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Zalando Jumps as Online Fashion Retailer Sees Return to Growth 

Zalando packaging from an online delivery is seen discarded in a cardboard box in Galway, Ireland, August 27, 2020. Picture taken August 27, 2020. (Reuters)
Zalando packaging from an online delivery is seen discarded in a cardboard box in Galway, Ireland, August 27, 2020. Picture taken August 27, 2020. (Reuters)
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Zalando Jumps as Online Fashion Retailer Sees Return to Growth 

Zalando packaging from an online delivery is seen discarded in a cardboard box in Galway, Ireland, August 27, 2020. Picture taken August 27, 2020. (Reuters)
Zalando packaging from an online delivery is seen discarded in a cardboard box in Galway, Ireland, August 27, 2020. Picture taken August 27, 2020. (Reuters)

German online fashion retailer Zalando on Wednesday forecast a return to growth this year and said it was opening up its logistics business to more players, raising hopes of a boost to its performance and helping to lift its shares.

The stock jumped as much as 18.5% after the company also said late Tuesday it would buy back up to 100 million euros ($109 million) of shares, starting from March 13.

Zalando said on Wednesday it expected gross merchandise value (GMV) growth, a key metric measuring the value of all goods sold, of between 0% and 5% this year, after a 1.1% decline to 14.6 billion euros in 2023.

It said it was targeting a compound annual growth rate of 5-10% for GMV and revenue through 2028, as it updated strategies for both its fashion/lifestyle business and its infrastructure business (B2B) ahead of a Capital Markets Day on Wednesday.

In B2B, Zalando is opening up its logistics network, software and services to help the e-commerce transactions of brands and retailers regardless whether they take place on its platform.

By doing so, "Zalando seems to be reckoning that the historical growth story relying on even-increasing online fashion penetration is now close to the glass ceiling," said Bryan, Garnier & Co analyst Clement Genelot.

"In other words, the growth potential has been reduced. Hence the shift towards a logistician business to address the over-capacity issue in its existing fulfilment network."

Zalando also expects revenue growth of 0% to 5% this year, after a 1.9% drop to 10.1 billion euros in 2023.

"The wider range reflects the continued uncertainty we see in the market," finance chief Sandra Dembeck told reporters.

Zalando, a multi-brand platform that sells clothes, shoes, and accessories, is facing weakening demand after a growth boom during the pandemic, as consumers grappling with inflation and high interest rates cut spending and turn to cheaper options offered by fast fashion rivals like China-based Shein.

Its shares were up 15% to 22 euros at 0823 GMT.

The company expects adjusted earnings before interest and tax of 380 million to 450 million euros this year, up from 350 million in 2023.

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Fashion

80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
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80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)

L.L. Bean created it 80 years ago to haul heavy blocks of ice. Now it's a must-have summer fashion accessory, The Associated Press reported.

The simple, sturdy canvas bag called the Boat and Tote is having an extended moment 80 years after its introduction, thanks to a social media trend in which they're monogrammed with ironic or flashy phrases.

New Yorker Gracie Wiener helped get it started by ordering her humble bags from L.L. Bean monogrammed with “Psycho” and then “Prada,” the pricey Italian luxury brand, instead of just her name or initials, and posting about them on Instagram. Then others began showcasing their own unique bags on TikTok.

Soon, it wasn’t enough to have a bag monogrammed with “Schlepper,” “HOT MESS,” “slayyyy” or “cool mom.” Customers began testing the limits of the human censors in L.L. Bean’s monogram department, which bans profanity “or other objectionable words or phrases,” with more provocative wording like “Bite me,” “Dum Blonde” and “Ambitchous.”

Social media fueled the surge, just as it did for Stanley’s tumblers and Trader Joe’s $2.99 canvas bags, which were once selling on eBay for $200, said Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, which tracks consumer spending and trends.
The tote’s revival came at a time when price-conscious consumers were forgoing expensive handbags, sales of which have weakened, and L.L. Bean’s bag fit the bill as a functional item that’s trendy precisely because it’s not trendy, she said. L.L. Bean's regular bags top out at about $55, though some fancier versions cost upward of $100.
“There’s a trend toward the utilitarian, the simple things and more accessible price points,” she said, and the customization added to the appeal: “Status items don’t have to be designer price points.”

L.L. Bean’s tote was first advertised in a catalog as Bean’s Ice Carrier in 1944 during World War II, when ice chests were common. Then they disappeared before being reintroduced in 1965 as the Boat and Tote.

These days, they’re still made in Maine and are still capable of hauling 500 pounds of ice, but they are far more likely to carry laptops, headphones, groceries, books, beach gear, travel essentials and other common items.

Those snarky, pop-oriented phrases transformed them into a sassy essential and helped them spread beyond Maine, Massachusetts’ Cape Cod and other New England enclaves to places like Los Angeles and New York City, where fashionistas like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Sarah Jessica Parker are toting them — but not necessarily brandished with ironic phrases.

“It’s just one of those things that makes people smile and makes people laugh, and it’s unexpected,” said Wiener, who got it all started with her @ironicboatandtote Instagram page, which she started as a fun side hustle from her job as social media manager for Air Mail, a digital publication launched by former Vanity Fair Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter.

The folks at L.L. Bean were both stunned and pleased by the continuing growth. For the past two years, the Boat and Tote has been L.L. Bean’s No. 1 contributor to luring in new customers, and sales grew 64% from fiscal years 2021 to 2023, spokesperson Amanda Hannah said.

The surge in popularity is reminiscent of L.L. Bean’s traditional hunting shoe, the iconic staple for trudging through rain and muck, which enjoyed its own moment a few years back, driven by college students.