Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
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Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)

Forty years after its founding, Japanese clothing retailer Uniqlo has more than 2,500 stores worldwide. Sales at its parent company, Fast Retailing Co., recently topped 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) annually for the first time.

The name Uniqlo comes from joining the words for “unique” and “clothing.” The chain’s basic concept is “LifeWear,” or everyday clothing. Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Chief Executive Tadashi Yanai, ranked by Forbes as Japan’s richest man and estimated to be worth $48 billion, spoke recently to The Associated Press at the company’s Tokyo headquarters. The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Q: What were the biggest challenges over the past 40 years?

A: Actually 40 years, upon reflection, went by so fast they feel more like three years. You know what they say in Japan: Time flies like an arrow. I started a regional business, then expanded nationwide.

When we became No. 2 or No. 3 in Japan’s casual wear, and being No. 1 was right within reach, we became a listed company in 1994. That was followed by our fleece boom, which doubled our revenue in one year to 400 billion yen ($2.6 billion).

I’d been thinking about going global when our revenue reached 300 billion yen ($2 billion) so we opened 50 stores in Great Britain, hoping to be a winner there just like we had conquered Japan.

Instead, we got totally knocked out.

We opened 21 outlets in a year and a half, but had to close 16 of them, leaving just five. We didn’t succeed as we had hoped. This is not an easy job. It’s very tough.

But these days, our sales are strongest in London, and also Paris. We made progress gradually.

Q: What are some of the sustainability and other key issues you have faced over the years?

A: We make clothes that last a long time. Not just clothes that last for one season.

The cashmere sweater I’m wearing today is $99. But please don’t say “cheap.” Please call it “reasonable.” We sell quality products at reasonable prices.

We’ve done various sustainability efforts, and we talk only about what we have really achieved.

Sustainability is crucial to our operations. And we’ve done just about everything — recycling, employing the disabled, support for refugees.

The prices may be cheaper at Wal-Mart, but our products offer real quality for the price. We take the greatest care and time, and involve a lot of people. Our rivals are more careless.

Q: What is behind Uniqlo’s success and what resonated with global buyers?

A: When we say Uniqlo is “made for all,” one might imagine products for the masses, like what’s at a Wal-Mart or a Target.

But what we mean is a high-quality product that appeals to all people, including the extremely rich, not only those with sophisticated taste and intelligence, but also people who don’t know that much about clothes, and the design is fine-tuned, the material fine quality, and sustainability concerns have been addressed.

We were first a retailer, then a manufacturer-cum-retailer. Now we are a digital consumer retailer. That is why we are successful. If we had stayed the same, then we can’t hope to succeed.

Being a digital consumer retail company means we utilize information at a high level to shape the way we do our work. We gain information about our customers, the workers at the store, the market, all that information.

Changing daily is the only way we can hope for stable growth. The world is changing every day.

Q: Are you confident you can keep it up another 40 years?

A: Of course. We’ve been preparing to reach 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) revenue all these years. And we are finally starting to be known. But we still have a long way to go.

We are just getting started, and we are going to keep growing. There is more potential for growth in Europe and the US, as well as China and India, given the 1.4 billion population in each country. Clothing is a necessity, so population size is key.



Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi Homecoming Feted in Milan

 Fendi's Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is pictured at the end of the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026/2027 in Milan on February 25, 2026. (AFP)
Fendi's Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is pictured at the end of the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026/2027 in Milan on February 25, 2026. (AFP)
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Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi Homecoming Feted in Milan

 Fendi's Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is pictured at the end of the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026/2027 in Milan on February 25, 2026. (AFP)
Fendi's Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is pictured at the end of the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026/2027 in Milan on February 25, 2026. (AFP)

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri marked her return to Fendi at Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, presenting a sensual and lightweight collection featuring "remodelled" furs and leathers crafted like lace.

The homecoming of the respected designer -- the first ever woman at the creative helm of Dior and a veteran of Valentino -- was one of the city's most anticipated events on day two of fashion week, with actors Monica Bellucci and Jude Law in the front row along with Fendi ambassador Bang Chan of the Korean boy band Stray Kids.

