Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
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Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

From an absurdly opulent film shoot at the Opera Garnier to a Chanel catwalk along the Seine, fashion week offered a very different view of Paris on Tuesday from the riots of recent days.

The country is still licking its wounds and facing up to the deep societal divisions exposed by days of violence sparked a week ago by the police killing of a teenager, said AFP.

The riots have died down since the weekend, and it was the other France -- of unbridled luxury, craftsmanship and conspicuous excess -- that took center-stage on the second day of haute couture week.

Chanel's models paraded alongside the River Seine with the Eiffel Tower in the background, some with little dogs or baskets of flowers, in a show of "sophistication and simplicity," said designer Virginie Viard.

She mixed tweeds, silk muslins, organzas and encrusted lace with floral and graphic motifs. A few bright colors, including Barbie pink, stood out against a largely grey palette.
Over at the Opera Garnier, the 19th-century monument to late-imperial excess, couturier Stephane Rolland put on a fabulously opulent show that was also being filmed by veteran filmmaker Claude Lelouch for his next movie, "Finalement".
There was a strapless velvet dress with a glittering diamond hood, an elaborate headpiece that looked like a mass of gold flames, and a long red satin dress with a bejewelled collar.

The show was an homage to Greek singer Maria Callas, whose voice was heard through the show, aimed at reliving one of her most legendary performances at the Opera Garnier in December 1958.

Rolland is known for bright colors, such as the bright-yellow dress in which he put singer Pretty Yende for the coronation of King Charles III recently.

But he said "in the heart of the Palais Garnier, I didn't want to disturb the scenery with pinks, yellows and greens" and stuck mostly to black, white and a few flashes of deep red.
Actors mingled with the guests for the upcoming movie from Lelouch, best-known for his Oscar-winning 1966 film "A Man and a Woman".

The director's request to film during the show was "like a gift from heaven," Rolland told AFP, adding that it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.

"It's very important in our profession. I find that from time to time it lacks a bit of refinement. Money is not everything," he said.
Also showing on Tuesday was French designer Alexis Mabille, who created a female take on the tuxedo.

And there was another luxurious display from Giorgio Armani, all sumptuous ballgowns adorned with many variations on poppies and roses.

Red was a dominant color for the Italian -- even for the wedding dress at the end.



Gucci Owner Kering Drops 12% as Luxury Braces for Tough Winter

The logo of French luxury group Kering is pictured on the day of the Kering General Assembly meeting at the company's headquarters in Paris, France, May 28. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is pictured on the day of the Kering General Assembly meeting at the company's headquarters in Paris, France, May 28. (Reuters)
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Gucci Owner Kering Drops 12% as Luxury Braces for Tough Winter

The logo of French luxury group Kering is pictured on the day of the Kering General Assembly meeting at the company's headquarters in Paris, France, May 28. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is pictured on the day of the Kering General Assembly meeting at the company's headquarters in Paris, France, May 28. (Reuters)

Shares in Gucci owner Kering tumbled 12% on Friday after the group reported further sales declines, but said it would stick with CEO Luca de Meo's turnaround plan and accelerate store closures, aiming for 125 by year-end.

The recovery long promised by luxury brands seems nowhere in sight, as the expansion of war ‌in the Middle ‌East, along with China's tax crackdown on ‌the ⁠wealthy, piled further ⁠pressure on the world's biggest luxury conglomerates in the third quarter, and executives buckled in for a tough winter.

Riots in Paris, leaving Louis Vuitton shop windows smashed and electric-bike bonfires near luxury shopping hub Place Vendome, threw into sharp relief the political risk faced by luxury brands not just abroad but also ⁠at home.

Shares in LVMH and Hermes were ‌also down 1% to 1.5% on ‌Friday, as crude prices hit their highest level since early May, worsening ‌the squeeze on households that has curbed consumers' ability to ‌splurge on handbags and clothes.

Gucci's decline has continued despite de Meo's plan to make the brand's prices more enticing to middle-class consumers and creative director Demna's new collections hitting stores.

