Black, British, Forgotten: UK Arts Retell Lost Tales

British-Zambian artist Hannah Uzor poses next to her portrait of Sarah Forbes Bonetta at Osbourne House in the Isle of Wight, Britain. (English Heritage via Reuters)
British-Zambian artist Hannah Uzor poses next to her portrait of Sarah Forbes Bonetta at Osbourne House in the Isle of Wight, Britain. (English Heritage via Reuters)
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Black, British, Forgotten: UK Arts Retell Lost Tales

British-Zambian artist Hannah Uzor poses next to her portrait of Sarah Forbes Bonetta at Osbourne House in the Isle of Wight, Britain. (English Heritage via Reuters)
British-Zambian artist Hannah Uzor poses next to her portrait of Sarah Forbes Bonetta at Osbourne House in the Isle of Wight, Britain. (English Heritage via Reuters)

The tale of an enslaved West African girl turned protegee to an English queen may sound like the stuff of fairy tales, but it comes straight from the history books - one of many forgotten Black British stories ripe for retelling.

From African slave girls to post-war Caribbean immigrants, Black Britons are being resurrected in the arts as part of a wider reappraisal of racism and who gets to write history.

Omoba Aina, who was renamed Sarah Forbes Bonetta, was given to Queen Victoria in 1850 as a girl and became an influential figure among Victorian high society, according to cultural body English Heritage.

In the wake of last year’s Black Lives Matter movement, stories about Black historical figures have resurfaced, spurring the arts and cultural sector to revitalize their collections in a bid to diversify the industry.

“The heritage sector has a huge part to play in broadening our understanding of British society in the past,” Matt Thompson, head collections curator at English Heritage, told the Thomson Reuters Foundation.

“What we want to do is to try and tell the most complete story of England as we can. We can’t do that if we’re only focusing on a very narrow set of narratives of individuals. In some cases, these stories have been overlooked and ignored.”

From Steve McQueen’s “Small Axe” to the hit Netflix drama series “Bridgerton”, which drew 63 million viewers in its first month and featured a diverse cast set in Regency England, the appetite for Black British stories is palpable.

In October, English Heritage unveiled a large portrait of Bonetta at Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s seaside home on the Isle of Wight, a precursor to an upcoming series highlighting Black British figures.

“It’s not just about the voices in the past that we need to bring out. We need to make sure we’ve got more voices within the sector, diversify visitors, diversify people within the sector,” said Thompson.

Just 11% of people working across the arts are from a Black and ethnic minority background, according to an industry report by The Arts Council in 2020.

English visitors to museums, galleries and other cultural attractions in the country are also skewed, with white Britons making up over half of visits in 2019 compared to 34% who were Black and 44% of Asian descent, according to government data.

Hidden stories
British-Zambian artist Hannah Uzor, whose portrait of Bonetta takes pride of place at Osbourne House, said she plans more portraits of Black Britons, an art form that has long been a signifier of a subject’s perceived prominence.

Uzor said she was surprised Bonetta’s story was so little known in modern Britain given her place in royal history.

“If her story was hidden, how much more of other people’s stories have been hidden?” Uzor said.

“Until we have our museums filled with Black figures - whether ... up there with the elite, or the poor Black person on the street - it’s just important to have a true reflection of our history.”

Uzor said it was crucial to spread these lost stories beyond the walls of galleries or stately homes and into the classroom.

“Though we can’t change mindsets with just one portrait, it’s the long-term legacy of what we do from now that really makes a bigger impact. The only way to continue the conversation is to look at our children and what they’re learning,” she said.

Social enterprise The Black Curriculum, which works to include Black history in the school curriculum, said they have had huge interest since launching in 2019, training more than 1,300 teachers last year.

Seeing Black British figures in museums, galleries and on screens are an effective way to bring the story to life outside of the classroom, said spokeswoman Addie Tadesse.

“With figures such as Sarah Forbes Bonetta, we’re able to view our history on 18th and 19th century Britain with a more holistic angle and one that includes Black Britain,” she said.

