Italy’s Benetton Plans Restructuring as Losses Mount, Sources Say

A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
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Italy’s Benetton Plans Restructuring as Losses Mount, Sources Say

A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)

Italy's Benetton family is readying plans to address mounting losses at its eponymous clothing retailer, including parting ways with CEO Massimo Renon after four years, two people close to the group said on Monday.

The board of the clothing group is expected to meet on Tuesday to discuss a net loss of around 230 million euros ($250 million) for 2023 which includes impairments, a source with knowledge of the matter told Reuters.

That compares with a net loss of 81 million euros in 2022, when revenues totaled 1 billion euros.

Benetton shareholders are then scheduled to meet on June 18, at which time Renon's CEO mandate will not be renewed, the two sources said.

Renon, who built his career in the eyewear industry working at Luxottica, Safilo and Marcolin, declined to comment.

The Benettons own the clothing group made famous by its colorful jumpers and provocative advertising campaigns through their Edizione holding company.

Edizione is preparing to back a restructuring of the clothing retailer and to inject 260 million euros, one of the sources said, adding that Edizione would exert closer control over the group.

Benetton has struggled to withstand growing competition from fast-fashion giants such as Zara owner Inditex which have developed a nimbler production and distribution model, able to more quickly respond to consumers' changing tastes.

In an interview with Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera on Saturday, Chairman Luciano Benetton, one of its founders, said the group had been expected to break even in 2023 under a three-year strategic plan, but a worse than expected financial situation had emerged in recent months.

Luciano Benetton told Corriere that current management, led by Renon, had surprised the board by unveiling a "dramatic" shortfall.

Founded in 1965 by Italy's Benetton family as a clothing manufacturer, Benetton expanded to trade through around 4,000 shops globally, according to its website. After listing the group in Milan in 1986, the Benettons took it private in 2012, the last year in which it made a profit.



Analysts: Shein's Planned Hong Kong Listing to Benefit from Wider Capital Pool

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a rail of clothing on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a rail of clothing on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
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Analysts: Shein's Planned Hong Kong Listing to Benefit from Wider Capital Pool

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a rail of clothing on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a rail of clothing on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo

Shein's planned listing in Hong Kong will help the online fast-fashion retailer avoid sharp investor scrutiny of its supply chains while tapping into capital from the mainland and emerging market investors, analysts said.

The Singapore-headquartered company has turned its public market debut ambitions to Hong Kong after failing to win Chinese securities regulatory approval to proceed with a London initial public offering, Reuters reported last month, citing sources.

While a listing, if successful, would be a big boost for Hong Kong, the move would cast a cloud over the company's efforts in recent years to gain legitimacy as a global, rather than a Chinese company. Shein, which sells products including $5 bike shorts and $18 sundresses, has faced political and environmental group pressure in the UK over its cotton sourcing and supply chain practices.

It has also faced allegations that its clothes contain cotton from China's Xinjiang region, where the US and NGOs have accused the Chinese government of human rights abuses and forced labor. Beijing denies any abuses.

The company, which moved its headquarters from China to Singapore in 2022, has previously said it has a zero-tolerance policy for forced labor and requires its contract manufacturers to only source cotton from approved regions.

"If it is the only option now open to them, the Hong Kong market does make sense as a place where you could list a global business with a mainland supply chain," said Eliot Fisk, a Hong Kong capital markets consultant and former JPMorgan banker.

Shein did not respond to a Reuters request for comment. Before its attempt to list in London, Shein had pursued a listing in New York. The China-founded company had also faced regulatory hurdles and pushback from US lawmakers in its attempt to list in the United States.

"Listing in Hong Kong would also likely dodge the protests and political pushback it might face in the UK," said Craig Coben, former Bank of America co-head of capital markets in Hong Kong.

While it is not known whether Shein plans to seek any waivers for a potential Hong Kong listing, several waivers, including disclosure-related waivers, can be sought by large IPO hopefuls in the Asian financial hub, according to capital market lawyers.

A Hong Kong listing would also allow Shein to eventually be added to the city's Stock Connect scheme which gives easier access for mainland and Hong Kong-based investors to buy shares on each country's respective markets more easily.

Shein would easily meet the market capitalization and other criteria for inclusion in the connect scheme and for attracting mainland investment, said Hong Kong-based advisory firm Emmer Capital Partners CEO Manishi Raychaudhuri.

There was a 255% year-on-year increase in average daily turnover in the first three months of the year in Southbound trading, mainland investors buying and selling Hong Kong stocks, the Hong Kong Exchange said in its first quarter results.

"Hong Kong would have a dominant presence of Asia and emerging market-focused investors. London on the other hand, would have a significant presence of global and developed market investors," Raychaudhuri said.

"The supply chain issues would have been a more important consideration for the latter set of investors."