Global Fashion Factories in Bangladesh Resigned to Slimmer Margins ahead of Wage Hike

Garment workers sew T-shirts at a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 2009. AFP/Getty Images
Garment workers sew T-shirts at a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 2009. AFP/Getty Images
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Global Fashion Factories in Bangladesh Resigned to Slimmer Margins ahead of Wage Hike

Garment workers sew T-shirts at a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 2009. AFP/Getty Images
Garment workers sew T-shirts at a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 2009. AFP/Getty Images

Several clothing factory owners in global fashion manufacturing hub Bangladesh are asking clients that include H&M to help them pay for an almost 60% government-mandated hike in wages, well aware that weaker sales might stymie their efforts.
Following a week of deadly clashes between garment industry workers and police over pay, the government on Tuesday said the minimum wage would rise by 56.25% to 12,500 taka ($114) a month from Dec. 1, the first increase in five years.
A panel of factory owners, union leaders and officials agreed to the increase unanimously, said Siddiqur Rahman, the owners' representative. Low wages have helped Bangladesh become the world's largest garment exporter after China, but soaring fuel and power prices have added to the spiraling cost of living for people in this developing South Asian nation.
Speaking to Reuters on Wednesday, Rahman said the wage hike - which comes ahead of a January general election - could be a "disaster" for an industry that accounts for almost 16% of GDP and generates more than $40 billion a year in export receipts.
Bangladesh is home to more than 4,000 factories that supply global brands ranging from fast fashion retailers such as Zara-owner Inditex and Gap Inc to the more upmarket Hugo Boss and Lululemon.
But like most makers of consumer goods, fashion retailers are grappling with high inventories and a slowing global economy, where shoppers in key markets are buying less as they feel the pinch. That has led to a 14% drop in Bangladesh's garment exports last month.
"The timing is not good," said Fazlul Hoque, managing director of Plummy Fashions and former president of the Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association, about the wage hike.
"The industry is already struggling, order flow is slow, energy supply is not adequate and the overall economic situation is not good. In such a time, a big hike in wages certainly will be tough... but for workers, I agree it is a legitimate demand."
Hoque said the increase would add 5-6% to overall costs, a rise he and other factory owners have asked their clients to help shoulder by agreeing to higher rates. Labour accounts for 10% to 13% of their total costs.
He is not optimistic, however.
"In the past, we have seen that they increase only a bit, not enough to pay the extra cost," Hoque said. "There might be exceptions, but there are thousands of buyers, and not everyone will agree to cover the whole amount. There is no legal enforcement on the buyers."
Last month, several fashion brands including Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Gap, Hugo Boss, Levi Strauss , Lululemon, Puma, PVH and Under Armour told Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina in a letter they were "committed to implementing responsible purchasing practices" to enable higher wages.
"We continue to recommend that the government of Bangladesh adopt an annual minimum wage review mechanism to keep up with changing macroeconomic factors," the letter said. In addition to the wage increase, the government has said that workers would be given a 5% annual increment.
Babul Akter, president of the Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, urged global brands to pay more, saying: "There could be some problems for the owners to cope with the increased salaries."
But Abdus Salam Murshedy, managing director of the Envoy Group that sells to Walmart, Zara and American Eagle Outfitter among others, said buyers were unwilling to pay the "right price, the fair price" with major economies slowing and the wars in Ukraine and in the Middle East raising geopolitical concerns.
"Words from buyers are fine but when they place orders, they say there are many other competing suppliers, so you better do this, do that," said Murshedy, who is also a lawmaker from Hasina's Awami League party.
"The industry needs to be able to pay for its costs. If there is no industry, where will the workers work?"



Saudi Fashion Commission Showcases Local Brands at Selfridges in London 

Saudi Fashion Commission Showcases Local Brands at Selfridges in London 
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Saudi Fashion Commission Showcases Local Brands at Selfridges in London 

Saudi Fashion Commission Showcases Local Brands at Selfridges in London 

An initiative showcasing the creations of elite Saudi brands has been launched at Selfridges in London through a strategic partnership between the Saudi Fashion Commission, the Cultural Development Fund (CDF), and Selfridges, reported the Saudi Press Agency on Wednesday.

This milestone reflects the growing momentum of the Kingdom's fashion sector and the evolving talent of its designers and entrepreneurs, driven by strong domestic demand, strategic investments, and institutional support from leading national entities shaping the cultural economy.

For two months, the works of participants in the Saudi 100 Brands program and beneficiaries of the Cultural Development Fund will be showcased. Selected by Selfridges based on specific criteria, each designer blends contemporary Saudi aesthetics with innovative design. The collections are featured in an immersive shopping experience at one of the world's most iconic luxury stores, coinciding with the peak summer season.

Cultural events will also be held during the brands' presence to celebrate the Kingdom's "Year of Handicrafts." These events will highlight the Kingdom's deep-rooted heritage, which is an inexhaustible source of inspiration that continues to shape the creative expressions of contemporary local designers, whose creations resonate on the global stage.

CEO of the Cultural Development Fund Majed Al-Hogail stated that this significant milestone embodies the growing momentum of the Kingdom's fashion sector.

"Local talents and entrepreneurs are not only emerging, but are also redefining the Kingdom's creative identity through designs and brands that are deeply rooted in Saudi culture, yet expressed with a contemporary global vision," he added.

Al-Hogail noted that, backed by domestic demand, strategic investment, and unified national support, "the fashion sector has become a vital pillar of our cultural economy. It reflects our commitment to fostering sustainable opportunities and establishing the Kingdom's position as a leading force in the global cultural landscape, in line with the aspirations of Saudi Vision 2030."

CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission Burak Cakmak said: "This is more than just a retail opportunity; it is a declaration that Saudi fashion is entering a new era, from Riyadh to London."

"Through the Saudi 100 Brands program, we support designers in honing their craft and creating real pathways for global reach and business growth," he stressed.

The list of participating brands represents the innovation and diversity of the Saudi fashion industry.