Brazilian Indigenous Women Use Fashion to Showcase their Claim to Rights

An Indigenous woman presents a creation from Indigenous designers during a fashion event at the third March of Indigenous Women, in defense of women's rights, local Indigenous people and the environment in Brasilia, Brazil September 12, 2023. REUTERS/Adriano Machado
An Indigenous woman presents a creation from Indigenous designers during a fashion event at the third March of Indigenous Women, in defense of women's rights, local Indigenous people and the environment in Brasilia, Brazil September 12, 2023. REUTERS/Adriano Machado
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Brazilian Indigenous Women Use Fashion to Showcase their Claim to Rights

An Indigenous woman presents a creation from Indigenous designers during a fashion event at the third March of Indigenous Women, in defense of women's rights, local Indigenous people and the environment in Brasilia, Brazil September 12, 2023. REUTERS/Adriano Machado
An Indigenous woman presents a creation from Indigenous designers during a fashion event at the third March of Indigenous Women, in defense of women's rights, local Indigenous people and the environment in Brasilia, Brazil September 12, 2023. REUTERS/Adriano Machado

Indigenous women in Brazil’s capital Brasilia showcased their creations during a fashion event as part of the Third March of Indigenous Women to claim women’s rights and the demarcation of Indigenous lands.

Under a huge white marquee, models in headdresses, necklaces and traditional attire strutted along a catwalk lined with green foliage to the cheers of a couple of hundred onlookers, many of whom had their smartphones out to share the event on social networks, The Associated Press reported.

Kajina Maneira da Costa, from the Nukini people in Acre state, near the border with Peru, said she was nervous before taking to the stage, but was proud to be representing her people.

“There still exists a lot of prejudice. It’s not normal to see an Indigenous fashion show,” the 19-year-old said.

Kitted out in a bright yellow dress and headdress, Célia Xakriabá, a federal lawmaker from the south-eastern state of Minas Gerais, said on stage that the event was about “decolonizing fashion.”

“Today we showed the power of our creation in clothing ... our headdresses and our ancestry. We participate in politics when we sing and parade,” Xakriabá added later in a post on Instagram.

Xakriabá was voted in during last year’s October elections, at the same time as Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva defeated far-right incumbent Jair Bolsonaro.

Since taking office in January, Lula has given significantly more attention to the demands of Indigenous peoples than his predecessor. Bolsonaro opposed Indigenous rights, refused to expand Indigenous territories and had a record of statements critics called racist.

In Lula’s third, non-consecutive term, eight Indigenous territories have been demarcated, and he created the country’s first Ministry of Indigenous Peoples, headed by Indigenous woman Sonia Guajajara.

Indigenous women are increasingly center stage on Brazil’s political scene, and even within their communities. The Third March of Indigenous Women, which took place from Sept. 11 to 13, is a testament to their growing movement.

“Indigenous men had visibility, but now women are adding their strength to the defense of their territory too,” said Ana Paula da Silva, a researcher at Rio de Janeiro State University’s Indigenous peoples study program.

“They are marching to say ‘we are here’ and it’s no longer possible to keep ignoring us,” she added.



Dior Triumphs Melding Women’s Past and Future, While Saint Laurent Puts on Study in Power Dressing

A model wears a creation for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 26, 2023 in Paris. (AP)
A model wears a creation for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 26, 2023 in Paris. (AP)
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Dior Triumphs Melding Women’s Past and Future, While Saint Laurent Puts on Study in Power Dressing

A model wears a creation for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 26, 2023 in Paris. (AP)
A model wears a creation for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 26, 2023 in Paris. (AP)

Amid the electric ambiance of strobe lights and an usually sweltering Parisian fall, Dior’s show Tuesday set in the Tuileries gardens witnessed a dazzling circus of stars. With Hollywood’s recent writers’ strike still on, insiders mused if Paris Fashion Week would be the season’s celebrity magnet – and the presence of Jennifer Lawrence, Charlize Theron, Elizabeth Debicki, and Kim Jisoo seemed to echo that sentiment.

But the real star this season was the collection itself. Never one to shy away from a statement on feminism, the Italian couturier Maria Grazia Chiuri crafted an unusually subtle collection in predominantly black and white that fused echoes of the medieval and contemporary. Set against an art backdrop challenging time-worn perceptions on women's roles, this show was not only a reminder that fashion is a mirror of society – but among her most accomplished so far.

