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JCPenney is Spending $1 Billion on Store and Online Upgrades in Latest Bid to Revive Its Business

The JCPenney sign lights up the entrance to a store in Frisco, Texas, Wednesday, Aug. 30, 2023. LM Otero/AP
The JCPenney sign lights up the entrance to a store in Frisco, Texas, Wednesday, Aug. 30, 2023. LM Otero/AP
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JCPenney is Spending $1 Billion on Store and Online Upgrades in Latest Bid to Revive Its Business

The JCPenney sign lights up the entrance to a store in Frisco, Texas, Wednesday, Aug. 30, 2023. LM Otero/AP
The JCPenney sign lights up the entrance to a store in Frisco, Texas, Wednesday, Aug. 30, 2023. LM Otero/AP

JCPenney said Thursday it plans to spend more than $1 billion by the end of 2025 in a bid to revive the storied but troubled 121-year-old department store chain.
The money is going toward remodeling JCPenney stores, upgrading its online shopping site and app, and making its supply network more efficient so that online orders are delivered more quickly.
JCPenney’s CEO Marc Rosen, who took the company’s helm in November 2021 and has served as an executive at Levi Strauss and Walmart, is renewing the chain’s focus on its core middle-income shoppers with affordable fashion and housewares.
“Now is the time more than ever to lean into that and make sure that we’re delivering that experience for our customer,” Rosen said in an interview with The Associated Press. That’s a change of tactics from previous management teams that pursued wealthier shoppers with offers of trendy items and major appliances.
As part of the plans unveiled Thursday, check-out stations that had been located throughout JCPenney's stores will be replaced with a single area of cashiers. Shoppers will also see brighter lighting and a fresh coat of paint. Store employees will be equipped with mobile devices to scan inventory and ring up shoppers' purchases. And the chain is making upgrades to its Wi-Fi networks to speed up in-store connections.
But JCPenney is playing catch-up with its competitors — from discounters to department stores like Macy’s and Walmart — that have been upgrading their stores and online businesses, underscoring the challenges faced by the retailer based in Plano, Texas.
JCPenney, which emerged from Chapter 11 reorganization in December 2020 with new owners, not only has grappled with years of internal issues but also faces an uncertain economy that has challenged healthier department stores.
The chain's core customers are budget-conscious families, whose median income ranges from $50,000 to $75,000. They've been particularly hit hard by higher costs of basic items and high interest rates, making borrowing on credit cards and taking out a mortgage more expensive.
Rosen said JCPenney's customers are spending $700 more per month than two years ago just for basic necessities, like rent, gas and food. He noted they're seeking competitive prices as well as a good shopping experience.
But in this tough economy, JCPenney has a role, Rosen said. He believes shoppers are finding other department stores too expensive, while online retailers and off-price stores don't give them the customer service JCPenney shoppers are looking for.
The company filed for bankruptcy reorganization in May 2020 after the pandemic-induced temporary closing of stores put the already struggling retailer deeper in peril.
Under new owners — mall companies Simon Property Group Inc. and Brookfield Property Partners LP — JCPenney shuttered nearly a quarter of its 850 stores. It now has roughly 650 stores. It has less than $500 million in debt, down from nearly $5 billion at the time of its bankruptcy filing, Rosen said.
As part of the latest remodeling push, Rosen said 100 stores have been refurbished. The plan is to remodel anywhere from 50 to 100 per year, he said.
The retailer has been rebuilding its beauty business after Sephora announced a deal to leave the chain for rival Kohl's three years ago. As part of its overhaul, it has been highlighting beauty products that cover a wider range of skin tones. One third of its customers are of color.
The retailer launched new store label brands like Mutual Weave men’s clothing and reintroduced some national brands like Adidas. It launched national labels such as Forever 21, owned by Authentic Brands Group LLC, which has a minority stake in JCPenney. It also teamed up with celebrity stylist Jason Bolden to recreate collections for two of its store label brands, J. Ferrar and Worthington, a long-time brand it brought back.
Most importantly, Rosen said JCPenney has worked hard to keep the basics like jeans, white-T-shirts, and sheet sets in stock with the full size range or full color assortment, a problem that has plagued the chain and frustrated shoppers.
Rosen said the changes have helped increase the number of repeat visits of existing customers to both stores and online. More than 50 million customers have visited JCPenney in the past three years, he said. After about five years of declines, it’s now seeing customers coming to JCPenney more frequently — a 5% increase. As for its beauty departments,25% are new customers, he noted.
“That's showing us that if we get the basic relevant experience right, then they’re going to come to us more frequently because they know the brand, they’re shopping for us already and they’re now starting to shop across more areas of the store and come more frequently, ” he said.
Rosen arrived at JCPenney when its annual revenue was around $8 billion to $9 billion and that number was unchanged last year. He expects it could decline slightly this year because of all the economic uncertainty. It had annual sales of roughly $11.2 billion when it filed for bankruptcy.
Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData Retail, said he was recently at a JCPenney store in Phoenix, and the stores looked messy, and there were gaps on shelves. But he did praise the beauty area.
“They may have steadied the ship, but they have not revived the brand,” he said.

