Why Louvre’s Mona Lisa Keeps a Smile: Paris’ Cooling System

Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
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Why Louvre’s Mona Lisa Keeps a Smile: Paris’ Cooling System

Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)

The Mona Lisa may maintain her famously enigmatic smile because she benefits from one of Paris’ best-kept secrets: An underground cooling system that’s helped the Louvre cope with the sweltering heat that has broken temperature records across Europe.

The little-known “urban cold” network snakes unsuspecting beneath Parisians’ feet at a depth of up to 30 meters (98 feet), pumping out icy water through 89 kilometers (55 miles) of labyrinthine pipes, which is used to chill the air in over 700 sites. The system, which uses electricity generated by renewable sources, is the largest in Europe — and chugs on around the clock with a deafening noise totally inaudible above ground.

Paris City Hall has now signed an ambitious contract to triple the size of the network by 2042 to 252 kilometers (157 miles). It would make it the largest urban cooling system in the world. The new contract intends to help the city to both adapt to and combat the threat of global warming. Many parts of Europe hit 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit) in July.

The city is extending the cooling network to hospitals, schools and metro stations over the next two decades. It’s unclear how much of the system will be operational by the time of the Paris Olympics in 2024, but it's possible the systems will be used in several Olympic sites.

Unbeknown to millions of tourists, the piping currently cools the City of Light’s most emblematic sites, such as the Louvre and the Quai Branly Museum. It might even help cool the tempers of agitated lawmakers as it is used to drop temperatures in the National Assembly.

The scheme is operated by the joint-venture company Fraicheur de Paris — 85% owned by the state’s French energy company EDF and the rest by public transport operator RATP. The company's officials tout its benefits for the entire French capital.

“If all (Parisian) buildings get equipped with autonomous installations (such as air-conditioning), it will gradually create a very significant urban ‘heat island’ effect,” said Maggie Schelfhaut of Fraicheur de Paris, referring to the increased heat in cities due to less vegetation, which cools, and more urban infrastructure, which absorbs the sun's rays.

But Schelfhaut said that the pipe network could make the whole of Paris one degree Celsius (1.8 Fahrenheit) cooler than if autonomous installations were put up across the city.

“One degree less in the city center is a lot,” she added.

Three of the 10 high-tech cooling sites lie on the Seine River and are accessed by a retractable spiral staircase barely visible from street level — in something resembling the lair of the “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.”

When the Seine’s water is cold enough, a machine captures it and uses it to chill the system’s water. The heat created as a byproduct is sent back into the Seine where it is absorbed. The chilled water is then pumped though the system's pipes to its 730 Parisian clients.

Paris’ cooling sites all use renewable energy sources such as wind turbines and solar panels. Four new solar energy sites which will feed into this network are also earmarked for construction. French officials see this energy independence as particularly important given the threat of Russia cutting off energy supplies to Europe.

Russian energy corporation Gazprom on Wednesday cut the amount of natural gas flowing through a major pipeline from Russia to Europe to 20% of its capacity. European nations are rushing to find alternatives amid fears that Russia could completely cut off gas exports — which are used for industry, to generate electricity and to cool homes — to try to gain political leverage over the bloc.

The merits of using a cooling system which uses renewable energy to operate are already being felt by sites that use them. The world’s most visited museum, the Louvre, has benefited from the network since the 1990s — with officials proud of its ecological, economic and art conservation advantages.

“It allows us to benefit from energy with a lower carbon footprint available all year round,” said Laurent Le Guedart, the Louvre’s Heritage Director. “The particularity of the Louvre Museum is that it needs to use iced-cold water to correctly conserve the artwork and to control the humidity.”

The Louvre does not use air conditioning and officials say the cooling also wins them much needed floor space in the sprawling, yet cramped, former palace that is home to 550,000 artworks.

Le Guedart said that the system is a money-saver given the rising cost of energy linked to the Ukraine conflict. It operates notably in the State Room of the Pavillon Denon where the Mona Lisa lives. Perhaps it's why beads of sweat have never trickled down the brow painted by Leonardo da Vinci.

“The energy bill of the Louvre is around 10 million euros per year in 2021. We are trying to control this bill as much as possible, amid the evident fluctuations and increases to energy costs,” Le Guedart said.

The system could save it millions by cushioning the shock as Russia continues to roil the energy market.



Night at the Mewseum: Ancient Egypt Exhibition Welcomes Cats

Shanghai Museum held its first ancient Egypt cat night for felines and their owners © AGATHA CANTRILL / AFP
Shanghai Museum held its first ancient Egypt cat night for felines and their owners © AGATHA CANTRILL / AFP
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Night at the Mewseum: Ancient Egypt Exhibition Welcomes Cats

Shanghai Museum held its first ancient Egypt cat night for felines and their owners © AGATHA CANTRILL / AFP
Shanghai Museum held its first ancient Egypt cat night for felines and their owners © AGATHA CANTRILL / AFP

A queue of glamorous visitors stood outside Shanghai Museum twitching impatiently, tails flicking and whiskers quivering as they waited to be let in for the institution's inaugural ancient Egypt cat night.

Feline tickets for Saturday night's event sold out within days, as Shanghai's devoted pet owners seized the chance to share an educational experience with their animals -- and share the photos on the mostly pedigree cats' personal social media accounts.

One pet owner told AFP she had postponed a trip to Europe to ensure she could nab one of the 200 available tickets for her regal ginger "son".

Trump -- named for his physical and psychological resemblance to the US presidential candidate -- was dressed as a Chinese emperor, and blinked haughtily as journalists flocked around him with cameras.

"I cannot imagine my life right now without a cat," his owner Amy told AFP. "So I really can have the same feeling why Egyptian persons, they valued cats on such a level."

The number of pets in China has soared, reaching over 120 million in 2023, and cats are the most popular.

The trend is being driven largely by younger generations, many of whom see their "furred kids" as a cheaper substitute for human children, experts say.

Shanghai Museum is capitalizing on that interest -- Saturday's event, heralded as a first in China, is just one of 10 planned cat nights.

As the guests of honor filed in, perched on shoulders or peering out of handbags, they had their vaccination and insurance records checked before they were transferred into a fleet of specially designed kitten-eared prams.

Claire, who had dressed herself and her German Rex Tiedan in matching Egyptian costumes, said the exhibition showed "cats have always been humans' good friends".

"Now young people are under great pressure, cats help us relieve a lot of mental pressure... probably the same as in ancient times," she said.

Cats were considered sacred in ancient Egypt, and associated in particular with Bast, a goddess of fertility, birth, and protection.

"In the modern world, kitties are a symbol of cuteness, which is very different from (ancient Egypt)," said a young woman named Feifei, clutching a resplendent white furball named Sticky Rice.

That cuteness has led to a surge in feline influencers and hopefuls.

Many of the cats at the exhibition had their own social media accounts, and one or two appeared to have small teams helping produce content.

A section on Saqqara, a historic necropolis where archaeologists recently unearthed dozens of cat mummies and artefacts from a newly discovered tomb, was filled with confused mews as the star visitors were photographed next to a Bast statue.

"There are many ancestors of cats here, I wanted to bring (Sticky Rice) to have a look," said Feifei.

Like most of his fellow felines, Sticky Rice seemed largely unmoved by the historical experience.