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear shows in Paris, including Saint Laurent’s starry study in power dressing.

Dior’s juxtaposition of eras

The atmosphere was charged with palpable anticipation. But even more electric was Chiuri’s dance between the medieval and the 80s punk – the former, an era of chivalry and legends, the latter, an age of defiant self-expression.

The first looks to grace the runway were what might be called “gamine gothic.” The garments, draped in a play of black with cascading tassels, bore dynamic clumps of silk that crafted a silhouette both historic and undeniably fresh. But fashion, much like history, is cyclical, and soon this dark romanticism gave way to stark white interpretations. The result? A nod to the rebellious 80s, evoking memories of punk rockers and their spirited defiance.

But Chiuri didn’t stop at mere clothing. The accessories — from contemporary neck chokers to sometimes-bejeweled leg bands that one might associate with armor — added layers of intrigue. And just when insiders thought that they’d seen the collection’s pièce de resistance, Chiuri surprised with an audacious take: a medieval-inspired bikini in stark black.

While the designs borrowed elements from historical eras, they also encapsulated the spirit and journey of the contemporary woman. The ash and chamomile tones, paired with the evocative use of fabrics, served as metaphors for strength, defiance, and progression.

One gown, with its black medieval lace motif adorning the bust, bore an uncanny resemblance to the head of a charging bull, symbolizing, perhaps, the undying spirit and tenacity of the women Chiuri designs for.

While the couturier’s previous efforts to infuse designs with feminist commentary have sometimes seemed forced, this season finally towed the line between message and subtlety.

Dior’s feminist foray: Chiuri’s runway shines in Tuileries Gardens

Chiuri is steadily gaining renown as perhaps the most politically engaged designer heading up a European fashion powerhouse. In an industry fixated on fleeting aesthetics, Chiuri’s emphasis on deep-rooted feminist activism sets her apart. Tuesday’s show stands as testimony to this.

Chiuri often fuses art with fashion through collaborations with avant-garde artists. Tuesday saw the dynamic Elena Bellantoni taking center stage. Together, the duo unveiled a monumental video installation at the Tuileries Gardens, turning the annex into a glowing canvas of feminist fervor. Towering 7-meter-high LED screens pulsed with vivid yellows and fuchsias, reminiscent of highlighters underscoring vital messages – and used by secretaries the world over. Iconography and cheeky slogans, provoked thought while inciting VIPs to capture the moment.

Powerful Saint Laurent show steals the night

“It’s like a fashion shoot,” exclaimed Kate Moss, standing arm in arm with Demi Moore, as flashes lit up the scene beneath the Eiffel Tower. This star-studded Tuesday evening was not just about celebrity allure; it was a powerful testament to house founder Yves Saint Laurent ’s enduring mission of empowering women.

Designer Anthony Vaccarello channeled the audacious spirit of boundary-breakers like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, offering a collection that oozed authority and elegance.

The 70s safari-inspired ensembles, from khaki trenches to strong shoulders, reinforced this message of strength — and sometimes, aggression. Amplifying this stance was a soundtrack reminiscent of The Godfather’s.

Black head caps paired with trailing 70s scarves, flashy oversized earrings, and armfuls of gold bracelets conveyed unbridled opulence.

The collection’s pieces, whether showcasing “powerful” upturned collars or dominant spike heels, were a study in power dressing.

With earthy tones of olive, maroon, and sand playing out in fabrics like cotton and linen, the balance between strength and elegance was maintained throughout.

Baz Luhrmann, accompanied by his “Elvis” actor Austin Butler, and other luminaries watched as Vaccarello’s vision unfolded, integrating elements from the masculine that were feminine in spirit.

Peter Do’s Parisian parade: A testament to craft

When most of Paris Fashion Week revels in razzle-dazzle, one designer chose to let his clothes take the spotlight sans the spectacle. Enter Peter Do, the New York prodigy who, with his Paris debut, redefined modern minimalism and returned the focus to pure design.

A palette dominated by neutrals with unexpected bursts of lipstick red set the tone, while the clothes themselves spoke understated luxury. Whether it was a filmy deconstructed trench coat, a ribbed turtleneck with detachable sleeves, or those impeccably tailored trousers, every piece was crafted.

It’s not just the clothes, but Do’s entire philosophy that stands out. This spirit was evident in this collection, where traditional boundaries seemed blurred and clothing, irrespective of gender labels, made a powerful statement.