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Fashion

The Olympics Are Coming to the Capital of Fashion. Expect Uniforms Befitting a Paris Runway

This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
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The Olympics Are Coming to the Capital of Fashion. Expect Uniforms Befitting a Paris Runway

This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)

Sure, they call it the City of Light. But Paris is also the City of Fashion, one of most influential fashion capitals of the world for decades, no, centuries (remember Louis XIV?)

So it’s no surprise that fashion designers across the globe are busy getting their national team uniforms ready for their unique spotlight. When it comes to high-end Olympic fashion — be it for Friday's festive opening ceremonies, or for competition — all runways lead to Paris.

Stella Jean will be there, styling each of Haiti’s dozen or so athletes herself. Jean, an Italian-Haitian designer based in Rome, figures she has exactly two seconds, on opening ceremony night, to make an impression on the world — an impression that may reverberate for years. “For these athletes, it’s a victory just to be here,” says Jean, whose vivid, colorful design is intended to highlight the cultural vitality of the Caribbean nation.

On the other end of the size (and budget) spectrum is Ralph Lauren, who will outfit hundreds of athletes of the US team at opening and closing ceremonies, for the ninth time. Lauren, who's presenting a casual look of blue jeans and blazers, is of course one of the world’s richest designers, along with Giorgio Armani, who has been designing Italy’s uniforms since 2012.

Countless other designers have gotten involved — including, this year, more young, “indie” labels eager to make a splash. It’s also a chance to emphasize qualities such as sustainability in fashion and adaptability, too, as in designs for the Paralympics.

“Designers and manufacturers now realize this can be a huge platform for them, for many things,” says Alison Brown, who co-hosts a podcast on all things Olympics, “Keep the Flame Alive.” For example: “Sustainability is a huge buzzword now for this whole Olympics,” she says.

And so is style — because, well, Paris.

“You always want to represent your country, and you want to represent the athletes. But it seems like this time, the pressure to do it well has been turned up a notch,” Brown says.

Some emerging details on various uniform designs:

Canada: A focus on inclusivity, adaptability During the design process, the team from Lululemon, outfitting Canada’s athletes for the second time, says they listened carefully to the athletes, and how they felt in the clothes. “When you feel your best, you perform your best,” says Audrey Reilly, creative director for Team Canada at the athletic apparel company.

She recalls listening to Alison Levine, a Paralympian who uses a wheelchair, and learning the athlete had nothing suitable to train in — so she wore medical scrubs.

“I was shocked that a professional athlete had to do that,” Reilly said in an interview. So we said, “Let’s investigate.” One result was a “seated carpenter pant,” part of a collection intended to be inclusive and adaptable. Other features include special closures to facilitate putting on and taking off garments, and pockets at the knees so an athlete like Levine can access her phone when training.

The collection covers all aspects of Team Canada’s journey, from travel to the games, to opening and medal ceremonies, to training — everything except competition. To combat the expected searing Paris heat, Lululemon, which has a four-Games deal with the team, paid special attention to ventilation and wicking.

And for opening ceremonies, designers created what they call a “tapestry of pride.” Hand-drawn and engineered into the fabric, it includes 10 animals — nine representing the provinces of Canada and one representing France. “We wanted to evoke all of Canada, coast to coast and north to south,” Reilly says.

Haiti: “They know their bodies are a flag” Stella Jean is used to designing beautiful clothes. But beauty for beauty’s sake was not a consideration in her designs for Haiti’s team. It was all about the message.

“This will be the first good news coming out of Haiti in at least the last three years,” she says, the athletes' appearance a counter-message to news about political turmoil, poverty or natural disasters. “So, I felt the responsibility to say as much as I can about the country."

For that, Jean is collaborating with Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, whose vibrant painting will be incorporated into the ceremonial uniforms — a brightly hued skirt for women and pants for men, paired with traditional items like a chambray shirt. The designs have been constructed from “leftover” fabric — sustainability, yes, but not because it is trendy, says Jean, but because in Haiti it’s both a tradition and a necessity.

Jean calls the Haitian athletes “ambassadors.”

“These ambassadors will be there, in Paris,” she says, "and they all know, even if they are very, very young, how important their presence is — and that it’s not just about performance. They know their bodies are a flag."

USA: “Nothing says America like blue jeans” For the last summer games in steamy Tokyo, Ralph Lauren outfitted athletes with something cool — literally — a technology that directed heat away through a fan device at the back of the neck.

For steamy Paris, he’s introducing another type of cool: good old American jeans.

“Nothing says America like blue jeans, especially when we’re in Paris,” said David Lauren, the label’s chief branding and innovation officer and the founder’s son, upon revealing the design in June.

