Decades on, War-Scarred Beirut Buildings Remain

Graffiti by Cuban-American artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada depicting a boy is painted on a bullet riddled building on the former frontline of Lebanese civil war in downtown Beirut. (AP)
Graffiti by Cuban-American artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada depicting a boy is painted on a bullet riddled building on the former frontline of Lebanese civil war in downtown Beirut. (AP)
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Decades on, War-Scarred Beirut Buildings Remain

Graffiti by Cuban-American artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada depicting a boy is painted on a bullet riddled building on the former frontline of Lebanese civil war in downtown Beirut. (AP)
Graffiti by Cuban-American artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada depicting a boy is painted on a bullet riddled building on the former frontline of Lebanese civil war in downtown Beirut. (AP)

They are a common sight around Beirut, but their presence barely registers with Lebanese citizens anymore.

Nearly 30 years after civil war guns fell silent, dozens of bullet-scarred, shell-pocked buildings are still standing — testimony to a brutal conflict that raged for 15 years and took the lives of 150,000 people, said an Associated Press report Friday.

Some are Beirut landmarks, like the iconic Holiday Inn, a hulking, bullet-riddled blue and white building that towers over the capital.

The hotel, which opened for business just two years before the war broke out on April 13, 1975, was destroyed early on during battles between rival factions and used as a sniper's nest. It has stood deserted and untouched since then, its shareholders locked in a dispute over its future.

There's the modernist movie theater that never was, nicknamed locally "The Egg." Its moldy skeleton stands as a ruin, its future unclear. Like the Holiday Inn, it is a curious attraction for visiting foreigners.

There are also a few remaining residential buildings located along the former Green Line, which separated the mainly Muslim part of West Beirut from the predominantly Christian part, their ravaged facades a testimony to the horrors witnessed many years ago. They still stand, either because their owners have no money to fix them, or because of disputes over ownership.

"Seeing these buildings is like being slapped in the face," said Sahar Mandour, a Lebanese journalist and a writer. "You're walking around going about your daily business when suddenly you come face to face with a scene that takes you back to the old days."

Unlike others who dislike the sight of these buildings and think they should be demolished, Mandour, 42, says it's important that they stay for the nation's collective memory, to never forget a war that pitted Palestinians against Lebanese, Christians against Muslims, Christians against Christians and every other combination possible. Israel also stepped in, adding to the destruction, said the AP.

"For a foreigner, it is a destroyed building. For us, it is a painful reminder of the bullets that pierced our bodies, streets and walls," Mandour says. "I don't want these buildings to disappear, their mission is not over yet."

Not everyone feels the same. A woman who rents an apartment in a bullet-scarred building on the former Green Line between the mainly Muslim Shiyah and Christian Ayn el Rummaneh districts, said she worries about her two sons and society judging them for where they live.

She keeps plants on the veranda and on the stairs to compensate for the building's grim facade.

"If I had somewhere else to go, I would," she said, identifying herself by her nickname, Imm Lebnen, or mother of Lebanon.



Gaza Teacher Offers Ray of Hope with Classroom in Rubble

Palestinian teacher Israa Abu Mustafa, who set up a classroom tent on the rubble of her house to educate children, poses for a photo, amid the Israel-Hamas conflict, in Khan Younis, in the southern Gaza Strip, September 4, 2024. REUTERS/Hatem Khaled/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
Palestinian teacher Israa Abu Mustafa, who set up a classroom tent on the rubble of her house to educate children, poses for a photo, amid the Israel-Hamas conflict, in Khan Younis, in the southern Gaza Strip, September 4, 2024. REUTERS/Hatem Khaled/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
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Gaza Teacher Offers Ray of Hope with Classroom in Rubble

Palestinian teacher Israa Abu Mustafa, who set up a classroom tent on the rubble of her house to educate children, poses for a photo, amid the Israel-Hamas conflict, in Khan Younis, in the southern Gaza Strip, September 4, 2024. REUTERS/Hatem Khaled/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
Palestinian teacher Israa Abu Mustafa, who set up a classroom tent on the rubble of her house to educate children, poses for a photo, amid the Israel-Hamas conflict, in Khan Younis, in the southern Gaza Strip, September 4, 2024. REUTERS/Hatem Khaled/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights

Gaza's schools lie in ruins or have been turned into shelters for families displaced by a war that has killed tens of thousands. Yet teacher Israa Abu Mustafa refuses to let death and destruction deprive traumatised children of an education.

After a four-storey building containing her home was demolished by an Israeli air strike, Abu Mustafa set up a classroom on the rubble under a tent.

Her impromptu school is one of the few remaining options for children in her neighbourhood.

"During the war, we had to fill water gallons and collect sticks for firewood. Then Miss Israa found us and brought us here to continue learning," Reuters quoted 10-year-old Hala Abu Mustafa as saying.

The project began with 35 pupils and that number gradually increased to 70, ranging from pre-school to sixth graders aged 11-12.

Since the war began on Oct. 7, schools have been bombed or turned into shelters for displaced people, leaving Gaza's estimated 625,000 school-aged children unable to attend classes.

According to the Palestinian Ministry of Education, at least 10,490 school and university students have been killed in the Israeli offensive. More than 500 school teachers and university educators have also been killed.

Israel says it goes to great lengths to avoid civilian casualties and accuses Hamas of using human shields and operating from schools, an allegation the group denies.

Abu Mustafa's lessons go beyond just a curriculum. Her classes provide a sense of structure and routine in the chaos.

The tent is far from a traditional classroom where children once dreamed of one day studying abroad or becoming doctors and engineers who help the people of Gaza, which was impoverished and suffered from high unemployment long before the war erupted.

"We need chairs and tables so the children can learn properly instead of being forced to write on the ground," the 29-year-old teacher said.

With limited resources, Abu Mustafa teaches basic lessons including religious studies, trying to keep her students engaged despite the relentless bombardment.

Gaza and the Israeli-occupied West Bank have internationally high literacy levels, and the under-resourced education system was a rare source of hope and pride among Palestinians.

"What could be the child's wish? They have the right to learn in a safe environment, they have the right to play in safe place, to not feel any fear," Abu Mustafa said.