And as the curtains fell at the Palais de Tokyo, the audience was sent an unusually brief but impactful message in the show notes: “This season, we want our work to speak for itself. Love, The Peter Do Team.”

Vaquera’s sartorial commentary on stardom!

Vaquera’s was a vivid portrayal of the celebrity phenomenon. The inaugural look featured a model draped in a see-through fishnet body stocking, her gaze masked by sunglasses, conjuring images of a star evading paparazzi, highlighting the allure and its invasiveness of fame.

Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, themselves ironically donning eye-shielding A-lister sunglasses, tapped into the theme of ceaseless scrutiny in an era of omnipresent cameras. Their designs were a reflection on celebrity and the fashion industry that amplifies, and at times, shields it.

Vaquera, known for challenging conventions, didn’t disappoint. A dramatically oversized white parachute shirt was paired with a surreal 4-meter striped tie. In a world where every celebrity move is amplified, the brand explored if attire could ever be too grand or statement-making. The designs further examined the notion of exposure, with pieces revealing bra straps and undergarments.


H&M Blames Warm Weather for September Sales Slide

01 April 2020, Hamburg: The logo of the H&M fashion chain hangs above the entrance of the department store in downtown Hamburg. (dpa)
01 April 2020, Hamburg: The logo of the H&M fashion chain hangs above the entrance of the department store in downtown Hamburg. (dpa)
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H&M Blames Warm Weather for September Sales Slide

01 April 2020, Hamburg: The logo of the H&M fashion chain hangs above the entrance of the department store in downtown Hamburg. (dpa)
01 April 2020, Hamburg: The logo of the H&M fashion chain hangs above the entrance of the department store in downtown Hamburg. (dpa)

H&M said unusually hot weather in many of its European markets had delayed the start of the autumn shopping season, sending sales lower in September, while cost cuts helped the fashion retailer's quarterly profit rise.

H&M, whose biggest rival is Zara owner Inditex, said September sales would be down 10% year-on-year measured in local currencies. That compares with Inditex reporting sales between Aug. 1 and Sept. 11 that were up 14%.

The decline deals a blow to hopes the world's second-biggest fashion retailer is turning its performance around after lagging behind Inditex, as a cost-of-living crisis curbs shoppers' spending.

"If the sales at your competitor basically go up by 14% with the same weather, that tells you something, to my mind," said Vera Diehl, portfolio manager at Union Investment, which holds shares in both H&M and Inditex.

Operating profit in the June-August period, the Swedish group's third quarter, was 4.74 billion crowns ($430.7 million) against a year-earlier 902 million. Analysts polled by LSEG had on average forecast a 4.72 billion crown profit.

The year-ago figure included a one-off cost of 2.1 billion crowns for the group's exit from Russia, which also accounted for four percentage points of the 10% September sales decline, H&M said.

The company stuck to its goal of increasing operating margin to 10% by the end of next year, and said its cost-cutting program was continuing "at full speed".

The margin target is "challenging but achievable," Barclays analyst Nicolas Champ said, adding that it would, however, require some acceleration in top-line growth.

H&M also said it had this month returned to JD.com, one of China's biggest e-commerce marketplaces, after a prolonged absence due to criticism over its stance on alleged human rights abuses in China's Xinjiang region.

It returned to Alibaba's Tmall e-commerce platform last year, but has not been available on JD.com since 2021.

H&M announced a share buyback program starting on Wednesday, planning to buy back up to 3 billion crowns of stock by March 31 next year.


UK Fashion Retailer ASOS Expects Profit at Low End of Guidance as Overhaul Falters 

 Smartphone with ASOS app, a keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
Smartphone with ASOS app, a keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
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UK Fashion Retailer ASOS Expects Profit at Low End of Guidance as Overhaul Falters 

 Smartphone with ASOS app, a keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
Smartphone with ASOS app, a keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)

British online fashion retailer ASOS reported a 15% fall in fourth quarter sales and forecast earnings around the bottom of its guided range but said it was making progress with its turnaround plan.

The group, led by CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte, announced an overhaul of its business model last October after the economic downturn and operational problems hammered its profits and its shares.

Already down by 38% over the last year, they fell another 1% in early trading on Tuesday.