An experienced designer who has worked for Dior and Valentino, Chiuri received a standing ovation after Wednesday's runway show, some 35 years after her debut at the Roman fashion house.

Chiuri began her career in accessories at the luxury label, where fashion great Karl Lagerfeld presided for over 50 years and which is now owned by French fashion conglomerate LVMH.

"I am here to give back what they have given me," the designer told Vogue magazine this week of the Fendi sisters behind the business.

The designer's first Autumn-Winter collection, for both men and women, featured black, white and green furs, all restyled, and a minimalist color palette of mostly black, white and pale blue.

With delicately flowing slip dresses -- including a scarlet one that could have been in homage to the late Valentino -- and peekaboo lace, Chiuri explained that she wanted to present a "personal geography" of fashion, highlighting Fendi's history and collaboration with other designers, a method she had already successfully championed at Dior.

With stiff shirt collars worn as necklaces by women -- paired with plunging necklines -- and oversized furs for men, Chiuri also hoped to "go beyond the distinction between women's and men's wardrobes".

The designer collaborated with young artist SAGG Napoli for football T-shirts and scarves with slogans in Italian such as "Rooted but not stuck" or "Loyal but not obedient".

A dozen anti-fur activists demonstrated outside Fendi's Milan headquarters where the show was held, calling on Milan Fashion Week to ban fur, as London and New York have done.

Chiuri, a Rome native, began at Fendi in 1989 as an accessories designer, working side by side with Pierpaolo Piccioli to mark the beginning a long collaboration.

Coming to Valentino in 1999, Chiuri spent the next 17 years at the Roman design house, serving as co-creative director with Piccioli upon the retirement of Valentino Garavani in 2008.

Named to head Dior in 2016 after Raf Simons, Chiuri became the first woman creative director of the storied French couture house, bringing an unapologetic feminist and global eye in reworking Christian Dior's celebrated hourglass silhouette.

How the designer would envision her task at Fendi -- whose roots are in fur and leather goods -- following the departure of artistic director Kim Jones in 2024 had been much discussed in fashion circles.


Frenzy of Fashion Week to Add to Milan’s Olympic Party 

The company's logo is seen at a Prada store in Zurich, Switzerland January 25, 2021. (Reuters)
The company's logo is seen at a Prada store in Zurich, Switzerland January 25, 2021. (Reuters)
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Frenzy of Fashion Week to Add to Milan’s Olympic Party 

The company's logo is seen at a Prada store in Zurich, Switzerland January 25, 2021. (Reuters)
The company's logo is seen at a Prada store in Zurich, Switzerland January 25, 2021. (Reuters)

The fashion set return to Milan this week, bringing back glamor and runway revelry to Italy's northern city that has been wrapped up in Olympics fever.

Hundreds of buyers and media from around the world will descend on the fashion capital beginning Tuesday for Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026-2027 and its more than 50 catwalk shows from top Italian luxury names like Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Giorgio Armani.

The upcoming shows, which run through March 2, come during a "moment of extraordinary visibility for Milan", sandwiched between the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics and the Paralympic Games, Mayor Giuseppe Sala told journalists earlier this month.

Fashion watchers are eagerly awaiting the first collection of veteran Dior and Valentino designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Fendi, the Rome-based luxury label where she began her career 35 years ago, now owned by French fashion conglomerate LVMH.

And eyes will be on the Gucci runway to see if the debut looks presented by new artistic director Demna Gvasalia, formerly of Balenciaga, are compelling enough to help reverse a protracted sales slump at Kering's flagship brand.

The week's festivities will be a welcome distraction from a myriad of challenges facing the luxury fashion industry, which has struggled against a two-year global slowdown in demand, fueled by high inflation, economic turbulence and geopolitical uncertainty.

A warning from LVMH Chief Executive Bernard Arnault last month that "2026 won't be simple either" points to the difficulty of a sector recovery.

The president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, Carla Capasa, told journalists this month that revenue in Italy's fashion industry was estimated to rise in 2026 by a mere 1 percent.

The industry has also seen the recent passing of two designer giants, who enjoyed outsized influence on the world of fashion and exemplified the art of Italian tailoring.

