Leather at Acne Studios, Shaggy Coats at Dries Van Noten for Paris Fashion Week

A model presents a creation by designer Dries Van Noten as part of his Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2024. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
A model presents a creation by designer Dries Van Noten as part of his Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2024. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
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Leather at Acne Studios, Shaggy Coats at Dries Van Noten for Paris Fashion Week

A model presents a creation by designer Dries Van Noten as part of his Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2024. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
A model presents a creation by designer Dries Van Noten as part of his Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2024. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

For his fall/winter runway presentation, Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson showed slick, all leather looks and long, tailored jackets on Wednesday at Paris Fashion Week.
The collection was "rooted in toughness and human form, leather and denim," said the show notes, affixed to each seat.
"A celebration of uncompromising femininity." Leather bodysuits had high necks and voluminous sleeves and were left unzipped in the back, while floor-sweeping trench coats were tightly fitted.
Softening the lineup were all-white looks, including a long gown with buttons running down to the navel as well as an earth-coloured dress worn with a thick, furry scarf.
Dries Van Noten, who showed earlier on Wednesday, also featured thick scarves in his catwalk show, including one with sparkles that framed the model's head like a pillow.
The Puig-owned label's lineup came in pastels, grey and light browns, and included coats and bomber jackets with rounded shoulders, as well as tailored suits embellished with shimmery beadwork.
"It’s the way that he drapes, it’s the way that he styles, it’s the way that he designs these clothes — there’s always a woman in mind," said fashion commentator Hanan Besovic, known for his Instagram account @ideservecouture.
French-Moroccan creative director Charaf Tajer also held a runway show on Wednesday, for his label Casablanca's collection called "Venus as a Boy."
Held in the historic Paris Bouglione circus house, models walked the circular runway showcasing sporty tracksuits, cheerleader skirts and sheer, fitted skirts with slits.
Paris Fashion Week runs through March 5, with upcoming shows from Chanel, Hermes, Kering-owned Balenciaga and LVMH's Louis Vuitton.



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.