Why Louvre’s Mona Lisa Keeps a Smile: Paris’ Cooling System

Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
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Why Louvre’s Mona Lisa Keeps a Smile: Paris’ Cooling System

Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)
Machines work at one of Fraicheur de Paris' underground cooling sites on Tuesday, July 26, 2022, in Paris. (AP)

The Mona Lisa may maintain her famously enigmatic smile because she benefits from one of Paris’ best-kept secrets: An underground cooling system that’s helped the Louvre cope with the sweltering heat that has broken temperature records across Europe.

The little-known “urban cold” network snakes unsuspecting beneath Parisians’ feet at a depth of up to 30 meters (98 feet), pumping out icy water through 89 kilometers (55 miles) of labyrinthine pipes, which is used to chill the air in over 700 sites. The system, which uses electricity generated by renewable sources, is the largest in Europe — and chugs on around the clock with a deafening noise totally inaudible above ground.

Paris City Hall has now signed an ambitious contract to triple the size of the network by 2042 to 252 kilometers (157 miles). It would make it the largest urban cooling system in the world. The new contract intends to help the city to both adapt to and combat the threat of global warming. Many parts of Europe hit 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit) in July.

The city is extending the cooling network to hospitals, schools and metro stations over the next two decades. It’s unclear how much of the system will be operational by the time of the Paris Olympics in 2024, but it's possible the systems will be used in several Olympic sites.

Unbeknown to millions of tourists, the piping currently cools the City of Light’s most emblematic sites, such as the Louvre and the Quai Branly Museum. It might even help cool the tempers of agitated lawmakers as it is used to drop temperatures in the National Assembly.

The scheme is operated by the joint-venture company Fraicheur de Paris — 85% owned by the state’s French energy company EDF and the rest by public transport operator RATP. The company's officials tout its benefits for the entire French capital.

“If all (Parisian) buildings get equipped with autonomous installations (such as air-conditioning), it will gradually create a very significant urban ‘heat island’ effect,” said Maggie Schelfhaut of Fraicheur de Paris, referring to the increased heat in cities due to less vegetation, which cools, and more urban infrastructure, which absorbs the sun's rays.

But Schelfhaut said that the pipe network could make the whole of Paris one degree Celsius (1.8 Fahrenheit) cooler than if autonomous installations were put up across the city.

“One degree less in the city center is a lot,” she added.

Three of the 10 high-tech cooling sites lie on the Seine River and are accessed by a retractable spiral staircase barely visible from street level — in something resembling the lair of the “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.”

When the Seine’s water is cold enough, a machine captures it and uses it to chill the system’s water. The heat created as a byproduct is sent back into the Seine where it is absorbed. The chilled water is then pumped though the system's pipes to its 730 Parisian clients.

Paris’ cooling sites all use renewable energy sources such as wind turbines and solar panels. Four new solar energy sites which will feed into this network are also earmarked for construction. French officials see this energy independence as particularly important given the threat of Russia cutting off energy supplies to Europe.

Russian energy corporation Gazprom on Wednesday cut the amount of natural gas flowing through a major pipeline from Russia to Europe to 20% of its capacity. European nations are rushing to find alternatives amid fears that Russia could completely cut off gas exports — which are used for industry, to generate electricity and to cool homes — to try to gain political leverage over the bloc.

The merits of using a cooling system which uses renewable energy to operate are already being felt by sites that use them. The world’s most visited museum, the Louvre, has benefited from the network since the 1990s — with officials proud of its ecological, economic and art conservation advantages.

“It allows us to benefit from energy with a lower carbon footprint available all year round,” said Laurent Le Guedart, the Louvre’s Heritage Director. “The particularity of the Louvre Museum is that it needs to use iced-cold water to correctly conserve the artwork and to control the humidity.”

The Louvre does not use air conditioning and officials say the cooling also wins them much needed floor space in the sprawling, yet cramped, former palace that is home to 550,000 artworks.

Le Guedart said that the system is a money-saver given the rising cost of energy linked to the Ukraine conflict. It operates notably in the State Room of the Pavillon Denon where the Mona Lisa lives. Perhaps it's why beads of sweat have never trickled down the brow painted by Leonardo da Vinci.

“The energy bill of the Louvre is around 10 million euros per year in 2021. We are trying to control this bill as much as possible, amid the evident fluctuations and increases to energy costs,” Le Guedart said.

The system could save it millions by cushioning the shock as Russia continues to roil the energy market.



Fires in the West are Becoming Ever Bigger, Consuming. Why and What Can be Done?

Flames consume a vehicle as the Park Fire jburns in Tehama County, Calif., on Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)
Flames consume a vehicle as the Park Fire jburns in Tehama County, Calif., on Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)
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Fires in the West are Becoming Ever Bigger, Consuming. Why and What Can be Done?

