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Jeweller Pandora Sees ‘Healthy’ Sales So Far This Year 

Pandora products are seen at their store at the Woodbury Common Premium Outlets in Central Valley, New York, US, February 15, 2022. (Reuters)
Pandora products are seen at their store at the Woodbury Common Premium Outlets in Central Valley, New York, US, February 15, 2022. (Reuters)
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Jeweller Pandora Sees ‘Healthy’ Sales So Far This Year 

Pandora products are seen at their store at the Woodbury Common Premium Outlets in Central Valley, New York, US, February 15, 2022. (Reuters)
Pandora products are seen at their store at the Woodbury Common Premium Outlets in Central Valley, New York, US, February 15, 2022. (Reuters)

Pandora, the world's biggest jewellery maker, said on Wednesday its performance since the start of the year has been "healthy" with high single-digit sales growth, as it announced a share buyback program after a strong run.

Pandora has been a rare bright spot among retailers and brands targeting aspirational consumers with affordable luxury items.

The company is aiming for overall organic revenue growth of 6%-9% in 2024, it said, after reporting strong sales of its silver charms and bracelets which have helped its share price to more than double since the start of last year.

The growth target is in line with a goal set in October for a 7-9% compound annual growth rate from 2023 to 2026.

It also announced a share buyback program of up to 4 billion Danish crowns ($577.7 million), and a dividend of 18 Danish crowns per share. Its shares rose around 1% at the open.

A weak spot was China, where Pandora said fourth-quarter sales missed expectations, falling to 116 million crowns from 143 million in the same quarter a year earlier.

Expectations for a strong post-pandemic rebound in China were derailed last year by a property crisis and high youth unemployment, curbing consumer spending and hitting luxury brands like Burberry.

China accounted for just 2% of Pandora's total revenues in 2023, down from 5% of revenues as recently as 2021.

"We're in there for the long game. It's going to be step by step, and one day China will be a significant portion of Pandora," CEO Alexander Lacik said in an interview with Reuters.

The brand, which sold 107 million pieces of jewellery in 2023, up from 103 million in 2022, has expanded its range of bracelets, with prices ranging from $60 to more than $2,000, and been opening new stores and moving away from wholesale.

"They have improved their communication and marketing very significantly," said Jaime Vazquez de Lapuerta, portfolio manager at Bestinver in Madrid, which holds Pandora shares.

Pandora has a big opportunity to open more stores in its biggest market, the United States, he added. "Then you have a potential turnaround in China, but you don't need to believe in that to be bullish on Pandora."

The company's revenue in the US increased by 2% to 8.3 billion crowns over 2023. Revenue in China fell by 9% to 564 million crowns over the year.

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Fashion

Jeweler's Eye-popping Watch is Love Letter to Albania

The timepiece, worth roughly $1.4 million, is set to face off against the best watches from across the world at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November. ADNAN BECI / AFP
The timepiece, worth roughly $1.4 million, is set to face off against the best watches from across the world at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November. ADNAN BECI / AFP
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Jeweler's Eye-popping Watch is Love Letter to Albania

The timepiece, worth roughly $1.4 million, is set to face off against the best watches from across the world at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November. ADNAN BECI / AFP
The timepiece, worth roughly $1.4 million, is set to face off against the best watches from across the world at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November. ADNAN BECI / AFP

Albanian jeweler Pirro Ruco labored day and night for five years to capture the essence of his country in a spectacular luxury watch.
Now the timepiece, worth roughly $1.4 million, is set to face off against the best watches from across the world at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November, AFP said.
Set under a sapphire dome, the hours are marked by 12 golden folk dancers -- each in different regional dress -- set on Murano glass, the minute and hour hands adorned with eagle talons in homage to Albania's national symbol.
Ruco's rollercoaster rise mirrors that of Albania, from poverty and isolation as the most closed communist regime in Europe, to rollicking capitalism.
Along the way the jeweler overcame jealousy, the secret police and being sent into internal exile to rise to the pinnacle of his profession.
It all began for Pirro -- as he is known in his homeland -- in 1985 when he was asked to make a medal in red and gold bearing the head of Enver Hoxha, the paranoid dictator who ruled the small Balkan nation with an iron fist for more than four decades.
"That saved me," he told AFP from his workshop tucked away in an alley in the capital Tirana.
The medals were awarded to the regime's most loyal supporters and later caught the eye of Hoxha's wife.
The turn of fortune saw thousands more produced and worn by communist cadres across Albania.
"All the congressional delegates had to wear it. I made a name for myself with it," he said. It also saved him from the textile mills where he had been sent because his family had been deemed "rebellious".
'Priceless'
All this, however, was nearly derailed by an anonymous letter sent to authorities accusing Pirro of working with foreign agents.
He was questioned by intelligence agents and his workshop raided.
Down but not out, he was able to bounce back after crafting a ring bearing the image of the late husband of a member of the communist politburo and in July 1990 won a prize for a piece featuring Albania's 15th-century national hero Skanderberg.
But the very next day history intervened. The regime began to crumble and the collapse of Albania's communist rule in 1991 was followed by years of violent tumult as the country transitioned to a free-market economy.
Amid the ups and downs, Pirro stayed busy designing pieces for officials and celebrities.
During a trip to Basel in Switzerland in 2016, something new caught his eye.
"I wanted to make a watch. It was my new dream," he told AFP.
For the next five years, Pirro said he focused on "doing something special, Albanian, and at the same time completely new and never before seen in the watch industry."
The new timepiece which he calls Primordial Passion was designed in collaboration with the Swiss watchmaker Agenhor.
"I never wanted to make jewelry, but art," the jeweler said.
"Sculptures, images of the country, pieces of culture... This watch is the culmination of all that, of this love for Albania," he added.
"It is more than just a watch. It combines the rich heritage of ancient Albanian culture with the notion of chronometry."
Pirro refuses to divulge the methods used to craft the watch, but remains hopeful the painstaking details will be recognized by the judges at the Grand Prix in Geneva.
Several collectors have already contacted him about buying the timepiece, he said, though it would be difficult to part with his creation.
"I set a price because I had to. But for me, it is priceless."