Power Cuts in Syrian Capital Drive Workers, Students to Cafes 

Students Shadi (L), Pierre (C) and George study at a cafe in the Syrian capital Damascus on January 30, 2023. (AFP)
Students Shadi (L), Pierre (C) and George study at a cafe in the Syrian capital Damascus on January 30, 2023. (AFP)
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Power Cuts in Syrian Capital Drive Workers, Students to Cafes 

Students Shadi (L), Pierre (C) and George study at a cafe in the Syrian capital Damascus on January 30, 2023. (AFP)
Students Shadi (L), Pierre (C) and George study at a cafe in the Syrian capital Damascus on January 30, 2023. (AFP)

Majida has been working from a central Damascus cafe almost every day for a year, depending on it for reliable electricity and wifi in a country plagued by debilitating power cuts.

"Without cafes, I would have been unable to work because of the long blackouts at home," said the graphic designer, 42, declining to provide her surname.

Enterprising owners have upgraded their businesses with generators and batteries to guarantee power and draw in Damascenes plagued by Syria's war-battered and crumbling infrastructure.

"I need a continuous power supply (to work) -- and I get my inspiration from the people here," added Majida, drawing designs on a tablet on the cafe's sofa.

Nearly 13 years of war have hammered Syria's infrastructure, including power stations and energy pipelines, leading to power outages that can drag on for up to 20 hours a day.

Key oil and gas fields in the country's northeast have not been under government control for years, while Western sanctions have hampered resource imports and strained public funds.

In 2021, Economy Minister Samer al-Khalil said energy sector losses since 2011 amounted to around "$100 billion in direct and indirect damages".

In the Syrian capital, the shortages have sparked a boom in cafes turned informal co-working spaces for electricity hungry workers and students.

At Flow Space Coffee, a colorful cafe with a quiet, studious ambiance, customers including Majida type on laptops or sip coffee while shuffling through papers.

'A necessity'

The owner, Ihsan Azmeh, 38, whose friendly white dog Lilly is also a regular, said he wanted the cafe to be a place for young workers and students when he opened it three years ago.

"Damascus cafes solve at least three problems for people these days: electricity, internet and heating," he said.

Azmeh has rearranged the furniture to accommodate a growing number of workers seeking makeshift offices, with benches resembling school desks and a large rectangular table for meetings.

He bought a generator and has installed a battery system that kicks in when state power drops out, ensuring a constant electricity supply. Azmeh also doubled the number of outlets for charging mobile phones and other devices.

"I often find myself sleeping at the cafe instead of heading home" to avoid long power cuts, he added.

Across the city in the eastern neighborhood of Bab Tuma, known for its cafes and bars, Saint-Michel Coffee has also become a haven for freelancers and students.

Visiting the cafe "is not an option for me, but a necessity" said George Kassari, 18, a computer science student at Damascus University.

"As soon as I arrive, I take out all my devices to charge them," he said, adding that he and his sister often recharge each other's electronics at the cafe.

'Only solution'

Muhammad Sabahi, a student who works as a website developer for a company in the Gulf, was preparing for an online meeting at a table nearby.

"I work from the cafe every day," said the 22-year-old, adding: "I now have a fixed seat here, employees know my favorite drink by heart and they begin making it as soon as I arrive."

If not for the coffee shop, "I would have failed my university exams and lost my job," he said.

"This is the only solution for me and many of my friends," he added, a large bag filled with chargers, cables and other necessities sitting beside him.

Medical student Shadi Elias, 18, said he chased sunlight around his home by day and read his textbooks by torchlight at night, heading to the nearest coffee shop whenever the batteries ran out.

"Cafes are crowded during the exam periods, so I make sure to come early," he said, sitting near a chalkboard with drawings of lightbulbs reading "battery-powered".

"This place turns into a big classroom -- we borrow pens, papers, books and sometimes even phone chargers from each other," he said with a smile.



Syrian Artist Destroys Statue Outside UN in Political Message

The United Nations flag flies at half-mast at the European headquarters, honouring the more than 100 employees killed in Gaza since the Israel-Hamas war began last month in Geneva, Switzerland, November 13, 2023. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse Purchase Licensing Rights
The United Nations flag flies at half-mast at the European headquarters, honouring the more than 100 employees killed in Gaza since the Israel-Hamas war began last month in Geneva, Switzerland, November 13, 2023. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse Purchase Licensing Rights
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Syrian Artist Destroys Statue Outside UN in Political Message

The United Nations flag flies at half-mast at the European headquarters, honouring the more than 100 employees killed in Gaza since the Israel-Hamas war began last month in Geneva, Switzerland, November 13, 2023. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse Purchase Licensing Rights
The United Nations flag flies at half-mast at the European headquarters, honouring the more than 100 employees killed in Gaza since the Israel-Hamas war began last month in Geneva, Switzerland, November 13, 2023. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse Purchase Licensing Rights

Syrian sculptor Khaled Dawwa on Friday destroyed his giant artwork outside the United Nations office in Geneva to denounce tens of thousands of enforced disappearances in Syria.

Using saws and hammers, relatives of disappeared Syrians helped the artist break apart the wood, plaster and foam statue on the International Day of the Disappeared.

"We are here to protest against the system, to say, 'enough'. We have a right to know the truth," the 39-year-old sculptor, who lives in exile in France, told AFP.

Dawwa's 3.5 metre (11ft 6 inch) - high colossus, "The King of Holes", depicted a potentate with a massive body, reflecting the artist's condemnation of oppressive power, before it was thrashed to pieces.

The idea for the protest came from rights group Syria Campaign, which suggested that Dawwa tear down the installation outside the UN headquarters.

He created it in 2021 in Paris with the intention of demolishing it later. "It is a fragile piece that is difficult to keep," he said.

Dawwa took part in Syria's demonstrations in 2012 that escalated into a bloody, protracted war.

He was in his studio in May 2013 when he was severely wounded by bullet fragments from a government helicopter and jailed for two months after leaving hospital. Echoing the conflict, the legs, face and arms of the artwork are riddled with small holes.

Amongst the rights campaigners on site was Wafa Mustafa, 34, who has not heard from her father since he was arrested in 2013.

"This statue, to all the Syrian families here, does not represent only the Assad regime" which is mainly "responsible for the detention of our loved ones", the Syria Campaign activist told AFP.

"But also it represents the international community and the UN that has failed us for the past 13 years" and "has not provided any real action to stop the massacre in Syria, and to give Syrians their basic human rights," she said.

Around 100,000 people have disappeared in the Syria as part of government repression or kidnappings by anti-regime militias, according to several non-profit organizations.

Ahmad Helmi, 34, said he had fled Syria after he was arrested by the country's secret services as a university student, and jailed for three years.

He followed Dawwa to Geneva to help him destroy the statue.

"The pain of three years in prison, three years of torture... doesn't count to one day of the pain my mum experienced every single day when I was disappeared," said Helmi.

"Hundreds of thousands of families and mothers are in Syria and around the world today experiencing the same pain," he added.

The Syrian war began after the repression of anti-government protests in 2011 and spiralled into a complex conflict drawing in foreign armies and militants, killing more than 500,000 people and displacing millions.

Dawwa says the statue's holes are like those made by "animals that eat wood".

"For me, that's like hope," he said. "There is always something that eats at it."