Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
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Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo

Italy's competition authority said on Wednesday it had begun an investigation into luxury fashion groups Armani and Dior over the alleged exploitation of workers in their supply chain.
In June and April, Milan prosecutors ordered that several Chinese-owned firms in Italy - producing luxury goods for Dior and Armani - be placed under administration, accusing them of systematically abusing their employees.
The regulator alleged that Armani and Dior "emphasized the craftmanship and the excellence of their workmanship" while relying on workshops employing people on inadequate salaries, working long hours and in violation of health and safety rules.
The probe focused on some companies of the Armani Group and the LVMH-controlled Dior Group, and inspections were carried out at the companies on Tuesday, Reuters quoted the agency as saying.
"The (Armani and Dior) companies may have made untrue ethical and social responsibility claims, in particular with regard to working conditions and compliance with legality at their suppliers," the antitrust agency said.
They were placed under investigation "for possible unlawful conduct in the promotion and sale of articles and clothing accessories, in breach of the (Italian) Consumer Code," it said.
Armani and LVMH did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Breaches of the consumer code are punishable with fines ranging from 5,000 euros ($5,456) to 10 million euros ($10.91 million).
The luxury industry's supply chain has come under increased scrutiny by consumers and investors in recent years. To reduce risks to their reputation, fashion labels have curbed the number of sub-contractors and brought production in-house.
Italy's antitrust agency also polices consumer rights and unfair commercial practices. Last year, it fined companies owned by fashion influencer Chiara Ferragni almost 1.1 million euros over misleading charity claims on a Ferragni-branded Christmas cake.



Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
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Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo

Shares of Kering traded down 5% in European morning trade on Thursday, after the group reported a first-quarter sales drop that was worse than analysts' expectations.

Kering after the market close on Wednesday posted a 14% decline in sales, with a 25% drop at flagship label Gucci, the latest signal the luxury sector faces another tough year.

The sales report confirmed "a weakening backdrop" since February, said analysts at Jefferies, noting "the uncertainties around reigniting Gucci's desirability remain plentiful".

The brand, which accounts for around two-thirds of group profits, is betting on in-house talent Demna to revive sales, but new designs will only arrive gradually at the end of the year, Reuters reported.

The French luxury group flagged worsening sales in North America and Western Europe and said it expected sales to continue to fall in double digits, percentage-wise, in the second quarter, before starting to improve.

This leaves the "heavy lifting" for the second half, which will likely depend on a recovery in Chinese demand, noted analysts at Bernstein.

Prospects for the luxury industry, which had pinned hopes on growth from the United States to help pull it out of a slump as the Chinese market remains weak, have been darkened by recession fears prompted by US President Donald Trump's tariff announcements.

As trade tensions have risen, Bellwether LVMH has fallen 23% and Burberry and Kering have both lost 30% since the start of the year. Hermes and Cartier-owner Richemont, viewed by analysts as better insulated from economic downturns because of their wealthier clientele, are up 1% and 3%, respectively.

First-quarter reports from Kering's larger rivals last week also reflected the sector's slowdown and disappointed investors, with sales at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division down 5% while Hermes, which routinely outpaces expectations with double-digit growth, posted a 7% rise.

Analysts at Deutsche Bank on Thursday lowered their 2025 earnings per share estimate for Kering this year by 13% to 8.65 euros ($9.84), citing the company's cautious outlook for the first half, and noting the slowdown in all regions except Asia was slightly worse than peers.

TD Cowen lowered sales forecasts for Gucci this year by 15% to a 20% decline.

The analysts added that Gucci, as well as another Kering label Yves Saint Laurent, were expected to be slower to raise prices to offset tariffs than peers. The Kering labels have a broader base of less-wealthy clients who are more reluctant to splash out in a choppy economic environment.

LVMH, meanwhile, has raised prices of some Louis Vuitton handbags and leather goods by around 4% according to Bernstein and Barclays, while Hermes said it will pass on the full effect of tariffs to shoppers in the United States on May 1.

US tariffs could include a 20% charge on European fashion and leather goods and 31% for Swiss-produced watches if fully applied, but Trump earlier this month paused most of his tariffs for 90 days, setting a general 10% duty rate instead.

The price hikes from Vuitton are "more than enough" to offset even 20% tariffs, said Bernstein.