Rivals Primark, Next and JD Sports Fashion have all reported positive updates this month, while official data showed UK retail sales rose in August.

Ramos Calamonte's strategy is to prioritize profit over top-line growth by reducing the amount of stock ASOS carries, cutting costs and improving its cash position.

ASOS said the fourth quarter sales decline was in line with guidance, with a stronger start to the period followed by a weaker performance in July and August.

But its second half adjusted gross margin fell 50 basis points short of its guidance of a 200 basis points improvement as it increased promotions.

Consequently second half earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) were expected to be towards the bottom of the previously guided 40 million to 60 million pounds ($49-$73 million) range with free cash inflow 90 million pounds below expectations, due to what it said were timing effects that would soon reverse.

"We have reduced our stock balance by circa 30%, significantly improved the core profitability of the business and generated cash against a very challenging market backdrop," Ramos Calamonte said.

Prior to the update, analysts on average forecast a full year to Sept. 3 adjusted loss before interest and tax of 24 million pounds, versus earnings of 44.1 million pounds in 2021/22.

ASOS's fourth quarter sales were down 16% in the UK, down 7% in the European Union and down 19% in the United States.

Mike Ashley's Frasers Group has built an 18.3% stake in ASOS.


Giorgio Armani Offers Soft, Fluid Looks at Milan Fashion Week

A model walks the runway of the Giorgio Armani show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Giorgio Armani show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
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Giorgio Armani Offers Soft, Fluid Looks at Milan Fashion Week

A model walks the runway of the Giorgio Armani show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Giorgio Armani show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)

Italian designer Giorgio Armani presented soft, fluid looks at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, offering plenty of lightness and shimmer for women's wardrobes next summer.
The 89-year-old fashion veteran opened the show, called "Vibes", with a champagne satin jacket and satin grey trousers. Several outfits with the same color combination followed - cropped shirts, jackets and strapless dresses over trousers, Reuters reported.
Satin trousers featured heavily in the Spring/Summer 2024 line, often paired with sheer blouses, light jackets and sparkling tops.
Wave patterns adorned jackets, belts and shaped crop tops as well as buttons.
"Vibrations - that means colors, movement, a structure that moves on the body, that's the inspiration,″ Armani told reporters backstage.
For the evening, there were plenty of shimmering looks - sparkling tops, skirts and trousers, the last of which were white.
Models, whose hair was styled wavy, clutched small sparkling bags and wore flat shoes.
The colors shifted from champagne and grey to blues, greens and pale pinks.


All Black and White Looks Rule Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk in Milan

 A model walks the runway of the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 23, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 23, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
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All Black and White Looks Rule Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk in Milan

 A model walks the runway of the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 23, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 23, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)

Italian luxury label Dolce & Gabbana presented a mainly black and white collection at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday, deconstructing tuxedos to present an array of dresses and suits for women next spring.

The show, simply called "Woman", opened with a dark pinstripe jacket and hot pants worn with stockings. Asymmetrical black chiffon polka dot dresses followed, with many designs bearing bows tied at the neck.

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana dressed models in see-through black lace dresses and black jackets worn with micro shorts. Trouser suits were slim and cropped at the ankle.

The designer duo played with tuxedo styles, cropping jackets or turning them into one-shouldered dresses.

Some outfits bore white collars or details from white tuxedo shirts. A selection of all white suits, jackets and lace dresses also featured in the spring/summer 2024 collection, as did dabs of leopard print on shiny macs and dresses.

Dolce and Gabbana embellished their outfits with bows, ruffles and floral embroidery.

Models carried small handbags and wore stilettos or flat thigh-high black boots.

Milan Fashion Week, where the likes of industry heavyweights Giorgio Armani, Versace, Gucci and Prada present their collections, ends on Monday.


Checkerboard Reigns on Versace Catwalk at Milan Fashion Week

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace women's Spring Summer 2024 collection presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 22, 2023. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Versace women's Spring Summer 2024 collection presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 22, 2023. (AP)
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Checkerboard Reigns on Versace Catwalk at Milan Fashion Week

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace women's Spring Summer 2024 collection presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 22, 2023. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Versace women's Spring Summer 2024 collection presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 22, 2023. (AP)

Checkerboard dominated Versace's catwalk at Milan Fashion Week, with designer Donatella Versace serving up the print on dresses and suits for women's wardrobes next spring.

