
From Schiaparelli's show in July 2022. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP/File

The fashion world is on edge as haute couture week kicks off on Monday in Paris, which has seen nights of violent riots over the police killing of a teenager.
French label Celine canceled its menswear show -- scheduled outside the official calendar -- on Sunday due to the riots, with designer Hedi Slimane saying it was "inconsiderate" to hold a fashion show when Paris was "bereaved and bruised".
Hundreds have been arrested across the country as mostly young protesters have torched cars and attacked infrastructure following the death of 17-year-old Nahel M., who was shot dead when he tried to flee a traffic stop on Tuesday.
Violence appeared to be ebbing somewhat in and around the French capital over the weekend, and the haute couture shows -- celebrating the most expensive, tailor-made end of fashion -- were due to go ahead as planned, the French fashion federation told AFP on Sunday.
First up is Schiaparelli, with fashionistas wondering if it can beat the social media meltdown caused by last season's fake animal heads.
The heads, sported by the likes of Kylie Jenner, were another publicity coup for Schiaparelli artistic director Daniel Roseberry, who has overseen a revamp of the brand and attracted the likes of Lady Gaga and Beyonce as clients.
Animal activists seemed unsure what to think.
The US branch of PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) called the heads "fabulously innovative", while PETA's French branch said a thought should be spared for the silkworms and sheep "who have really suffered".
Couture week will see first-time appearances by the United States' Thom Browne and France's Charles de Vilmorin alongside regulars like Christian Dior.
De Vilmorin, just 26, will present for his own brand after a short-lived tenure as artistic director of Rochas.
"I'm super happy to have lived through all this and to do my first show," he told AFP in his apartment-workshop last week while finalizing the collection.
Fellow couturier Stephane Rolland is presenting his latest collection, dedicated to legendary singer Maria Callas, at the Opera Garnier.
It will be filmed by veteran French director Claude Lelouch for his next movie.
Rolland said it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.
"It's very important in our profession. I find that from time to time it lacks a bit of refinement. Money is not everything," he told AFP.

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Fashion

Adidas Holds Back on Profit Upgrade Due to Tariff Uncertainty 

The logo of Adidas is seen on a Gazelle sneaker for sale at a shop in Berlin, Germany, May 2, 2024. (Reuters)
The logo of Adidas is seen on a Gazelle sneaker for sale at a shop in Berlin, Germany, May 2, 2024. (Reuters)
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Adidas Holds Back on Profit Upgrade Due to Tariff Uncertainty 

The logo of Adidas is seen on a Gazelle sneaker for sale at a shop in Berlin, Germany, May 2, 2024. (Reuters)
The logo of Adidas is seen on a Gazelle sneaker for sale at a shop in Berlin, Germany, May 2, 2024. (Reuters)

German sportswear maker Adidas on Tuesday said higher US import tariffs and broader uncertainty around trade were clouding its forecasts and making it difficult to plan.

CEO Bjorn Gulden said the company would have hiked its revenue and profit guidance for 2025 after strong first-quarter results, but tariff uncertainty meant it decided to hold back.

Adidas expects the blanket increase in US tariffs to eventually cause price increases across all its products, but said it was currently impossible to quantify those or to establish the likely impact on US consumer demand, highlighting the paralysis caused by trade uncertainty.

Adidas has already reduced exports of China-made goods to the US to a minimum but is still "somewhat exposed" to much higher US tariffs on Chinese goods, Gulden said, though it is unclear how long those might remain at the current level.

"Given the uncertainty around the negotiations between the US and the different exporting countries, we do not know what the final tariffs will be. Therefore, we cannot make any 'final' decisions on what to do," Gulden said.

Unexpectedly high US tariffs on Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam and Indonesia, announced at the start of this month, but paused until July, blindsided sportswear brands, which make most of their sneakers and clothing there.

As tariffs raise the cost of doing business, Adidas said it would strive to ensure US retail partners and consumers get product "at the best possible price", adding it would try to compensate for uncertainty in the US by boosting its performance in the rest of the world.

First-quarter sales rose 14% in Europe and 13% in Greater China and were up 26% in Latin America. Sales in North America increased just 3%, which Adidas said was due to the phase-out of its Yeezy sneaker line.

While sticking to its full-year guidance, Adidas said uncertainties "could put negative pressure on this later in the year".