Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
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Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File

Catwalk shows resume at London Fashion Week on Friday, after previous editions of the landmark industry event were forced online by the coronavirus pandemic.

The sight of models and audiences together again will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after lifting most restrictions in July.

A total of 28 shows are planned over five days, featuring 131 brands, including those from well-established designers such as Britain's Edward Crutchley and Serbia's Roksanda.

But there are two notable absentees: former Spice Girl turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham, and the luxury brand Burberry.

Last September, Burberry presented its spring-summer 2021 collection with a show on the streaming platform Twitch, filmed in the middle of a forest and broadcast live.

Some designers this time round are preferring to present their latest creations by appointment only, or via videos on the Fashion Week platform.

In February, London Fashion Week was held entirely online, as the country was deep into a mid-winter virus lockdown.

The London Fashion Council (LFC) said the September shows "mark the long-awaited cultural reopening of London and brings back the global fashion industry to the UK".

The event -- one of the big four international fashion weeks alongside Paris, New York and Milan -- has previously been targeted by climate change campaigners.

Direct action groups such as Extinction Rebellion have denounced what they see as the exploitative practices of "fast fashion" and the environmental costs of production.

The LFC promised the event would partly focus on "the actions people and the industry can take to act responsibly to become changemakers and create a better world".

- Bounce back -

Among the emerging talents this year is London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka, who is presenting her first ever show on Friday.

A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school in London, the 27-year-old designer won the LVMH 2021 prize for young talent last week.

Following on from New York and preceding Milan, London Fashion Week is dedicated to spring-summer 2022 collections and is intended to be "gender neutral".

The British fashion industry, which employed around 890,000 people in 2019, is hoping to bounce back after suffering a slump during the global health crisis.

According to data from Oxford Economics for the Creative Industries Federation and Creative England, the sector could recover faster than the UK economy as a whole.

It estimated growth of more than 25 percent by 2025, which would contribute some £132.1 billion ($180 billion, 153 billion euros) to the UK economy -- more than £28 billion more than in 2020.

In July, Burberry announced that its first quarter sales had returned to pre-pandemic levels. However, sales in Europe continued to suffer from the lack of tourists.

Last week, the London-based French designer Roland Mouret told the Financial Times it could take his brand five years to fully recover from the impact of the pandemic.



ASOS Warns of $200 Million Hit from Atlanta Distribution Center Closure

A keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
A keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
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ASOS Warns of $200 Million Hit from Atlanta Distribution Center Closure

A keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)
A keyboard and a shopping cart are seen in front of a displayed ASOS logo in this illustration picture taken October 13, 2020. (Reuters)

Britain's ASOS Plc flagged a one-time impairment charge exceeding $200 million in fiscal 2025 due to the "mothballing" of its Atlanta distribution center on Wednesday, as the online fashion retailer navigates a tough business environment.

Over the last couple of years, ASOS has been working to transform its business after losing popularity among its target audience of young customers and dealing with an inventory surplus.

This effort by the retailer, however, has coincided with the growing prominence of budget-friendly fast-fashion brands such as Shein and the Chinese online retailer Temu.

The decision to phase out the Atlanta facility comes after ASOS completes a multi-year warehouse automation project.

US customers will be served from the retailer's automated UK fulfillment center from the second half of 2025 and through a smaller local site, ASOS said.

Due to the shift, the retailer expects to take a one-time hit of about 190 million pounds ($231.91 million) on its reported profit in fiscal 2025, and then save between 10 million pounds and 20 million pounds annually in core earnings from financial year 2026.

ASOS intends to market the Atlanta site - seven employees will be offered new roles if possible, and many third-party logistics workers will be given opportunities at nearby locations, the company said.

The firm, which opened a local US office in 2024, said it will continue to grow and build its local presence.