Italy’s Benetton Plans Restructuring as Losses Mount, Sources Say

A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
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Italy’s Benetton Plans Restructuring as Losses Mount, Sources Say

A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)
A logo of United Colors of Benetton is seen in front of a store in Rome, Italy, July 21, 2020. (Reuters)

Italy's Benetton family is readying plans to address mounting losses at its eponymous clothing retailer, including parting ways with CEO Massimo Renon after four years, two people close to the group said on Monday.

The board of the clothing group is expected to meet on Tuesday to discuss a net loss of around 230 million euros ($250 million) for 2023 which includes impairments, a source with knowledge of the matter told Reuters.

That compares with a net loss of 81 million euros in 2022, when revenues totaled 1 billion euros.

Benetton shareholders are then scheduled to meet on June 18, at which time Renon's CEO mandate will not be renewed, the two sources said.

Renon, who built his career in the eyewear industry working at Luxottica, Safilo and Marcolin, declined to comment.

The Benettons own the clothing group made famous by its colorful jumpers and provocative advertising campaigns through their Edizione holding company.

Edizione is preparing to back a restructuring of the clothing retailer and to inject 260 million euros, one of the sources said, adding that Edizione would exert closer control over the group.

Benetton has struggled to withstand growing competition from fast-fashion giants such as Zara owner Inditex which have developed a nimbler production and distribution model, able to more quickly respond to consumers' changing tastes.

In an interview with Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera on Saturday, Chairman Luciano Benetton, one of its founders, said the group had been expected to break even in 2023 under a three-year strategic plan, but a worse than expected financial situation had emerged in recent months.

Luciano Benetton told Corriere that current management, led by Renon, had surprised the board by unveiling a "dramatic" shortfall.

Founded in 1965 by Italy's Benetton family as a clothing manufacturer, Benetton expanded to trade through around 4,000 shops globally, according to its website. After listing the group in Milan in 1986, the Benettons took it private in 2012, the last year in which it made a profit.



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.