Models wore collarless jackets and short feminine dresses in pastel colors, as well as boxy satin jackets paired with billowy shorts in Friday night's show.

There were also denim outfits, skirt suits in darker black and white tones as well as shiny evening dresses.

Accessories consisted of flat ballerina shoes and hair bows.

In show notes, the designer described her Spring/Summer 2024 line as “fresh and graphic".

"This is a Versace summer with color and shine, tailoring and soft draping," she said. "This collection is joyful and sharp."

Famous fashion faces including models Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Claudia Schiffer featured in the show. Milan Fashion Week runs until Monday.


New Designer De Sarno Showcases Minimalist Glamour for Gucci Debut

 A model walks the runway of the Gucci fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Gucci fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
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New Designer De Sarno Showcases Minimalist Glamour for Gucci Debut

 A model walks the runway of the Gucci fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway of the Gucci fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)

Gucci's new creative director Sabato De Sarno sent out a glamorous, skin-baring lineup of minimalist designs for his first fashion show on Friday, a highly anticipated debut which owner Kering hopes will help revive sales at its flagship brand.

Models filed down a darkened, concrete runway at the label's Milan headquarters, a former aircraft factory, parading short shorts paired with suit jackets, jewel-encrusted garments and tank tops with plunging neck lines.

Friday's catwalk presentation serves as the aesthetic foundation of a broad reset of the French group's prized label -- key to creating buzz and reigniting sales, even if the new designs won't hit stores until early next year. "Gucci is the opportunity to fall in love with fashion, ancora," De Sarno said in a post on Instagram in the run-up to the show, using the Italian word for "again."

The brand plastered the word "ancora" on huge advertisements that marked the date of the show, alongside the Gucci logo -- in white lettering, on a burgundy backdrop -- covering buildings around the world, including New York, Chengdu, Bangkok and London.

Adding to the drama of De Sarno's debut on Friday, a forecast of rain prompted a last-minute shift of the show venue to the Milan headquarters rather than outdoors, on the street in the swanky Brera district.

Debut collections can generate mixed reactions, and even positive press reviews are not always a proxy for their future commercial success. However, the fashion show will "definitely impact investors' perception of De Sarno's capacity to trigger an inflexion in Gucci's aesthetics," said Antoine Belge, analyst with Exane BNP Paribas.

"The climax is not for right away -- it's sometimes the second or third shows that are the most important," Kering CEO and Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault told reporters before the event began, before greeting front-row guest Ryan Gosling.

One of fashion's biggest success stories in recent years, Gucci has fallen behind rivals like LVMH-owned Louis Vuitton and Dior that capitalized on strong post-pandemic appetite for luxury goods.

Since parting ways in November with its previous creative director Alessandro Michele, whose eclectic, gender neutral styles were credited with soaring sales and profits in the 2015-2019 period, the group has been laying the groundwork for the brand reset with more elevated and timeless looks.

Gucci's long-time CEO Marco Bizzarri is due to leave the company after the show, as announced in July, to be replaced by managing director Jean-Francois Palus - Pinault's right-hand man - for a transitional period.

Kering shares were up 3.9% after the show.

At their current price, Kering shares are trading at the equivalent of around 14 times expected earnings over the next 12 months, according to LSEG data. That forward PE compares to 42 for Hermes and 22 for Moncler.


Prada Explores Lightness with Windswept Translucent Chiffon for Next Summer 

A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
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Prada Explores Lightness with Windswept Translucent Chiffon for Next Summer 

A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.

Prada achieved a state of unbearable lightness in a series of translucent chiffon dresses that gently cosseted the form, trailed by wispy strands of the finest organza.

Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aptly dubbed the series of ethereal, windswept dresses previewed during Milan Fashion Week on Thursday as “Haze.” They never altered shape, only the shades of muted pastels shifted. They were paired with bright satin mules, either flats or with small triangular heels.

As they did during menswear in June, models walked past a wall of clear, oozing slime, which pooled, then drained down an industrial grate runway, this season in peach. Miuccia Prada said there was a thematic link.

“The whole thing started from lightness,” Prada told reporters backstage. “We wanted to do a really light, light, light show. Usually, we ... tend to do heavy. It was a challenge to do light.”

Simons said it took the pair the full three years of their collaboration to date to figure out a “light and fluid” approach as a counterpoint to their exploration of weightier topics, like uniforms and decoration.