Flames consume a vehicle as the Park Fire jburns in Tehama County, Calif., on Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)
Flames consume a vehicle as the Park Fire jburns in Tehama County, Calif., on Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)

Decades of snuffing out fires at the first sign of smoke combined with climate change have laid the groundwork for a massive wildfire in northern California and scores of smaller ones across the western US and Canada, experts say.

These fires are moving faster and are harder to fight than those in the past. The only way to stop future wildfires from becoming so ferocious is to use smaller controlled fires, as indigenous people did for centuries, experts say. But they acknowledge that change won't be easy.

Here are some things to know about the latest fires and why they are so savage:

Blazes scorch hundreds of square miles The Park Fire, the largest blaze so far this year in California, stood at 544 square miles (1,409 square kilometers) as of Saturday. It ignited Wednesday when authorities said a man pushed a burning car into a gully in Chico and then calmly blended in with others fleeing the scene.

Its intensity and dramatic spread led fire officials to make unwelcome comparisons to the monstrous Camp Fire that fire burned out of control in nearby Paradise in 2018, killing 85 people and torching 11,000 homes.

Communities elsewhere in the US West and Canada also were under siege Saturday from fast-moving flames. More than 110 active fires covering 2,800 square miles (7,250 square kilometers) were burning in the US on Friday, according to the National Interagency Fire Center.

Fires are becoming bigger and more threatening “Amped up” is how Jennifer Marlon, a research scientist at Yale’s School of the Environment, described the recent fires.

Marlon said there aren't necessarily more wildfires now, but they are larger and more severe because of the warming atmosphere. “The big message is that seeing extreme wildfires is just part of a series of unnatural disasters that we are going to continue seeing because of climate change,” she said, The AP reported.

Ten of California’s 20 largest fires occurred in the last five years, said Benjamin Hatchett, a fire meteorologist with the Cooperative Institute for Research in the Atmosphere with Colorado State University, in Fort Collins.

And he noted that the Park Fire was in eighth place as of Saturday morning, even as it continued to spread. He blamed climate change for creating more variability in weather conditions.

“We have a lot of very, very wet years and very, very dry years," Hatchett said. "And so we get a lot of this variability that helps to accumulate and then dry out fuels.”

Such is the case this year in California, where record-setting temperatures dried up the plant growth that sprung up during recent wetter-than-average years, Hatchett said.

“So now we really have a really good setup for having these widespread large wildfires," Hatchett said. "And we’re starting to push the limits of firefighting resource availability.”

These fires don't even give firefighters a chance to rest at night, said Daniel Swain, a climate scientist with the University of California, Los Angeles and the National Center for Atmospheric Research.

“They’re burning with extreme intensity straight through the overnight and just continuing on into the next day,” he said. “We’re also seeing fires burning over a longer fire season than we used to.”

Forests may have trouble recovering The fires that are burning today are sometimes so severe and hot that they transform forests into a different type of ecosystem, Swain said.

“The forest is not coming back in the same in the same way as it was in a lot of regions,” Swain said.

Part of the issue is that climate change means that there are hotter conditions as plant life returns. In some cases, trees are replaced with invasive grasses that are themselves flammable.

“So the climate change has altered the context in which these fires are occurring,” he said. “And that’s affecting not only the intensity and the severity of the fires themselves, which it clearly is at this point, but it’s also affecting the ability of ecosystems to recover afterwards.”

Snuffing out fires in the past created problems now In parts of the country, like the Midwest, farmers use fire to control trees, woody shrubs and invasive species. But not so in the western US, where fires have been extinguished in their infancy for decades.

“The problem now is we’ve allowed so much fuel to build up in some of these places that the fires burn very hot and intense. And that tends to do more damage than what nature typically will do with a fire,” said Tim Brown, a research professor at the Desert Research Institute and director of the Western Regional Climate Center in Reno, Nevada.

Fires were once commonplace in the West because of lightning strikes and indigenous burning, Hatchett said. The practice stopped during colonial settlement, but it now needs to return, Hatchett said.

“That’s the only way we’re really going to get out of this, is to really accept and embrace the use of fire on our terms,” Hatchett said. “Otherwise we’re going to get fire on the fire’s terms, which is like what we’re seeing right now.”

Doing so isn't easy because there are no longer big-open landscapes where millions of acres can burn unchecked, Swain acknowledged.

“And that’s sort of the conundrum: This is something we need to be doing more of. But the practical reality of doing so is not at all simple,” Swain said.

But he said there is no option to address the wildfire risk that doesn't involve fire.

“We’re going to see more and more fire on the ground," he said. “The question is whether we want to see it in the form of more manageable, primarily beneficial prescribed burns, or in these primarily harmful, huge, intense conflagrations that we’re increasingly seeing.”