Mexico Weaves Fashion Policy to Help Indigenous Communities

A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
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Mexico Weaves Fashion Policy to Help Indigenous Communities

A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP

Clothing designers inspired by traditional Mexican motifs, embroidery and colors are exhibiting their work at a fashion fair in Mexico City promoted by the government to support marginalized Indigenous communities.

Traditional blouses made by the Tzotzil people of Chiapas, embroidered patterns from Michoacan and shirts from Oaxaca were among the garments on show at the first of seven parades at the "Original" event, AFP said.

"The creation of each product made in our community is a legacy of our ancestors," said Carlos Alberto Delgado Martinez, one of around 500 exhibitors at the event, which runs until Sunday at the Los Pinos former presidential residence.

"It's important that we artisans save our culture and defend it from plagiarism because each garment has a meaning. Each embroidery has an explanation," he added.

As with the first edition in 2021, "Original" aims to fight what Mexico calls plagiarism of Indigenous textiles by foreign clothing brands, and to create a more equitable fashion industry.

"We're not opposed to (the big fashion houses) using motifs of pre-Hispanic origin" as long as they recognize "the intellectual work and creativity" of Mexican artisans, President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador said Friday.

"The government is pursuing a policy of rehabilitating the dignity of Indigenous peoples," Lopez Obrador's spokesman Jesus Ramirez Cuevas told AFP.

"Mexico would not be what it is without its Indigenous peoples," he said, underlining the government's social programs for impoverished such communities.

"It's time for them to play a central role in the construction of the (country's) identity. Today, we recognize their art," he added.

Mexico has lodged several complaints against major clothing brands including Zara, Mango and SHEIN for alleged cultural appropriation.

Last month it won an apology from US fashion house Ralph Lauren after Lopez Obrador's wife Beatriz Gutierrez accused it of plagiarizing Indigenous designs.

French designer Isabel Marant also apologized in 2020 for the use of the traditional patterns from an Indigenous community.

Mexico's culture ministry has called for "ethical collaboration" between clothing brands and artisans.

"No to plagiarism. No to cultural appropriation. Yes to original creations and the communities behind them," Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto said.

The government is also trying to retrieve pre-Hispanic archaeological pieces from abroad and stop foreign auctions of such items that Lopez Obrador has branded "immoral."

"You want to buy Mexican art? Buy this one, which is alive," Frausto said, pointing to models dressed in blouses, shirts and belts made by Indigenous artisans.



France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
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France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)

The Spanish fashion group Sociedad Textil Lonia (STL) announced Tuesday it had reached an agreement to buy France's Christian Lacroix label, hoping to return the once-mighty brand to its former glory.

The deal to acquire Lacroix from US-based Falic group, which specializes in duty-free retail, was for an undisclosed amount in a "private transaction", STL said.

"By acquiring Maison Lacroix, with its treasure of archives and rich history of French haute couture, STL expands its brand portfolio, strengthening its international presence in the world of high fashion," STL stated in a press release.

"We will do everything we can to ensure that the unique talent of its creator and his invaluable contribution to the world of fashion reach their full potential," the group added.

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group.

In 2009, following financial difficulties, the brand implemented a court-ordered recovery plan that resulted in around 100 job cuts and the discontinuation of haute couture operations.

Lacroix, now aged 73, left the group in 2010.

Having spent decades dressing celebrities, he turned to working for ballet and opera productions, as well as collaborating with other labels such as Dries Van Noten.

"The Spanish family that owns STL had the elegance to contact me ahead of the official announcement about the acquisition of the Christian Lacroix name and archives," he told Vogue Business on Tuesday. "We will probably meet soon in an informal way."

Founded in Spain in 1997, STL is a fashion company behind Spanish ready-to-wear brand Purificacion Garcia and the label of Venezuelan-American designer Carolina Herrera, employing 2,500 people and operating 600 stores worldwide, according to its website.