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Burberry Presents Star-studded Moody Autumnal Collection

A person walks past a Burberry store undergoing refurbishment on New Bond Street in London, Britain, March 11, 2023. REUTERS/Henry Nicholls
A person walks past a Burberry store undergoing refurbishment on New Bond Street in London, Britain, March 11, 2023. REUTERS/Henry Nicholls
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Burberry Presents Star-studded Moody Autumnal Collection

A person walks past a Burberry store undergoing refurbishment on New Bond Street in London, Britain, March 11, 2023. REUTERS/Henry Nicholls
A person walks past a Burberry store undergoing refurbishment on New Bond Street in London, Britain, March 11, 2023. REUTERS/Henry Nicholls

Burberry's creative director, Daniel Lee, on Monday showed his third brief at London Fashion Week, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary, with an ode to the brand's outdoor heritage for the luxury house's autumn-winter 2024 collection.
Set in a dark marquee in London's Victoria Park where guests sat on big fluffy brown cushions, songs from late British singer Amy Winehouse set the mood for the night.
The star-studded show was attended by actress Olivia Coleman, US Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour, model Jourdan Dunn, and Irish actor Barry Keoghan among others, Reuters.
Monday's show heavily featured outerwear and sporty silhouettes with bomber jackets and Burberry's iconic trench coat that sat alongside flowy beaded and velvet dresses.
It noticeably lacked the brand's new signature 'Knight Blue', the same color featured in its "takeover" of British department store Harrods this month.
Models walked down a grass runway on chunky-soled leather boots, parading leather and faux-fur coats in shades of muted green and brown, oversized stripy suit jackets and trousers with sipper detailing.
British models Naomi Campbell, Agyness Deyn and Lily Cole were among those sashaying on the catwalk.
Burberry's famous beige, black and red check was reimagined into the moody Autumnal color palette and featured on the inside of floor-sweeping skirts with long slits down the side.
Accessories included checked umbrellas, large canvas, leather and faux-fur bags in cream, brown and green - often adorned with gold detailing - and paired with scarves worn over the head.
Lee, who was behind the revamp of Italian fashion brand Bottega Veneta, is facing pressure to produce a winning collection for Burberry which is battling a slowdown in demand for luxury goods.
The 168-year-old company issued a warning on its profits in January, a setback for Chief Executive Jonathan Akeroyd who is seeking to reposition the brand as "modern British luxury".

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Fashion

Martine Rose Appointed Balenciaga Creative Director as Kering Seeks Fresh Ideas

Workers board up the windows of a Balenciaga shop on October 30, 2026 on Kurfuerstendamm boulevard in Berlin, one day ahead of announced nationwide youths demonstrations called by the initiative "GenZ regelt" ("GenZ will handle"). (Photo by John MACDOUGALL / AFP)
Workers board up the windows of a Balenciaga shop on October 30, 2026 on Kurfuerstendamm boulevard in Berlin, one day ahead of announced nationwide youths demonstrations called by the initiative "GenZ regelt" ("GenZ will handle"). (Photo by John MACDOUGALL / AFP)
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Martine Rose Appointed Balenciaga Creative Director as Kering Seeks Fresh Ideas

Workers board up the windows of a Balenciaga shop on October 30, 2026 on Kurfuerstendamm boulevard in Berlin, one day ahead of announced nationwide youths demonstrations called by the initiative "GenZ regelt" ("GenZ will handle"). (Photo by John MACDOUGALL / AFP)
Workers board up the windows of a Balenciaga shop on October 30, 2026 on Kurfuerstendamm boulevard in Berlin, one day ahead of announced nationwide youths demonstrations called by the initiative "GenZ regelt" ("GenZ will handle"). (Photo by John MACDOUGALL / AFP)

British designer Martine Rose is taking over as creative director at Balenciaga, parent Kering said on Friday, replacing Pierpaolo Piccioli after only 16 months in the role. 

Rose's appointment is the third creative leadership shake-up in a month at Kering brands as the French luxury group's CEO, Luca de Meo, tries to restore growth after a bruising three-year slowdown that hit its biggest label Gucci particularly hard, said Reuters. 

Rose, 45, is a menswear designer who founded her eponymous label in London in 2007 and later worked at Balenciaga for three years ‌under then ‌creative director Demna, who now leads Gucci. 

"It ‌is ⁠a true privilege ⁠to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga, a House with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit," said Rose. 

De Meo said Rose's "connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the House." 

In his 10 years at Balenciaga, Demna transformed the Spanish label, infusing it with a dark, ⁠dystopian aesthetic and producing viral streetwear hits, such ‌as chunky, distressed sneakers that fueled ‌sales. 

Piccioli, 59, known for colorful haute couture gowns, tried to take the ‌fashion house in a new direction but the former Valentino creative ‌director's designs received mixed reviews from fashion critics. 

