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Adidas and Puma Eye Chances in Soccer's Fashion Moment

FILE PHOTO: The Adidas logo is pictured in Herzogenaurach, Germany, August 9, 2019. REUTERS/Andreas Gebert/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The Adidas logo is pictured in Herzogenaurach, Germany, August 9, 2019. REUTERS/Andreas Gebert/File Photo
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Adidas and Puma Eye Chances in Soccer's Fashion Moment

FILE PHOTO: The Adidas logo is pictured in Herzogenaurach, Germany, August 9, 2019. REUTERS/Andreas Gebert/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The Adidas logo is pictured in Herzogenaurach, Germany, August 9, 2019. REUTERS/Andreas Gebert/File Photo

Sportswear brands like Adidas and Puma are seeking to take advantage of a flirtation with soccer by the fashion world to reach a new customer base, building in part on demand created by this summer's successful Women's World Cup.
With celebrities like Kim Kardashian seen attending matches and wearing soccer jerseys, clubs too spy new merchandising opportunities. One Premiership team has hired a creative director to expand its apparel offering, while Adidas in September launched an "exclusively off-pitch" apparel collection for some of the big-name teams it sponsors.
"The love-in between football and fashion is only just beginning," said Richard Busby, CEO at sponsorship consultancy BDS Sponsorship.
The Women's World Cup showed there is huge unmet demand for soccer-related merchandise for women: Nike drew a backlash from fans for not offering replica kits for England's Mary Earps and other goalkeepers playing in the competition.
But the trend extends to fashion-conscious fans of both sexes, Busby said. "Premiership clubs have a lot of wealthy supporters but very few of the items they sell appeal to them, whether men or women."
Second-division Greek football club Athens Kallithea is among those giving its jerseys a makeover. Its campaigns show women wearing the unisex tops with satin skirts and styled as smart casual clothing to wear out to dinner.
The ranges are designed to appeal beyond a club's traditional fan base.
Kardashian has been spotted wearing vintage Roma and Paris Saint-Germain shirts, while 20-year-old model Mia Regan paired an Arsenal shirt with a long denim skirt and boots at a Paris Fashion Week show in October.
In August, Crystal Palace hired Kenny Annan-Jonathan as creative director focused on apparel. He is expected to expand the range of clothing offered by the Premier League club.
HYPE AROUND FOOTBALL CULTURE
Adidas and Puma have long been associated with streetwear and pop culture.
But with the German companies each spending two-thirds of their annual sponsorship outlay on soccer, according to a GlobalData report published this month, football's fashionable turn could prove lucrative.
For Nike, which also invests significantly in basketball and college sports, soccer accounts for 48% of its annual sponsorship spend, GlobalData found.
"We are experiencing hype around football jerseys and general designs influenced by football culture across streetwear and fashion," said Puma's global creative director Heiko Desens.
Puma is seeking to further fuel that hype. Its newest footwear collaboration with popstar Rihanna's Fenty brand, launched last month, was a trainer inspired by cleats worn by the late, legendary Brazilian soccer player Pele.
The launch campaign featured Rihanna inside a giant de-constructed soccer ball. The shoes, priced at $170 for a silver colorway and $160 for a black and white model, sold out on Puma's website on the day they were released, Reuters reported.
"Puma has a higher sales exposure to women than Adidas or Nike, and the original Rihanna partnership in 2015 was really effective in helping it build strong demand and a lot of credibility with the female consumer," said Graham Renwick, analyst at Berenberg.
"So with the relaunch of this partnership Puma will be hoping for a similar response."
Adidas's apparel range for Arsenal, Bayern Munich, Juventus, Manchester United and Real Madrid, launched in September, included crop tops and dresses made in a jersey knit and featuring more subtle club branding.
"We want to cater to the needs of both the consumer who plays football actively and the consumer who is attracted by football culture," Adidas said.
High fashion is also getting involved: in May, Italian label Prada collaborated with Adidas on soccer cleats in three colorways including white, retailing for $595 a pair.
Liverpool and Newcastle United are also seeking to hire creative directors, in a trend that could change the dynamic between the Premiership clubs and their sponsoring brands.
Athens Kallithea and Italy's Venezia FC have used slick social media campaigns to sell apparel globally despite a smaller fanbase.
"There's a risk of tension with existing fans whenever you start moving beyond the core culture," said Athens Kallithea's president and creative director, Ted Philipakos. He said teams from the Premier League and Bundesliga had contacted him to learn from his strategy.
"It's a delicate balancing act that requires more nuance and sensibility than many big clubs tend to have," Philipakos said.