Giorgio Armani, 91, died in September and Valentino Garavani, known just as Valentino, died in January aged 93.

- Green, white, red -

The Olympics opening ceremony paid tribute to Armani, whose Emporio Armani brand has dressed Italy's Olympic athletes since 2012. Willowy models dressed in satin suits of green, white and red paraded across the stage in three lines, mirroring the Italian tricolor flag.

Top Italian model Vittoria Ceretti was flag bearer, wearing a high-collared white Armani gown that recalled that worn by Carla Bruni for Italy's last Winter Olympics in Turin in 2006.

Official marketing for Milan Fashion Week has also tapped Olympics fever, with billboards featuring brooding models in an Alpine landscape, carrying vintage iceskates, skis and other sports equipment hailing from the Olympic Museum in Lausanne, Switzerland.

Milan is expected to get a financial boost of 320 million euros ($380 million) from the Winter Games, while the February fashion week typically brings in about 200 million euros, according to Milan city council member Alessia Cappello.

"The two things influence each other. Some people come for fashion and stay for the Olympics, or vice versa."


Demna in the Spotlight at Milan Fashion Week as Industry Seeks Creative Reset

The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. (Reuters)
The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. (Reuters)
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Demna in the Spotlight at Milan Fashion Week as Industry Seeks Creative Reset

The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. (Reuters)
The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. (Reuters)

Milan ‌Fashion Week opens on Tuesday, setting the stage for a slate of creative director debuts from Demna's first runway show for Gucci to Maria Grazia Chiuri's initial collection at Fendi.

The Milan womenswear collections, which follow fashion weeks in New York and London, and ahead of Paris, come as the sector is showing some timid signs of recovery.

While practical wool coats and cashmere sweater dresses featured in New York, industry watchers expect some bold creations in the Milan autumn/winter collections as new designers seek to stamp their mark.

One of the most closely watched will be Georgian designer Demna, hired in July to reinvigorate Gucci after sales at the Italian fashion house fell 22% last ‌year.

Demna, who spent ‌a decade at Balenciaga, sketched out a collection for Kering-owned ‌Gucci, ⁠called "La Famiglia", in a ⁠lookbook on Instagram last September. He stages his first full-scale runway show for the brand on Friday.

Designers across luxury fashion face mounting pressure to deliver fresh visions while keeping a tight focus on sales as the industry is still trying to pull out of a prolonged downturn.

"This season we are expecting bold creative resets. The anticipation around new creative directions makes this edition particularly charged, with houses redefining their codes under intense ⁠global scrutiny," said Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion ‌venture officer at luxury e-commerce platform Mytheresa.

"We are ‌looking for collections that feel culturally sharp, emotionally resonant, and commercially intelligent in equal measure", she ‌added.

BALANCING HERITAGE AND CREATIVITY

Chiuri's first collection for LVMH’s Fendi on Wednesday, following her ‌departure from Dior last year, is expected to draw close scrutiny.

On Thursday, Belgian designer Meryll Rogge will present her first show for Marni, owned by Italian fashion group OTB.

A sharp increase in prices of luxury goods post-pandemic, which was not matched by an equal effort ‌in creativity, has alienated some customers, whom brands are now struggling to win back.

"All of them (brands) are thinking more commercially - they're ⁠all trying to ⁠get revenue to grow. But ultimately what is defining for all of these businesses is the brand and the heritage, which has to be supported by creativity in the product. So it needs to be a careful balance between the two," said Emily Cooledge, head of luxury research at Rothschild & Co Redburn in London.

Francesco Fiorese, partner at consultancy firm Simon Kucher, said consumers want more understated quality.

"Consumers' fatigue with omnipresent logos and purely aesthetic 'status symbols' (sold at very high prices) is leading to a search for authenticity and craftsmanship," he said.

Milan Fashion Week will also feature shows by Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Ferragamo and Tod's.

It follows the Milan Cortina Winter Games, which have put Italy’s fashion capital in the global spotlight and offered brands a chance to appeal to affluent visitors arriving for the competitions.