Makeup Makes Comeback in Middle East Market as Pandemic Eases

Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
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Makeup Makes Comeback in Middle East Market as Pandemic Eases

Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)

While pandemic style saw people put on pajamas and their hair up in a bun, 2021 is more about mascara and lip liners — and makeup sales in the multi-billion-dollar Mideast market are beginning to improve.

After a pandemic sales slump, analysts now predict the Middle East makeup market will grow by as much as 5% over the next five years, even as sales in some parts of the world continue to slow, such as in Western Europe and North America.

Drawing on those trends, Dubai — the glitzy city state that is part of the United Arab Emirates — has been hosting a number of events and celebrities. Among them was Mario Dedivanovic, known for doing Kim Kardashian’s makeup, who hosted a talk on the future of beauty over the weekend. With more than 9 million followers, Dedivanovic is one of the most influential makeup artists currently on the scene.

Mask-less women donning designer shoes and bags and wearing the latest makeup trends, gathered at Mirdif City Center Mall to listen to him.

Dedovanovic said Dubai is on par with global beauty hubs.

“Dubai is such a cosmopolitan city. Everywhere in the world, you know, everybody knows about Dubai,” Dedovanovic told The Associated Press. He said makeup artists in Dubai are “doing everything at the same pace that ... it is being done in Paris and Milan and London.”

The makeup industry was worth $4 billion in the Middle East even during the pandemic, according to market research group Euromonitor International. But the pandemic hit it hard with the surge in working from home and cancellations of many social events such as weddings. Pandemic-related job losses also meant less disposable income, and spending focused more on necessities.

Globally, the makeup industry declined by 16% in 2020, Euromonitor said, with the slump slightly less drastic at 10% in the Middle East.

Amna Abbas, a consultant for beauty and fashion at Euromonitor, said some areas of the Middle East, including the UAE, had shorter lockdown periods. Once markets reopened, “we saw signs of recovery happening immediately,” she said.

As people began to go back to offices, socialize more and attend events, makeup sales began improving. Euromonitor said makeup sales growth should hit 6% to 8% in the Middle East this year.

Abbas said the growth has been faster than expected, even though the market is not likely to bounce back to pre-pandemic levels until 2022 or 2023. She added that “recovery is still on.”

Online shopping is also becoming increasingly important and so is the use of social media. After 2020, more women turned to purchasing their favorite shades of lipstick or foundation online, assisted at times by an augmented reality feature where they could see what they would look like wearing a specific color.

As part of the growing reliance on online shopping, women in the Gulf follow celebrities, influencers, and makeup brands on social media to find out about trends and beauty tips. Huda Kattan, a Dubai-based Iraqi-American beauty magnate, has built a billion-dollar business here on that.



Dolce & Gabbana Debut in Paris, Showing Italian Artistry on French Soil

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
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Dolce & Gabbana Debut in Paris, Showing Italian Artistry on French Soil

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann

For the first time in their 40-year history, the Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana are showcasing their work in the French fashion capital. Paris, the birthplace of haute couture, now finds itself hosting a powerful Italian counterpoint to French luxury fashion.
The message, as curator Florence Müller puts it, is direct: “Yes, Italy does it too.”
The landmark exhibition, Du Coeur a la Main (From the Heart to the Hand) running from Jan. 10 to March 31, is not only a love letter to Italian craftsmanship, but to the interconnectedness of fashion. “The story of couture is global,” Müller explained. “Embroidery, lace, brocade — they existed long before Parisian couture, in Italy, in India, and beyond.”
Spread across 1,200 square meters (1,400 square yards) of the newly refurbished Grand Palais, the exhibit showcases over 200 looks from the company's Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria collections and 300 handmade accessories, as well as objects like Sicilian ceramics. It includes 10 themed rooms that delve into the artistic roots of Dolce & Gabbana’s work.
Baroque grandeur defines the collection, unapologetically maximalist and layered with embellishments. Among the highlights is a gown inspired by Venice's Murano glass, encrusted with glass mosaics from Orsoni Venezia 1888, the glassmakers behind the golden mosaics of St. Mark's Basilica. Müller described it as “a sculpture on textile — pure craftsmanship elevated to art.”
Opera takes center stage. A black velvet gown softened by gold embellishments captures the drama of Bellini’s Norma, while a romantic blue dress for Verdi’s La Traviata flows like an aria, its tulle layers whispering love and loss. Meanwhile, icons of the brand, such as Sophia Loren and Naomi Campbell, are immortalized in giant paintings. Classical Italian opera and traditional Sicilian folk melodies provide the soundtrack, adding layers of drama.
But Du Coeur a la Main is not just about finished pieces. Five real seamstresses from Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan atelier work live during the exhibition, crafting bodices, bustiers and corsets before visitors’ eyes. “This seamstress is sewing lace to form a dress, while another is draping fabric by hand,” Müller said. “It’s extraordinary. This is not just fashion — it’s art.”
Sicily, Domenico Dolce’s birthplace, lies at the heart of the collection. Traditional Sicilian hand-painted carts, ceramics and lace-making techniques are woven into couture. Yet the exhibit also underscores fashion's often-ignored global influences.
“Luxury goods and artisans traveled more than we think,” Müller said. “The silk and brocades used at Versailles Palace came from India, and Italian artisans were hired to craft the Hall of Mirrors ... (Fashion) is constant exchanges and inspirations — this exhibit reveals what time forgot.”
Italian and French fashion have long been framed as rivals, with French conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering and Paris Fashion Week sometimes viewed as the pinnacle of the industry. But this exhibition challenges that hierarchy, showing that the two traditions are more interconnected than they are opposed. Both rely on les petites mains — "the little hands" — the artisans whose precision and passion elevate couture to art.
“The techniques may differ — Sicily’s lace traditions versus Paris’s tailoring — but the soul of couture remains the same: the human touch,” Müller said. The exhibit reveals the shared ingenuity of French and Italian ateliers, whether in a Sicilian workshop or a Parisian salon.
Even beyond couture, the exhibit highlights the breadth of “Made in Italy.” Everyday items like Smeg refrigerators and coffee presses given a D&G reworking reflect the ethos of Italian craftsmanship, transforming functional objects into canvases for artistry.
“Fashion is art. It’s meant to inspire, to dazzle, to make us dream. Whether you wear it once or never, its value is in its beauty, not its practicality,” Müller said.
When asked about hyperbole of the dazzling gowns — many of which seem impossible to wear on the street — she replies with a smile: “So what?”