Libya's Underground Homes Wait for Tourism Revival

The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
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Libya's Underground Homes Wait for Tourism Revival

The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP

Gharyan's unique underground houses were hewn into the mountainside centuries ago, and many lie abandoned, but residents of the Libyan town are hoping tourism can help restore their heritage.

"My great-great-great-great-great-grandfather dug this yard 355 years ago," said Al-Arbi Belhaj, who owns one of the oldest houses in the mixed Berber-Arab town south of Tripoli.

His ancestor would have used a "tajouk" pickaxe to chip away at the ground before loading the rubble into a woven date-palm "gouffa" basket to carry it away, he said.

Dug deep into the arid Nafusa mountains at around 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level, the home would have been protected against the scorching summers that bring temperatures up to 45 degrees Celsius (113 Fahrenheit), AFP said.

It would have also stayed warm throughout the often snowy winters.

The region's bedrock has a consistency that allowed the underground dwelling -- known as a damous -- to last for centuries without collapsing.

Some of the buildings are over 2,300 years old, and ancient Greek historians mentioned their existence, according to historian Youssef al-Khattali.

The area also has burial sites dating back to Phoenician times, he added.

Today, Belhaj says he is the owner of the oldest underground home in Gharyan, a town where many residents have family records and property deeds dating back centuries.

The warren of rooms dug into the rock around the courtyard once housed as many as eight large families, he said.

He was the last person to be born there, in 1967.

In 1990, like many people seeking more comfortable dwellings with running water and electricity, the family moved out of the home, but they kept ownership of it.

Now, Belhaj has renovated it and turned it into a tourist attraction.

- 'Designed to be versatile' -
While late dictator Moamer Kadhafi allowed tourists to visit the country on organized trips, visitors have been thin on the ground since his fall in a 2011 revolt, which sparked a decade of chaos.

But the region's Berber villages have continued to attract domestic tourists, and Belhaj is hoping that a return to relative stability could open the door to more visitors from Europe and elsewhere.

He charges an entry fee equivalent to a dollar for Libyans, or two for foreigners.

While some come for a cup of tea and to explore the building, others stay for lunch or spend the entire day there.

Damous structures were once common across a stretch of western Libya and eastern Tunisia -- the other side of a border only drawn up in 1886.

"The same tribes extend from Nalut to Gabes," said historian Khattali, referring to towns on the Libyan and Tunisian sides.

Their sites were carefully chosen and the buildings painstakingly excavated by hand to avoid them collapsing in the process.

In 1936, they attracted the attention of colonial power Italy, featuring in a tourist guide.

And they were not just used as homes.

"First of all, there were underground dwellings for humans and their animals, then buildings intended as places of worship," Khattali said, referring to synagogues and churches that were mostly later converted to mosques.

Some were also used as defenses, he said.

"You can still make out the traces of fortifications in certain parts of the mountain, including the remains of watchtowers."

The buildings "were designed to be versatile, and they've stood the test of time," Khattali said.

"That's why they're so important in the history of Libyan architecture."



Musk’s Hand Gesture During Trump Inauguration Festivities Draws Scrutiny 

SpaceX CEO Elon Musk gestures during a rally on the inauguration day of US President Donald Trump's second Presidential term, inside Capital One, in Washington, US, January 20, 2025. (Reuters)
SpaceX CEO Elon Musk gestures during a rally on the inauguration day of US President Donald Trump's second Presidential term, inside Capital One, in Washington, US, January 20, 2025. (Reuters)
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Musk’s Hand Gesture During Trump Inauguration Festivities Draws Scrutiny 

SpaceX CEO Elon Musk gestures during a rally on the inauguration day of US President Donald Trump's second Presidential term, inside Capital One, in Washington, US, January 20, 2025. (Reuters)
SpaceX CEO Elon Musk gestures during a rally on the inauguration day of US President Donald Trump's second Presidential term, inside Capital One, in Washington, US, January 20, 2025. (Reuters)

Billionaire Elon Musk's hand gesture while he spoke during a celebration of President Donald Trump's inauguration drew online comparisons to a Nazi salute on Monday, but a leading tracker of antisemitism said it appeared to represent a moment of enthusiasm instead.

Musk dismissed criticism of the hand gesture as a "tired" attack.

Musk took to the Capital One Arena stage in Washington to huge cheers, pumping his arms and shouting, "Yesssss."

"This was no ordinary victory. This was a fork in the road of human civilization," he said. "This one really mattered. Thank you for making it happen! Thank you," he said.

Biting his bottom lip, he thumped his right hand over his heart, fingers spread wide, then extended his right arm out, emphatically, at an upward angle, palm down and fingers together. Then he turned and made the same hand gesture to the crowd behind him.

"My heart goes out to you. It is thanks to you that the future of civilization is assured," he said as he finished the gesture.

The gestures were quickly scrutinized online.

"Did Elon Musk Sieg Heil at Trump's inauguration?" asked the Jerusalem Post.

The Anti-Defamation League, which tracks antisemitism, disagreed.

"It seems that @elonmusk made an awkward gesture in a moment of enthusiasm, not a Nazi salute, but again, we appreciate that people are on edge," it posted on Monday.

"Frankly, they need better dirty tricks. The 'everyone is Hitler' attack is sooo tired," Musk said on his social media platform X late on Monday.

Soon after his speech, Musk posted a Fox video clip of portions of his speech on X, that cut away from the podium when he made the first gesture while facing the cameras. "The future is so exciting," he wrote above it.

A spokesperson for Trump did not immediately reply to requests for comment.

Some X users came to Musk's defense, claiming that Musk was expressing "my heart goes out to you" and criticizing posts that suggested otherwise.

Musk has backed the far-right Alternative for Germany (AfD), an anti-immigration, anti-Islamic party labeled as right-wing-extremist by German security services, in an upcoming national election. He hosted a broadcast with the party's leader on his social media platform earlier this month.