Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
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Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)

A book of insights, reflections and recollections of memories of growing up in Beirut, and the pain of separation and nostalgia, is to be released soon by Dar Nelson Publishing House. It comes as the Lebanese capital is in the midst of one of the darkest moments of its history and attempts to resurrect the city and revive hope in its soul.

Interestingly, the book entitled “The Beirut Quartet”, presents itself as a series of odesto the tormented city. It was written between 2014 and 2019, and was complete before the terrible blast that struck Port of Beirut. But, to its readers, the book appears to have been born out of their suffering, not that of the recent past.

The book’s author, a Lebanese expat by the name of Faris al-Haramouni al-Mahajri, wrote its odes from his distant home. He recollects his childhood and the days of his life and contemplates the many faces of his city and its neighborhoods; he addresses it:

“You cannot be done without ... the enchanter of history and the incubator of my youth
From you come sailing boats... laurel, basil, and elderberry
Ishtar, Adonis and their disciples
And the cedar wood of divine shrines
The queens dreamed of you as a crown on their heads
They left mourning, bewildered
Because they did not reside in you.”

In the book, the author recalls Beirut’s landmarks. He almost tours the city street by street and monument by monument.

“The Evangelical Church, the Americans’ School, Hamra Street, Raouche’s Cafes, Horse Shoe, Fairouz’s Piccadilly, sycamore trees, chinaberry trees, gardens of basil and lemon trees, jasmine bushes and cactus trees. The tramway, Faysal’s for wealthy Arabists and Saber, the king of falafel, for poor students, Uncle Sam for the Americans, the shores’ lighthouse, the sunset’s magnificence and the waves’ radiance.”

Like locations, he recalls people, addressing his capital saying: “They departed and left you behind; they were not all Lebanese, it is not just Gibran, Rihani, Naima, Onsi al-Hajj, Shoushou, Youssef al-Khal and Poetry Magazine that left, but also Zorba Kazantzakis, Laurence Daryl, Pablo Neruda, Camus and De Gaulle... referencing Beirut’s historical and cultural junctures bringing together figures and events of the East and the West.

After the flood of names that have passed through the city, the author stops at the final a juncture where “only Fairuz’s ballads bring hope. She sings and prays for invigoration, for a Beirut reinvigoration that one day revives all deities, the youngest, the eldest and those in-between, their clay, their gold and their marble, brides of the murex red jinn (genies), the blue-and-white scarfs, the philosophers, every whim and approach, and the splendor of colors, so that the people are lifted with them and sing along with them, at the top of their lungs, building and creating.”

The odes oscillate between description and emotion, reproach and hope, and praise and condemnation. The book is an amalgamation of sentiments, and its author wanted them to be personal to the same extent that it evokes collective memories. It is perhaps the kind of book that appeals to millions of Lebanese expatriates, including the book’s author. It wanders between events, evokes the paths of the stars of modern times, Beirut’s cultural junctures, and surveys its flora, flowers, trees, and even its stones and the rocks on which its first buildings and structures were built. Thus “it was perfumed with rose water and basil, crowned with roses and murex, it was adorned, ornated, exhilarated and educated with letters and knowledge.

He concludes with sentimental words for his suffering capital: “Enlighten the sinners’ minds, expel the evils stalking us from all sides, shower us with good deeds, and present yourself as our mother and mediate among us.”



Fusion Between Culture and Modernity as Children Dance in Kenyan Refugee Camp

Young refugee children from the Acholi Dancers group rehearse their traditional dance at a Child-Friendly Space within the Kalobeyei Refugee Settlement in Turkana, Kenya, Monday, June 2, 2025. (AP Photo/Andrew Kasuku)
Young refugee children from the Acholi Dancers group rehearse their traditional dance at a Child-Friendly Space within the Kalobeyei Refugee Settlement in Turkana, Kenya, Monday, June 2, 2025. (AP Photo/Andrew Kasuku)
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Fusion Between Culture and Modernity as Children Dance in Kenyan Refugee Camp

Young refugee children from the Acholi Dancers group rehearse their traditional dance at a Child-Friendly Space within the Kalobeyei Refugee Settlement in Turkana, Kenya, Monday, June 2, 2025. (AP Photo/Andrew Kasuku)
Young refugee children from the Acholi Dancers group rehearse their traditional dance at a Child-Friendly Space within the Kalobeyei Refugee Settlement in Turkana, Kenya, Monday, June 2, 2025. (AP Photo/Andrew Kasuku)

Beads of sweat drip from the faces of young girls and boys as they dance to the rhythm of traditional drums and open calabashes, while their peers watch them in awe.

These are refugee children, some who were born in one of Africa’s largest camps — Kakuma, located in northern Kenya, where more than 300,000 refugees’ livelihoods have been affected by funding cuts that have halved monthly food rations, The Associated Press said.

The children use the Acholi traditional dance as a distraction from hunger and have perfected a survival skill to skip lunches as they stretch their monthly food rations that are currently at 30% of the UN nutritional recommendation per person.

The Acholi people, mostly from Uganda and South Sudan, are among refugees who live in Kakuma camp, which was established in 1992 as a safe haven for people fleeing conflict from dozens of east African countries.

For a moment, the melodious sound of one of the refugee mothers stops the playground buzz of activity as dozens of children sit down to enjoy the traditional dance performance.

The colorful swings doting the community center at Kakuma’s Kalobeyei Refugee Settlement were donated by a Swiss organization, Terre des hommes, which still manages the playground aptly named “Furaha” — Swahili for Happiness.

But the happiness of these children isn't guaranteed now as funding cuts have affected operations here. Fewer resources and staff are available to engage the children and ensure their safety.

One of the dancers, Gladis Amwony, has lived in Kakuma for 8 years now. In recent years, she has started taking part in the Acholi traditional dances to keep her Ugandan roots alive.

The now 20-year-old doesn't imagine ever going back to Uganda and has no recollection of life in her home village.

“I’m happiest when I dance, I feel connected to my ancestors,” the soft-spoken Amwony says after her dance session.

While Amwony and her friends are looking for a cultural connection, just about 5 kilometers (3 miles) from their village in neighboring Kalobeyei Village 3, some boys are in touch with modernity.

The five boys have been practicing a one-of-a-kind dance where they mimic robots, complete with face masks that hide their human faces.

They make their sharp synchronized moves that they have been perfecting for months.

The boys will be part of performances that will be showcased during this year’s World Refugee Day, as an example of the talent and resilience that exists among the refugee community.

This younger generation of dancers make precision moves in a small hall with play and learning items stored in a cabinet that is branded with an American flag, an indication that it was donated by the U.S government.

Such donations are now scarce, with the United States having cut down on funding in March.

These cuts have affected operations here, with the future stardom hopes for these children dimming by the day.

The center, which previously featured daily programs such as taekwondo and ballet, may not be operational in a few months if the funding landscape remains as is.

“We are now reducing some of the activities because we are few. The staff are few and even per day we only have one staff remaining in the center and it is really hard for him/her to conduct 500 children,” said John Papa, a community officer for Terre des hommes in Kalobeyei Village 3.

These programs do more than entertain the children — they keep them away from issues such as child labor, abuse and crime which as a major concern for humanitarian organizations in Kakuma.

And as the children dance and play beneath the sweltering sun, the only hope is that these child friendly spaces remain operational for years.