“So seeing that in mainstream media will really beautifully complement the work being done in schools.”



Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
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Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP

When Burger King announced it was selling caviar with nuggets at its French restaurants on April 1, many people assumed it was an April Fool's joke.

But as news spread on social media, buyers rushed to try one of the world's most expensive delicacies paired with a humble and highly commoditized piece of deep-fried chicken while limited stocks lasted, said AFP.

For 19 euros ($22), they got seven nuggets, mayonnaise and a 10-gram (0.35-ounce) pouch of Chinese-origin caviar from the Astana brand, which explained it had worked with the fast-food giant to "make the caviar of chefs available to as many people as possible".

It was a marketing coup -- the story quickly went viral after being picked up by French news outlets -- but it also revealed how the image of caviar as an out-of-reach luxury product is rapidly changing.

As with most new food trends, interest in the exclusive fish eggs is being driven by online influencers and celebrities.

Rihanna posted a video to her 150 million followers on Instagram on December 20 last year showing her eating nuggets topped with caviar.

"I don't like how much I like this," she began.

US celebrity chef David Chang is also a champion, with a 2022 Instagram video showing him dunking a deep-fried chicken leg into a one-kilogram tin of caviar -- "one of my favorite most obscene things to do" -- which racked up more than three million views.

He credits New York chef Wylie Dufresne with first adding it to the menu at his influential WD~50 restaurant in the 2010s.

Last year, the US Open tennis tournament caused a stir by selling a $100 box of six nuggets with caviar created by the luxury Manhattan fried chicken restaurant Coqodaq.

'Less formal'

Producers and food writers have mixed feelings about the popularization of the culinary indulgence, which sells for 1,000 to 30,000 euros a kilogram depending on the type.

The high prices are due to rarity and the high investment producers make in the sturgeon fish needed for caviar, which start to produce eggs only after eight or 10 years.

The most expensive caviar -- the one famously preferred by Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor -- is the roe of the beluga sturgeon, which takes at least 15 years to mature.

Mikael Petrossian, head of the French brand Petrossian, said there was a "demystification" of caviar underway.

"Caviar doesn't necessarily have to come in a large tin with silver serving pieces... You can enjoy the product in a much more relaxed way," he said. "I personally like eating caviar with crisps."

The founder of French caviar producer Neuvic, Laurent Deverlanges, says his company also aims to make it "less formal".

He posted a review of the "King Nugget Caviar" menu online, concluding that "it works, even if you can't really taste the caviar much".

But Olivier Cabarrot, the head of the France-based Prunier brand whose caviar restaurant is one of the most famous in the world, pushes back on the idea of it becoming a regular product.

"In terms of gastronomy, there is nothing as expensive. It's hard to talk about it becoming 'democratised'," he said. "But we can speak of greater accessibility, achieved through the sale of smaller quantities rather than lower prices."

Many distributors including Petrossian and Prunier offer tins of 10, 20 or 30 grams, helping to attract a younger clientele.

Dreamy

Remi Dechambre, a food journalist at Le Parisien newspaper, said people associated caviar with opulence and refinement less and less.

"We've completely moved on from that... Consumption has become a little more common, a little less formal -- even though it still makes people dream," he told AFP.

But knowing how to enjoy the product properly remains essential, said Francoise Boisseaud, managing director of the supplier Le Comptoir du Caviar.

"There's a whole education to be done," she said about the different types -- baeri, oscietre, sevruga or beluga .

For her, the best way to enjoy it is with a crusty baguette and butter, not with fried chicken or crisps.

Robin Panfili, a food journalist who runs the food blog "Entree, Plat, Dessert", said Burger King had pulled off a "marketing trick".

"By trying to bring together two worlds that are completely opposed -- luxury and fast food -- the aim is to shake up the codes, to demystify a product historically seen as luxurious and elitist. It's visual, it's viral, it sparks discussion because it's provocative," he told AFP.