Lebanon’s Music Festivals Make Modest Comeback After Crisis

Lebanese singer Soumaya Baalbaki and conductor Lubnan Baalbaki perform at the Roman temple of Bacchus, during the opening of Baalbeck International Festival, in Baalbeck, Lebanon July 8, 2022. REUTERS/Issam Abdallah
Lebanese singer Soumaya Baalbaki and conductor Lubnan Baalbaki perform at the Roman temple of Bacchus, during the opening of Baalbeck International Festival, in Baalbeck, Lebanon July 8, 2022. REUTERS/Issam Abdallah
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Lebanon’s Music Festivals Make Modest Comeback After Crisis

Lebanese singer Soumaya Baalbaki and conductor Lubnan Baalbaki perform at the Roman temple of Bacchus, during the opening of Baalbeck International Festival, in Baalbeck, Lebanon July 8, 2022. REUTERS/Issam Abdallah
Lebanese singer Soumaya Baalbaki and conductor Lubnan Baalbaki perform at the Roman temple of Bacchus, during the opening of Baalbeck International Festival, in Baalbeck, Lebanon July 8, 2022. REUTERS/Issam Abdallah

Lebanon's international music festivals kicked off at the weekend with a performance in the Roman ruins of Baalbek, the first performance there since the country's economic crisis.

Under the title of "Baalbek Nights Return," conductor Lubnan Baalbaki – whose first name means "Lebanon" and whose last name means "from Baalbek" - led the orchestra on Friday night alongside his sister, singer Soumaya. The country once held several music festivals every summer, drawing international acts every weekend. This year, the modest reopenings feature almost exclusively Lebanese performers.

Members of the audience in Baalbek swayed and sang along as Soumaya crooned Arabic tunes on a stage set up inside the temple of Bacchus, her silver gown glittering under the spotlights. She performed traditional ballads as well as original songs written by Lebanese poets and scored by her brother.

For many, the evening was a welcome escape from the crises that have hit Lebanon over the last three years. A financial meltdown described by the World Bank as one of the worst since the industrial revolution has led to rampant power cuts and medicine shortages across the country.

Lebanese have been further strained by the Beirut port blast of 2020 and several waves of the coronavirus pandemic. "This is an exceptional day," Soumaya told Reuters after the performance.

"Despite all the difficulties that have shadowed our work, we put on this festival. It's an act of defiance – an act of faith in this country, in its image as a nation of art, culture and soft power that generates change."

It was her first ever performance in her namesake city. Her brother last performed there in 2019, just months before Lebanon's collapse began. "Music and arts were the most hard-hit by the coronavirus pandemic. Artists were the first to stop working and the last to return. This moment is so important for musicians and on a nationwide level," said Lubnan.

"The crisis has pushed us to return to Lebanese talent and real Lebanese voices. Tonight, Soumaya's performance on the stage in Baalbek reminded us how important and refined our musical culture is," said Micheline Abi Samra, a member of the audience. "We were so happy and the coming days will be even better," she told Reuters.

Upcoming acts at Baalbek include Lebanese rock band Adonis, French-Lebanese pianist Simon Ghreichy, and Iranian dancer Rana Gharghani. "We are living through very difficult circumstance and very dark days," said journalist Ricardo Karam, who attended the Baalbaki performance on Friday. "They made them beautiful, they made them vibrant."



Stray Dogs in Giza become Tourist Draw after 'Pyramid Puppy' Sensation

A pack of about eight dogs has made its home among the ancient ruins of the Giza Pyramids - AFP
A pack of about eight dogs has made its home among the ancient ruins of the Giza Pyramids - AFP
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Stray Dogs in Giza become Tourist Draw after 'Pyramid Puppy' Sensation

A pack of about eight dogs has made its home among the ancient ruins of the Giza Pyramids - AFP
A pack of about eight dogs has made its home among the ancient ruins of the Giza Pyramids - AFP

Beneath the blazing Egyptian sun, crowds at the Giza Pyramids gazed up at the ancient wonders, but some had their eyes peeled for a new attraction.

"There he is," one Polish tourist told his wife as they spotted a scrappy dog perched on one of the stones.

They were talking about Apollo, a stray who became an overnight sensation last month after being filmed scaling the Great Pyramid of Khafre, one of the seven wonders of the world.
The viral footage, captured by American paragliding enthusiast Alex Lang and shared online by his friend Marshall Mosher, showed Apollo fearlessly climbing the 136-metre monument, barking at birds from the summit.
"He was acting like a king," Lang told AFP.

As news of Apollo's daring climb spread worldwide, interest grew in the dogs who have long made their homes among the ancient stones.

"He is climbing over there," said Arkadiusz Jurys, a tourist from Poland, craning his neck for a better view.

"It is unusual," he added, describing Apollo as surveying the picture-snapping crowd from above.

Another visitor, Diego Vega from Argentina, felt a special bond with the dogs.

"Connecting with them feels like connecting with the pharaohs," he said, while petting a member of Apollo's pack.

- Sales up -

Apollo's newfound fame has even inspired local guides to include him and his pack in their stories for tourists.

"This is Anubis," one tour guide told two American tourists, comparing Apollo, now known as the "pyramid puppy", with the ancient Egyptian god of the dead, often depicted as a man with a jackal's head.

"He and his pack are now part of our tour conversations," said Sobhi Fakhry, another tour guide.

Businesses around the Giza plateau are also seeing a boost.

Umm Basma, a 43-year-old woman selling souvenirs near the Khafre pyramid, reported an increase in sales thanks to the influx of tourists eager to meet the so-called pyramid dogs.

"We've always seen these dogs climbing the pyramids, but we never thought they would become a blessing for us," she said.

One pyramid guard, who preferred to remain anonymous, also said that some celebrities had paid for permits to have their own dogs photographed with Apollo.

Apollo, a three-year-old Baladi dog, is part of a pack of about eight that has made their home among the ancient ruins.

The dogs, a local breed, are known for their resilience, intelligence and ability to survive in Egypt's harsh climate.

Ibrahim el-Bendary, co-founder of the American Cairo Animal Rescue Foundation, which monitors the pyramid dogs, described Apollo as the pack's "alpha male".

"He is the bravest and strongest in his pack," he said.

Apollo was born in a rocky crevice within the Khafre pyramid where his mother, Laika, found shelter. Sadly, some of Apollo's siblings did not survive the site's perilous heights.

A sympathetic guard eventually relocated Laika to a safer spot where Apollo now stands out with his distinctive curled tail and confident nature.

- Dog adoptions -

The initial focus of Lang and Marshall was the daring canine climber, but their visit led to a deeper connection with Cairo's stray dogs.

Intrigued by the challenges they face, Mosher decided to adopt a puppy from the pack: Anubi, who is Apollo's daughter.

Anubi will join Marshall in the US after she receives the dedicated care she needs in Egypt to grow up healthy.

At the pyramids, local animal care groups are now working with the government in order to set up food and water stations for the strays, as well as for other animals including camels and horses.

A permanent veterinary center will be established at the pyramids with staff set to receive animal care training, said Egypt's tourism minister.

Vicki Michelle Brown, the other co-founder of the American Cairo Animal Rescue Foundation, believes that Apollo's story can make a difference.

"It sheds so much light on the dogs and cats that are here," Brown said.

"I definitely believe him (Apollo) climbing the pyramids can help all of the dogs in Egypt to have a better life."