“The collection is about fluidity, and movement and material that you maybe can’t really grasp easily as solid,” Simons said.

Not that uniforms and decoration were ignored. Chiffon capes gave diaphanous elegance to high-waist belted shorts and a worker’s shirt. A leather utility vest was decorated with swirls of crystals, and there were jumpsuits with notched lapels. As in menswear, long fringe created a curtain over prints. Crushed velvet dresses were decorated with crystals, studs and metal eyelets.

“They are beautiful clothes for today,” Prada said.

Belts were the accessory of the season, especially with long trailing fringe: tinsel silver, coppery gold, leather with eyelets or silky strands.

The new collection featured a reissued bag originally made by Miuccia Prada’s grandfather, Mario Prada, in 1913, a link back to the brand’s lineage as a leather goods company. The gathered handbag features a clasp closure shaped like the mythological face with bulging eyes and tongue stuck out — just as it did in Mario’s day. “He was very eccentric, even back then,” Prada said.

The updated versions are made in leather or the brand’s trademark recycled nylon, Re-nylon.

The backstage surge included Scarlett Johansson and Benedict Cumberbatch, as the writers strike in Hollywood may have left the stars with time to fill fashion’s front rows.


Tom Ford Relaunches Under Peter Hawkings and Moschino Celebrates 40 Years 

A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 21, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 21, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
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Tom Ford Relaunches Under Peter Hawkings and Moschino Celebrates 40 Years 

A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 21, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 21, 2023 in Milan. (AFP)

Milan Fashion Week continued Thursday for the second day with mostly womenswear previews for next spring and summer under a steady rain.

Here are some scenes as Milan designers try to keep the focus on warm weather:

TOM FORD RETURNS TO MILAN ROOTS Peter Hawkings has come full circle, making his runway debut as creative director of the Tom Ford brand Thursday in Milan, where he started working with Ford at Gucci 25 years ago.

Fashionistas entered the Tom Ford world through plush, champagne-colored carpet, beckoning luxury.

Models trod comfortably on stiletto heels, showing leg in shorts worn with tailored jackets, revealing their form in clingy, floor sweeping dresses, and fully inhabiting velvet suits with silken shirts with the trademark Tom Ford plunging neckline.

Hawkings freely acknowledged that his design codes owe a lot to the 25 years he worked alongside Ford, who passed the torch last April. "The design ethos is ingrained in me," he said backstage.

The collection was inspired by Donyale Luna, a Detroit-born Black supermodel who was a muse to Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon.

But Hawkings said his wife, Whitney, equally embodies the Tom Ford woman, one with strong opinions. The pair met at Gucci back in the day.

"I run everything by her. She will tell me whether she loves something, hates something, how it fits, how comfortable it is. I can't try the clothes on, but she can. And she can give me constant feedback," he said.

Whitney wiped tears after the show. "I feel hugely emotional about the whole thing," she said. "It is like going back, but it is a huge step forward. It’s a lot going on. It’s family after all."

MOSCHINO EMPOWERS WOMEN AS IT MARKS 40TH ANNIVERSARY Moschino briefly passed the torch to four top female stylists as the brand marked its 40th anniversary with an homage to founder, the late Franco Moschino.

Fashion designer Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele created a high-low, mix-match collection that can go anywhere and suit any woman. Gabriella Karefa-Johnson tapped a rap vein with high-energy hip looks featuring ruffled, tiered skirts, denim and granny squares that were size-inclusive.

Lucia Liu tapped Moschino's romantic vision, capping her collection with a cake-topper dresser with layers of pink bows, rosettes and boas, fit for the Barbie-moment. And Katie Grand let loose with dancewear from leotards with humorous graphic references and cutouts, exaggerated tutus and ironic slogans like Loud Luxury. Her models — professional dancers — brought the runway to life with a writhing, grinding, irreverent routine.

"We found the codes that we thought would be the most visually dissonant from one another," Karefa-Johnson said. "The challenge was creating cohesive looks within that, which is what I love as a stylist."

A successor to Jeremy Scott, who stepped down in March after a decade as creative director, is pending. But the spirit of Franco Moschino lives on.

BENETTON REACHES ACROSS GENERATIONS There’s a lot of floral-on-floral action in Benetton’s new co-ed, generation-spanning collection for Spring-Summer 2024, unveiled Thursday on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.