Rose was born in Croydon, south London, and her designs are inspired by 1990s rave culture and street style blending high and low fashion, more in line with ‌Kering's aim to attract a new generation of shoppers. Her brand has collaborated with Nike and with ⁠cult skate ⁠brand Supreme. 

In an Instagram post after the announcement, Piccioli thanked his teams, saying: "Life is a journey and each chapter exists to make way for the next." 

Appointed before de Meo took over and began a complete overhaul of Kering, Piccioli only presented three ready-to-wear collections and one haute couture line in his short time at Balenciaga. 

Kering has yet to announce a new creative director at Saint Laurent, its second-biggest brand, to replace Anthony Vaccarello who resigned in October after a decade leading the Parisian fashion label. 

Alexander McQueen is also currently without a creative director after Kering said Sean McGirr was stepping down. 

Fashion

Balenciaga Designer Piccioli to Exit after a Year in Latest Departure at Kering

Pierpaolo Piccioli poses ahead of "The Prelude to the Olympics", an event dedicated to fashion and sports at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, on the eve of the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics, in Paris, France, July 25, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
Pierpaolo Piccioli poses ahead of "The Prelude to the Olympics", an event dedicated to fashion and sports at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, on the eve of the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics, in Paris, France, July 25, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
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Balenciaga Designer Piccioli to Exit after a Year in Latest Departure at Kering

Pierpaolo Piccioli poses ahead of "The Prelude to the Olympics", an event dedicated to fashion and sports at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, on the eve of the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics, in Paris, France, July 25, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
Pierpaolo Piccioli poses ahead of "The Prelude to the Olympics", an event dedicated to fashion and sports at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, on the eve of the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics, in Paris, France, July 25, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo

French luxury group Kering on Thursday announced the departure of Balenciaga creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli after less than 16 months, the latest leadership change at the Gucci-owner which is seeking to reverse years of falling sales.

Piccioli, a 25-year veteran at Valentino, became creative director in July last year to replace Demna who moved to Gucci.

His exit comes only weeks after ⁠Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director ⁠of Kering's second-biggest brand Saint Laurent, and Alexander McQueen designer Sean McGirr left their posts.

Kering CEO Luca de Meo described Piccioli as a “an exceptional couturier and creative talent".

"Our ambition is to ⁠build on Balenciaga's avant-garde spirit, honor its remarkable heritage and continue to push creative boundaries, further establishing the House as a powerful and relevant voice," he added in a statement, according to Reuters.

De Meo launched belt-tightening measures at the group earlier this year but the economic fallout of the war in Iran and slowing consumer sentiment in China have so ⁠far ⁠overshadowed any sign of recovery.

Balenciaga's new creative direction will be announced shortly, Kering said.

US online media Puck has reported that Piccioli will be replaced by British-Jamaican designer Martine Rose, who worked as a menswear consultant under Demna at Balenciaga before founding her own label. Kering could not be immediately reached for comment.

Fashion

M&S Profit Rebounds from Cyberattack but Clothing Drags on Recovery

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
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M&S Profit Rebounds from Cyberattack but Clothing Drags on Recovery

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)

British retailer Marks & Spencer said on Wednesday its first-half profit rebounded from last year's cyberattack-hit level, but was down on a two-year basis as strong trading in food failed to fully offset weakness in clothing.

The 142-year-old M&S, one of the biggest names on the UK high street, said its adjusted profit before ‌tax more than doubled ‌in the six months to September 26 ‌to £403.2 ⁠million ($542.4 million), on ⁠sales up 16.2% to £9.26 billion.

Analysts had on average forecast profit of £399 million.

Food sales increased 13.9% year-on-year, while sales in the fashion, home and beauty division, or FH&B, rose 17.5%.

But, while food profit was well ahead on a two-year basis, FH&B profit was nearly £93 million lower, reflecting a more challenging apparel market ⁠and a slower recovery from the cyberattack.

M&S said ‌fashion gained market share in ‌a declining market, despite "availability constraints".

CEO Stuart Machin said FH&B's results "fell short of their potential ‌and show there is a lot more to do."

"Although ‌we have much improved product, the end-to-end transformation is in the foothills," he said.

Analysts noted that this year's spring/summer clothing collections were ordered when many systems were down after the April 2025 hack.

M&S said market conditions ‌in FH&B "remain challenging", but said performance is expected to improve in the second half compared with the ⁠first, as ⁠availability has recovered, with a better balance between core and seasonal stock.

Shares in M&S were down 1% in early trading, paring 2026 gains to 24%.

M&S' food business was quick to recover from the cyberattack and is currently Britain's fastest-growing grocer, winning market share.

The group said its strategy of becoming "more of a shopping list (food) retailer" was working and its plan to double the size of its food business was on track.

M&S forecast full-year adjusted profit before tax in line with current market expectations. Analysts on average forecast £941 million.

"We enter the second half in a strong position, with a solid October under our belts," added Machin.