Valentino Cancels June Fashion Shows Following Piccioli’s Exit

A model presents a creation by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli as part of his Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Valentino during Men's Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 16, 2023. REUTERS/Claudia Greco
A model presents a creation by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli as part of his Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Valentino during Men's Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 16, 2023. REUTERS/Claudia Greco
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Valentino Cancels June Fashion Shows Following Piccioli’s Exit

A model presents a creation by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli as part of his Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Valentino during Men's Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 16, 2023. REUTERS/Claudia Greco
A model presents a creation by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli as part of his Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Valentino during Men's Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 16, 2023. REUTERS/Claudia Greco

Italian fashion house Valentino said on Monday that it would not present its Men's and Haute Couture fashion shows in June, following the departure of its creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

The group said on Friday it had agreed with Piccioli to end their collaboration, adding that a new "creative organization" would be announced soon.

"Following the latest organizational announcement regarding the Maison's Creative Direction, Valentino confirms that it will not present its upcoming Men’s and Haute Couture fashion shows in June 2024," the group said in a statement on Monday.

"Creativity will continue to lead the company as a key pillar, shaping new future collections ...", it added

Earlier on Monday fashion trade publication WWD reported that Gucci's creative director Alessandro Michele was negotiating with Valentino to take the role left by Piccioli, citing market sources.

Italian newspaper La Repubblica said on Monday that the contract with Michele had already been signed during the weekend, cited sources close to him.

Valentino declined to comment, while Michele could not immediately be reached for comment.

French luxury group Kering, which owns Gucci, bought a 30% stake in Valentino last year from Qatari investment fund Mayhoola with an option to buy the rest in five years.



LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
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LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights

Shares in LVMH (LVMH.PA) fell as much as 6.5% in early Wednesday trade and were on track for their biggest one-day drop since October 2023 after second-quarter sales growth at the French luxury goods giant missed analysts' consensus estimate.

The world's biggest luxury group said late Tuesday its quarterly sales rose 1% year on year to 20.98 billion euros ($22.76 billion), undershooting the 21.6 billion expected on average by analysts polled by LSEG.

At 1000 GMT, LVMH's shares were down 4.5%.

The earnings miss weighed on other luxury stocks, with Hermes (HRMS.PA), down around 2% and Kering (PRTP.PA), off 3%.

Kering is scheduled to report second-quarter sales after the market close and Hermes reports on Thursday, Reuters reported.

Jittery investors are looking for evidence that the industry will pick up from a recent slowdown, as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion.

JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini cut full year profit forecasts by 2-3% for the group, citing softer trends at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division, home to Louis Vuitton and Dior.

"The soft print is likely to add to ongoing investors’ concerns on the sector more broadly in our view, confirming that even best-in-class players like LVMH cannot be immune from the challenging backdrop," said Battistini in a note to clients.

The weakness of the yen, which has prompted a flood of Chinese shoppers to Japan seeking bargains on luxury goods, added pressure to margins, another source of concern.

Equita cut 2024 sales estimates for LVMH by 3% - attributing 1% to currency fluctuations - and lowered its second half organic sales estimate to 7% growth from 10% growth previously.

The lack of visibility for the second half beyond the easing of comparative figures - as the Chinese post-pandemic lockdown bounce tapered off a year ago - is unlikely to improve investor sentiment to the luxury sector, Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said in an email to clients.

"No miracle with the luxury bellwether; sector likely to remain out of favour," he wrote.

Jefferies analysts said the miss came as investors eye Chinese shoppers for their potential to "resume their pre-COVID role as the locomotive of industry growth and debate when Western consumers will have fully digested their COVID overspend".

LVMH shares have been volatile since the luxury slowdown emerged, and are down about 20% over the past year, with middle-class shoppers in China, the world's No. 2 economy, a key focus as they rein in purchases at home amid a property slump and job insecurity.

LVMH offered some reassurance, with finance chief Jean-Jacques Guiony telling analysts during a call on Tuesday that Chinese customers were "holding up quite well," while business with US and European customers was "slightly better".