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In Bolivia's Scrappy Highlands, Proud Indigenous Cholas Take the Runway by Storm

A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara a woman, on Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara a woman, on Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
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In Bolivia's Scrappy Highlands, Proud Indigenous Cholas Take the Runway by Storm

A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara a woman, on Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara a woman, on Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)

In the huddled markets, sprawling farms and pulsing parties of Viacha, a town southeast of Bolivia’s capital, it's typical for women to sport bowler hats, tiered skirts and fringed shawls.
What's less typical is for the fashion spotlight to turn to these outfits — worn by “Cholas,” Indigenous women from the highland Altiplano.
But late Friday in Viacha, some 22 kilometers (13 miles) from Bolivia's capital of La Paz — over 12,000 feet (3,650 meters) above sea level — awe-struck teenage boys and proud mothers throbbed the main square as the town’s dirt roadway was briefly transformed into a runway, The Associated Press said.
One by one, the girls from Viacha — mostly students between 15-25 years old — strutted down the catwalk to a surprising soundtrack of early 2000s American pop music. Street vendors hawked hot dogs and empanadas. Supporters cheered in Spanish and the Indigenous Aymaran language.
Wearing glittering shoes and brightly colored, bunched-out skirts called “polleras,” the amateur models of all heights and sizes twirled, tipped their hats and threw sultry glances at the crowd.
“Years ago, people would associate these skirts with the fields, they'd look down on us as rural peasants,” said Rogelia Canaviri, 42, who couldn't stop smiling as she watched her daughter, Carolina, stride down the runway in dangling pearl earrings, the sequins on her layer-cake red skirt catching the stage lights.
“It's something I'm proud of, to see my daughter and her friends enjoy what I've worn for work my whole life," she said, pointing to the wool shawl, velvet hat and lower-key beige pollera she had on — the same clothes, she said, she still wears to milk her cows and sell her cheese at open-air markets. Her own mother did the same.
Generations ago, the Aymara were subject to waves of conquest and dispossession, first by the Inca, then by the Spanish, who forced the Indigenous communities to abandon their traditional way of dressing and adopt the style then-popular in the court of Seville.
Legend has it that the jaunty felt bowler hat became critical to the get-up after being introduced by British railway workers in the 1920s.
Bolivia's whiter, more affluent population has used “Chola” — and its diminutive, “Cholita” — as dismissive racial epithets. But in recent decades that stigma has dissipated, with Indigenous Aymara proudly reclaiming the word and younger Bolivians rediscovering the charm of their mothers' and grandmothers' vibrant garments.
“I think the ‘Cholita’ has become something very interesting, very exciting in our current context,” said Brittany Cantuta Valeria, 21, a first-time model, her hat brimmed upward and cheeks flushed a reddish gold.
“We’re now at the point of being respected because of everything that’s been implemented, so I wear this to have fun, to show off, to go to parties and dances. I have nothing to do with working the fields.”
Most of the girls parading onstage Friday, in the show organized by the Viacha municipality, grew up during the tenure of former leftist President Evo Morales (2006-2019), the country’s first-ever Indigenous president whose championing of Bolivia's Indigenous majority earned him fervent support across the cinderblock and adobe homes of the Altiplano.
Morales instituted a new constitution, which, among other things, expanded recognition for Bolivia’s 36 ethnic groups. He promoted the teaching of Indigenous languages and boosted state funding for folkloric arts. More Chola runway shows and beauty contests cropped up, widening the reach of Bolivia's native highland culture.
But fashion fanfare was largely limited to La Paz, the seat of the government. Before Friday, the town of Viacha, like most of the other villages across these austere mountain-rimmed plains, had never taken its turn on the runway.
“I was really nervous but I realized this is the first time for all of us,” said 15-year-old Tomasa Ramirez. “I feel so pretty. Now I know it’s my dream to be a Cholita model.”
With Bolivia's economic crisis closing like a vise on families whose money has diminished in value while the cost of food has doubled, many girls said walking the show was no easy feat.
Top-notch velvet hats and shawls made from vicuña wool with silk fringes can fetch thousands of dollars. Polleras cost a few hundred dollars. Then there's the jewelry — ideally made of real gold, pearls and diamonds when worn to these kinds of formal events.
“This year there was no way I could have real ones,” said Julieta Mamani, 16, pointing to her gold-colored earrings. “I hope things will be different next year.”
Watching her 24-year-old daughter pose for selfies in her elaborate skirt, Canaviri, the dairy farmer, has another hope.
“I hope she doesn't like wearing pants,” she said of her daughter. “I tried on pants once in my life, and I felt naked. Never again.”