For its ninth turn dressing Team USA for opening and closing ceremonies, Ralph Lauren says it will be fitting each athlete personally. For the opening ceremony they’ll be wearing tailored navy blazers with blue-and-white striped Oxford shirts — and those blue jeans.

For the closing ceremony, the team will wear white jeans with matching jackets in red, white and blue. Lauren called the closing ceremony looks “more graphic, more fun, a little more exciting.”

Mexico: A unisex approach, melding tradition with modern flair Marijose Rivera was chosen as designer of the Mexican ceremony uniform after an internal contest in her company, Haber Holding. To land her project, the 26-year-old designer devoted weeks to sketching.

“We’re not always what we’ve shown the world ... we are much more than that,” Rivera said from Mexico City. “I wanted to represent Mexico as something different, something avant-garde, fashionable, but without neglecting what we are (in) culture and tradition.”

Her designs are unisex, featuring a casual overshirt, or shirt jacket, with accents of vibrant “rosa mexicano” (Mexican pink) over the shoulders, collar, sleeve and pocket flap. “We want to break paradigms not only in terms of design but also in this sense that pink is not only for girls,” said Rivera.

On the back of the jackets is a sketch of the Mexican monument Angel de la Independencia, also known as Victoria Alada (Winged Victory), located in Mexico City and the epicenter of many national celebrations. The sleeves feature prints representing “milagritos,” or artisanal amulets.

The milagritos “are a little piece of all of us for the athletes,” Rivera said, “to let them know that although we're on the other side of the world, we are supporting them, and we are very proud to see them there."

India: Mixing old and new Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani is known for his ability to meld traditional elements with a modern sensibility. And that's what he and his menswear brand Tasva has tried to do for his country’s Olympic team.

Tahiliani told GQ India that when he began doing research for India’s opening ceremony uniform, he noted a trend of countries incorporating their national flags into the design. So he began working on a design featuring the tricolor hues of saffron, white and green.

For men, Tahiliani began with a kurta, the typical Asian long and loose shirt. He paired that with a bundi, or traditional sleeveless jacket. He told the magazine he wears a bundi every day, inspired by his father, who was an admiral in the Indian navy.

After feedback from the Olympic committee, the designer moved away from a uniform-like look for women, opting for a sari, which he says “can flatter any body type, and that’s exactly what we want for our female athletes.”

All the designs incorporate embroidery of saffron and green. “The goal is to create outfits that empower our athletes to represent India with pride and confidence,” Tahiliani said.

Italy: A mix of elegance and tradition Italian athletes will be elegantly attired in Emporio Armani uniforms, as they have for every Olympics since 2012.

The podium tracksuit is emblazoned with “W Italia,” shorthand for “Eviva Italia,” or, “Long live Italy.” The motto could extend to designer Giorgio Armani himself, who turned 90 on July 11.

“Seeking new solutions for the athlete’s kit, which must blend elegance with practicality, is always an exciting challenge for me,″ Armani said last year when the national kit was presented at the Spring-Summer 2024 runway show for the youthful and sporty Emporio Armani brand.

The athletes’ tracksuits are in Armani blue, which has long been the color of the designer’s daily uniform, either as a T-shirt or fine pullover.

Athletes will have no excuse for not knowing the national anthem: the beginning is printed inside the collar of the polo shirts, and the entire first verse is inside the jackets.

Britain: Four nations, not one The 60-year old British clothing brand Ben Sherman, known for its menswear, is creating Britain’s Olympic uniforms for the third time, and this year wants to remind the world that Britain is four nations, not one.

Its design for the opening and closing ceremonies “represents the unity and diversity of the UK, reflecting the rich tapestry of our nation’s identity.” says the label’s creative director, Mark Williams.

Williams described in an email his new four-nation floral motif, featuring a rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock, serving as “a nod to the unique identities and histories of England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.”

Williams stresses the motif is not purely decorative, but meant to send a message of collaboration and unity. His floral motif appears is in colors of blue and red — on polo shirts, worn with a bomber jacket, and also on colorful socks, in a collaboration with the Happy Socks brand.

South Korea: Inspiration from a national symbol South Korea’s athletes will sport uniforms inspired by the country’s national “taegeuk” circular symbol, which occupies the center of its flag. The red-and-blue circle connotes harmony between the negative cosmic forces of the blue portion and the positive cosmic forces of the red.

The motifs on the North Face-branded uniforms also include one of the four black trigrams (groups of bars) from the flag’s corners, according to Youngone Outdoor Co., an official partner of the country’s Olympic committee which produces and distributes North Face clothing in South Korea. The trigram being used symbolizes water.

A uniform for medal ceremonies features a jacket depicting the indigo blue waters off the country’s east coast in an ink-wash painting style, a red belt and black pants, Youngone says.

Team Korea’s uniform for opening and closing ceremonies was designed by Musinsa Standard, a private-label brand run by South Korean online fashion store Musinsa. The all-light blue uniform includes a blazer, its lining engraved with traditional white and blue porcelain designs, a traditional-style belt and slacks.