Elie Saab Unveils Luxurious Safari Chic Spring Collection in Paris

 Models wear creations as part of the Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in Paris. (AP)
Models wear creations as part of the Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in Paris. (AP)
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Elie Saab Unveils Luxurious Safari Chic Spring Collection in Paris

 Models wear creations as part of the Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in Paris. (AP)
Models wear creations as part of the Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in Paris. (AP)

Lebanese designer Elie Saab unveiled his spring collection on Saturday at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo, elevating the concept of safari chic to luxurious while keeping the camp firmly in check.

Here are some highlights of Saturday's ready-to-wear collections:

Elie Saab takes us on a sultry journey

Saab’s collection blew away any expectations of colonial nostalgia, just like the harmattan gusts he drew inspiration from. Instead, what we got was a mesmerizing journey through the African savannah that felt fresh, vibrant, and completely devoid of tired clichés. This was no ordinary safari chic—Saab took the concept and injected it with his signature luxury, letting it roar in all the right ways while keeping the camp firmly in check.

Right from the start, Saab showed he wasn’t afraid to play with the safari staples—but with a twist. Safari suits, reimagined as roomy linen separates and sleek crepe jumpsuits, traded their usual khaki for the blazing red of fireball lilies, moody elephant gray, and the ochre dust of West Africa. It was a palette that brought the raw, natural beauty of the continent to life without falling into the predictable tropes. These looks weren’t the romanticized garb of the intrepid explorer; they were effortlessly chic, perfectly fitted for today’s cosmopolitan adventurer.

Then came the raffia—oh, the raffia! Saab worked magic with this plant fiber, weaving it into low-slung skirts and minidresses with faint bubble hems that felt light and breezy, yet utterly luxurious. It also made an appearance as fern embroideries on floor-grazing tulle gowns, adding texture and depth that felt delightfully organic. It was these delicate, thoughtful touches that took this collection beyond just a thematic exercise and elevated it to something exquisite.

Hermes’ gentle geometry

Vanhee-Cybulski’s Hermes collection reimagined spring with a palette of warm golden beiges and earthy autumnal hues, a bold choice that immediately set the collection apart. Gentle geometry shaped the garments — myriad squares and architectural forms that fused seamlessly with Hermes signature minimalism. This interplay was reinforced by the striking wooden backdrop, enhancing the atmosphere of sophisticated restraint.

Vanhee-Cybulski leaned into a refined sensuality with sheer mesh trousers that transformed at a flick of a zip and featherweight leather jackets that seemed almost ethereal. These pieces paired athletic ease with luxury, demonstrating her skill in blending delicacy with bold, structured shapes. Utilitarian details, like buckled belts and boxy, pocket-laden shirts, underscored the collection’s grounding in practicality, even amid its more daring expressions of sensuality.

Throughout, Vanhee-Cybulski captured the lightness that spring calls for—luxurious reinterpretations of Hermes’ iconic silk scarves, transformed into breezy shirtdresses and rompers, embodied a carefree spirit ready for sunlit escapes. Warm neutrals dominated, echoing a feeling of being sun-soaked, while her activewear-inspired pieces conveyed a relaxed, summer-ready attitude without compromising on elegance.

The footwear, always a standout for Hermes, carried this ethos further. Sleek riding boots offered a solid foundation to the collection’s grounded luxury, while clog sandals brought a playful, modern twist.

Westwood's controlled chaos

Vivienne Westwood’s spirit lived on in Paris this season, as Andreas Kronthaler brought a masterful interplay of rebellion, history, and glam rock energy to the runway. The spring collection opened with sparkling pants paired with a silky blue bodice, a nod to the late designer’s love of bold, unexpected contrasts—a brilliant start that practically screamed rock ‘n’ roll chic. Kronthaler clearly hasn’t lost his taste for the dramatic, diving headfirst into the kind of fierce, confrontational style that made Westwood an icon.

A giant silver chain, dangling almost absurdly to the model’s knees, set the tone: a clear statement of raw, unapologetic power, in course with the punk ethos of the 80s that still courses through this house’s veins. And there, of course, were the signature Westwood suits and Grecian-style draped dresses—classic shapes that carried a dynamic energy and timeless rebellion, reminiscent of the archival references that have defined Kronthaler’s tenure. These silhouettes bore the same sense of timeless radicalism seen in Kronthaler’s reinterpretations of Westwood’s personal wardrobe last fall, where each garment seemed to transcend fleeting trends.

Clashing checks—a staple of the Westwood lexicon—made their mark, giving the collection an urban, gritty edge that felt distinctly true to the house’s rebellious spirit.

Whimsy had its moment in the shape of a giant tulle headpiece, soaring high and embodying an ’80s bridal punk vision—a dizzying height of contradiction that no one but Westwood’s house could make look so irreverently sophisticated. This playful chaos echoed past seasons, where Kronthaler has embraced an eclectic mishmash of themes—from historical doublets to modern macramé cloaks. This time, however, there was a sense of restraint. It was a more controlled affair, one that saw Kronthaler tightening his narrative, perhaps reflecting a shift toward emotional homage rather than spectacle alone.



Birkin Bag Maker Hermes End of Year Sales Jump

A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
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Birkin Bag Maker Hermes End of Year Sales Jump

A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)

French luxury group Hermes reported an 18% rise in fourth quarter sales on Friday, showing robust appetite from wealthy shoppers for the most expensive luxury items like its Birkin bags, which cost upwards of $10,000.

Hermes continues to outshine rivals like LVMH and Kering-owned Gucci thanks to its wealthier customers as the industry suffers its slowest sales in years. Global luxury sales fell around 2% last year, hurt by a property crisis crimping spending in China and inflation-weary shoppers elsewhere.

"We are celebrating an excellent year, in a tougher environment," Axel Dumas, executive chairman, told journalists on a call.

Sales for the fourth quarter came to 3.96 billion euros ($4.14 billion), an 18% rise at constant exchange rates, accelerating in the important end of year period, with the fastest growth in the Americas and Japan.

The growth beat analyst expectations for a 10% rise, according to a Visible Alpha consensus cited by UBS.

The Hermes leather goods and saddlery division, which accounts for nearly half of group revenue, grew the fastest, up 21.5%. Analysts had expected a rise of 13%.

The double-digit growth at Hermes contrasts with LVMH's 1% rise over the last three months of the year.

Hermes also reported 9% growth in sales in the Asia region excluding Japan, the label's biggest market, despite the downturn in traffic in Greater China seen since the end of the first quarter of 2024.

Dumas added, however, that it was "too early to see an inflection" in the industry, despite some positive signs.

Hermes is known for its tight grip on production, sticking to an annual increase of around 6-7% a year, with order backlogs cushioning it from falling demand while holding up the label's exclusive aura.

Sales in the Americas region clocked 22.3% growth, matching growth in Japan.

Asked about the impact from potential US tariffs on European goods, Dumas said the company would not adjust its production.

"We are attached to keeping our production where it is," he said, citing France for leather goods, Switzerland for watches and Italy for shoes.

"We'll adapt to tariffs, and raise prices accordingly," he added.

The company is raising prices 6-7% this year to reflect higher production costs and exchange rates, Dumas added.