Victor Glemaud Puts Fashion on Roller Skates at Fashion Week

The Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Saturday, Sept. 10, 2022, in New York. (AP)
The Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Saturday, Sept. 10, 2022, in New York. (AP)
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Victor Glemaud Puts Fashion on Roller Skates at Fashion Week

The Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Saturday, Sept. 10, 2022, in New York. (AP)
The Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Saturday, Sept. 10, 2022, in New York. (AP)

Tourists and New Yorkers alike crowded around the Rockefeller Center roller skating rink on Saturday trying to catch a glimpse of the vibrant statement knits on display at Victor Glemaud’s latest New York Fashion Week show.

For the Haitian American designer, who grew up in New York, the show held a sentimental meaning but served also as a marker in his career as his brand continues to grow. He launched his label in 2006 and has since collaborated on a collection with Target and forayed into home goods with Schumacher.

Glemaud’s show opened with roller skaters wearing his signature knits, bursting onto Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace rink, laughing and dancing as guests looked on. It continued with models displaying sheer looks, eye-catching cutouts, a few capes and a new collection of eyewear.

Glemaud drew inspiration for his contemporary sportswear looks from a recent trip to Harbour Island in the Bahamas. Glemaud said he wanted his collection to feel effortless, joyful and “something you want to wear in the summer.” Models strutted around the rink in skin-baring crocheted cover-ups looking like they'd just come from an ocean resort.

Glemaud’s brand was one of a record-breaking 28 Black-owned brands on display this New York Fashion Week.

“We have strived, and we love this industry,” Glemaud said of his fellow Black designers. “And, you know, our businesses for the majority are independently owned and self-financed. Fashion week means a lot. So, the more the merrier.”

During the pandemic, the designer founded “IN THE BLK,” a nonprofit collective to support Black creators in the fashion industry.

“It’s about bringing collective creative entrepreneurs together, not just fashion designers,” he said.

Glemaud’s show brought out a handful of TikTok celebrities, among them fashion influencer Brittany Xavier.

“I love that his collection is so inspired by summer and being together,” she said. “The kind of energy that we’ve been missing for the past two years.”

While Glemaud relied on a minimalist color palette and one animal print, that didn’t stop the youthfulness of his designs from shining through with his playful cut-outs. They elevated his dresses with a subtle sensuality and gave a stylish update to swimsuits.

The capes emblazoned with the letter “V” and form-fitting leopard prints would have been considered showstoppers of the night, had it not been for one moment that stood out from the rest: As the show wrapped, Glemaud’s mother, Julie, began to tear up with pride.

“The vibration, the love, the joy,” she said. “It is always fun with Victor.”



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.