"The progress made on ‌improving brand desirability remains in its very early stages," JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini said in a ⁠note. Gucci ⁠sales improved in wholesale, but were down 6% overall as fewer shoppers visited its stores.

While Kering struggles to execute a turnaround against a weak economic backdrop, even high-end Hermes is showing signs of slowing, with its ready-to-wear division falling 2% in the third quarter due to weak Chinese demand. Overall, Hermes reported its weakest quarterly sales growth since 2020.

Across the sector, valuations have taken a beating as investors reassess future growth prospects. After a 40% slide in share price since January 1, Hermes' valuation is its lowest since 2014, while LVMH's is at a 10-year low.


UK's Debenhams Returns to Profit after Five Years, Expects Further Cost Cuts

FILE PHOTO: Debenhams logo is seen on smartphone in front of a displayed Boohoo logo in this illustration taken January 25, 2021. REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Debenhams logo is seen on smartphone in front of a displayed Boohoo logo in this illustration taken January 25, 2021. REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration/File Photo
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UK's Debenhams Returns to Profit after Five Years, Expects Further Cost Cuts

FILE PHOTO: Debenhams logo is seen on smartphone in front of a displayed Boohoo logo in this illustration taken January 25, 2021. REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Debenhams logo is seen on smartphone in front of a displayed Boohoo logo in this illustration taken January 25, 2021. REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration/File Photo

British fashion ‌retailer Debenhams , also known as boohoo, reported a profit for the first time in five years on Friday and expects further cost cuts as a turnaround plan gathers pace, said Reuters.

Here are some more details:

-The company reported pretax profit of £28.3 million ($37.89 million) for the six ‌months ended August ‌31, compared to a ‌loss ⁠of £17.9 million a year ⁠ago, its first profit before tax since August 2021.

-Expects to reduce costs related to depreciation, lease and interest in fiscal year 2028, while a new financial ⁠facility should further cut costs.

-Debt ‌to be ‌negligible by the end of the ‌year thanks to the disposal of ‌Sheffield automation and lease assignment and sale of Nasty Gal brand, the retailer said.

-The company reported steady growth ‌in September and reiterated its previous annual forecast of gross merchandise value (GMV) ⁠growth ⁠and adjusted core profit no less than £59 million.

-It expects to deliver more than £100 million in profit before tax in the medium term and become a multi-billion-pound GMV business.

-The group's turnaround plan has been focused on streamlining its operations to tackle mounting debt and slow demand at its youth brands.

 


Gucci's Sales Drop 5% in 3rd Quarter as Weak Chinese Demand Dampens Turnaround Hopes

FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 25, 2026. REUTERS/Claudia Greco/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 25, 2026. REUTERS/Claudia Greco/File Photo
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Gucci's Sales Drop 5% in 3rd Quarter as Weak Chinese Demand Dampens Turnaround Hopes

FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 25, 2026. REUTERS/Claudia Greco/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 25, 2026. REUTERS/Claudia Greco/File Photo

Kering on Thursday said sales at its flagship label Gucci fell by 6% in the third quarter, in line with market expectations, as low store traffic in China weighed on the Italian brand's performance, Reuters reported.

Sales at Gucci, which accounts for roughly half of group profits, were down to €1.29 billion ($1.44 billion) in the quarter, Kering said, while total group ⁠revenues fell by ⁠1% when adjusted for currency swings.

Asked by journalists on a call if returning to overall growth was still the aim for Kering this year, finance chief Armelle Poulou declined ⁠to comment, pointing to the publication of full-year results.

Store footfall remains the main problem at Gucci, whose sales have been declining for more than three straight years. Revenues from the brand's own store network were down 9%, Kering said, while wholesale and licensing revenues were up.

Lower-than-expected quarterly sales at peers ⁠LVMH and ⁠Hermes, and signs of cooling demand in the US have added to investors' concerns around Kering's turnaround.

"We keep on carrying out our plan with the utmost discipline,” Poulou said, adding the group has so far reduced its retail network by 105 stores and was targeting 125 closures by the end of the year.