The Italian brand known as much for its consciousness-raising ad campaigns as for its bright knitwear is not looking to nudge into the luxury space, but rather into the every-day rotation of colorful dressers looking for elevated basics.

Andrea Incontri, in his third collection for the brand, reimagined Benetton’s mainstays and injected fun with bright monochromes that segued into the season’s upbeat strawberry and banana motifs, closing with tight floral prints that the designer treats as a wildflower patch: mix and match at will.

Denim looks punctuated the color, in two sweet miniskirt-jacket combos for her and shorts for him. The collection was mirrored across generations, underlined by babies and children accompanied by model parents.

Incontri said backstage that his aim is not to create iconic pieces so much as make the wearer feel that "you are iconic. You are expressing yourself with style."


Shein Shifts Shipping Strategy to Bring China-Made Goods Closer to US Shoppers 

A Shein logo is pictured at the company's office in the central business district of Singapore, October 18, 2022. (Reuters)
A Shein logo is pictured at the company's office in the central business district of Singapore, October 18, 2022. (Reuters)
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Shein Shifts Shipping Strategy to Bring China-Made Goods Closer to US Shoppers 

A Shein logo is pictured at the company's office in the central business district of Singapore, October 18, 2022. (Reuters)
A Shein logo is pictured at the company's office in the central business district of Singapore, October 18, 2022. (Reuters)

E-commerce giant Shein is sending more low-priced apparel and home goods to US warehouses from China to speed up shipping times for shoppers, according to data from global trade analysis firm ImportGenius provided exclusively to Reuters.

Shein, known for its $10 tops and $5 biker shorts, until recently has made many American purchasers face wait times of up to two weeks or more to receive their goods. This, say analysts, has put the fast-fashion e-tailer at a competitive disadvantage to bigger rivals such as Target, Walmart and Amazon.com, particularly during the holiday shopping season.

Analysts told Reuters that Shein would likely continue to expand its bulk shipments to the US in a bid to compete with established retailers on delivery times as it eyes an initial public offering.

The import data seen by Reuters shows Shein's efforts to narrow the speed gap with retailers such as Amazon, which has made a push to offer next-day or two-day shipping to shoppers who pay $139 per year for its Prime membership service.

The move also marks a strategy shift for Shein, which has traditionally flown goods directly from China to shoppers. Shein lacks any physical stores in the US.

According to the import data seen by Reuters, Shein's ocean shipments of apparel have increased more than 2,000 times over the last two years, soaring from 312,385 pounds (141,695 kg) imported in bulk on container ships in 2021 to over 6.8 million so far this year. Virtually all came from China, where Shein relies on a network of suppliers to produce its expansive assortment of low-priced merchandise.

In 2022, Shein opened a warehouse in Whitestown, Indiana, where it generally stores that inventory to then be shipped to shoppers within four to seven business days.

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Shein had already launched a faster delivery option for goods stored in the US, called "QuickShip," in 2022. The same year, the retailer's bulk imports brought to the US by ocean freight increased by nearly 790%, from over 312,000 pounds to more than 2.7 million, according to the ImportGenius data.

Goods eligible for QuickShip are delivered significantly faster than Shein's standard shipping times, which can range from nine to 14 days, according to estimates on its website.

Facing long waits, shoppers will likely make "infrequent" purchases from Shein, particularly during the key holiday shopping season, analysts at UBS said on Tuesday.

The ImportGenius data did not provide detailed descriptions for Shein products imported in bulk on container ships. Importing high-demand products in bulk helps Shein save money, a person familiar with Shein's strategy said, as ocean shipping is significantly less costly than air freight.

Shein still sends the majority of its merchandise by air in individually addressed packages - most of which enter the US under the "de minimis" trade provision that exempts them from tariffs.

A June report by a US House of Representatives committee estimated that Shein and China-founded e-tailer Temu, owned by PDD Holdings, bring in nearly 600,000 packages a day under the exemption. Shein declined to comment on the estimate.

Shipping goods by air directly from China is a strategy that helps the e-tailer avoid unsold inventory piling up in warehouses, according to Juozas Kaziukenas, founder of e-commerce analytics firm Marketplace Pulse. Prior to 2020, Shein imported no clothing by ocean freight, according to the ImportGenius data.

Shein has said it plans to increase its US storage space with an expansion of its Indiana facility and a new warehouse in Cherry Valley, California, expected to open within months.