Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
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Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)

A book of insights, reflections and recollections of memories of growing up in Beirut, and the pain of separation and nostalgia, is to be released soon by Dar Nelson Publishing House. It comes as the Lebanese capital is in the midst of one of the darkest moments of its history and attempts to resurrect the city and revive hope in its soul.

Interestingly, the book entitled “The Beirut Quartet”, presents itself as a series of odesto the tormented city. It was written between 2014 and 2019, and was complete before the terrible blast that struck Port of Beirut. But, to its readers, the book appears to have been born out of their suffering, not that of the recent past.

The book’s author, a Lebanese expat by the name of Faris al-Haramouni al-Mahajri, wrote its odes from his distant home. He recollects his childhood and the days of his life and contemplates the many faces of his city and its neighborhoods; he addresses it:

“You cannot be done without ... the enchanter of history and the incubator of my youth
From you come sailing boats... laurel, basil, and elderberry
Ishtar, Adonis and their disciples
And the cedar wood of divine shrines
The queens dreamed of you as a crown on their heads
They left mourning, bewildered
Because they did not reside in you.”

In the book, the author recalls Beirut’s landmarks. He almost tours the city street by street and monument by monument.

“The Evangelical Church, the Americans’ School, Hamra Street, Raouche’s Cafes, Horse Shoe, Fairouz’s Piccadilly, sycamore trees, chinaberry trees, gardens of basil and lemon trees, jasmine bushes and cactus trees. The tramway, Faysal’s for wealthy Arabists and Saber, the king of falafel, for poor students, Uncle Sam for the Americans, the shores’ lighthouse, the sunset’s magnificence and the waves’ radiance.”

Like locations, he recalls people, addressing his capital saying: “They departed and left you behind; they were not all Lebanese, it is not just Gibran, Rihani, Naima, Onsi al-Hajj, Shoushou, Youssef al-Khal and Poetry Magazine that left, but also Zorba Kazantzakis, Laurence Daryl, Pablo Neruda, Camus and De Gaulle... referencing Beirut’s historical and cultural junctures bringing together figures and events of the East and the West.

After the flood of names that have passed through the city, the author stops at the final a juncture where “only Fairuz’s ballads bring hope. She sings and prays for invigoration, for a Beirut reinvigoration that one day revives all deities, the youngest, the eldest and those in-between, their clay, their gold and their marble, brides of the murex red jinn (genies), the blue-and-white scarfs, the philosophers, every whim and approach, and the splendor of colors, so that the people are lifted with them and sing along with them, at the top of their lungs, building and creating.”

The odes oscillate between description and emotion, reproach and hope, and praise and condemnation. The book is an amalgamation of sentiments, and its author wanted them to be personal to the same extent that it evokes collective memories. It is perhaps the kind of book that appeals to millions of Lebanese expatriates, including the book’s author. It wanders between events, evokes the paths of the stars of modern times, Beirut’s cultural junctures, and surveys its flora, flowers, trees, and even its stones and the rocks on which its first buildings and structures were built. Thus “it was perfumed with rose water and basil, crowned with roses and murex, it was adorned, ornated, exhilarated and educated with letters and knowledge.

He concludes with sentimental words for his suffering capital: “Enlighten the sinners’ minds, expel the evils stalking us from all sides, shower us with good deeds, and present yourself as our mother and mediate among us.”



Albania Town Where Everything's Coming Up Roses

Ariana Nikolla prepares rosewater in the traditional way in Permet, Albania. Adnan Beci / AFP
Ariana Nikolla prepares rosewater in the traditional way in Permet, Albania. Adnan Beci / AFP
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Albania Town Where Everything's Coming Up Roses

Ariana Nikolla prepares rosewater in the traditional way in Permet, Albania. Adnan Beci / AFP
Ariana Nikolla prepares rosewater in the traditional way in Permet, Albania. Adnan Beci / AFP

In Permet, deep in the spectacular Vjosa Valley of southern Albania, roses rule supreme, whether used to make perfumes, flavored water or the Turkish delights sought out by thousands of sweet-toothed tourists.

"Here everything revolves around roses, from cooking with them to their medicinal virtues" -- everything is seen through rose-tinted glasses, joked biology teacher Ariana Nikolla.

Since she was little, the 57-year-old has been delicately picking the petals of her favorite variety, "the Groom's Rose", named for its delicate scent, AFP said.

In Permet roses are a ritual -- the first gift to a would-be lover. And they have to be pink, symbolizing love and fidelity.

Every family cultivates dozens of rose varieties in their garden, including the highly perfumed Damask and Provence roses, making the town famous across the Balkans for its artisanal rose water.

Yet it is almost impossible to buy -- it is just too valuable, say locals, who gift a few drops from time to time and jealously guard their reserves.

'Rose water is like love'

"Rose water is like love, it must be carefully tended," said veteran maker Resmie Tuci.

"The process of making high-quality rose water is difficult and meticulous. It requires very particular copper containers and you also have to use the right roses and select the ones with the most fragrant petals," said the 70-year-old.

The traditional method, passed from one generation to the next, is listed in Albania's national inventory of intangible cultural heritage.

First you stretch a cloth over a copper bowl laced with thread, itself placed inside a large, flat-bottomed basin filled with water.

Then the hand-picked rose petals are carefully placed on the cloth and covered with a flat stone topped with hot ashes from a fire.

The petals sweat underneath and yield up their precious rose water through condensation.

"It's a process that takes hours," Tuci told AFP. "But every drop is precious," chimes in Nikolla, filling a small bottle with rose water, which she will put in a sunny spot for several weeks before it is ready.

"It's as precious as gold," she added.

- Sweet delights -

Locals use it for its supposed benefits, from soothing irritated eyes to an anti-inflammatory cream to help calm itching. And, of course, in cooking.

Eftali Qerimi, 63, swears by it.

The almond rose water cakes she bakes in her workshop are unlike any other local "llokums".

Made with only almond powder, sugar and rosewater, the rose-shaped fancies mark important events for families in the region.

Considered lucky charms, they are served at birthdays, weddings and baby showers. With the women in her workshop, Qerimi produces up to 10 kilos of Turkish delights a day, which she sells at 50 euros a kilo.

Occasionally she makes small ones shaped like baby feet -- a way, according to tradition, to wish newborns a long life.

Between batches, the women make rose petal jam, its fragrance filling the workshop.

"The rose is everything for us; it symbolizes the heart, love and life's happiness," said Qerimi, who is hard at work with the tourism high season about to begin.

"Tourists flock to the town and after the natural beauties" of the valley, with its famous gorges and natural park, "they also want to taste its culinary delights", she smiled.