‘Bittersweet’ …. Sudan’s Favorite Drink during Ramadan

Sudan's Ramadan favorite helo-murr is a thirst-quenching amber liquid. (AFP)
Sudan's Ramadan favorite helo-murr is a thirst-quenching amber liquid. (AFP)
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‘Bittersweet’ …. Sudan’s Favorite Drink during Ramadan

Sudan's Ramadan favorite helo-murr is a thirst-quenching amber liquid. (AFP)
Sudan's Ramadan favorite helo-murr is a thirst-quenching amber liquid. (AFP)

As generations of Sudanese have done before her, Wissal Abdel Ghany crouched next to a fire to prepare a traditional drink, a thirst-quenching favorite enjoyed during the fasting month of Ramadan.

In Sudan, the arduously made "helo-murr", which means "bittersweet", is a drink synonymous with the Islamic holy month.

It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day's fast.

"Without it, our table feels empty," said Abdel Ghany, wearing a bright orange headscarf.

She sat in a small room in the village of Om Eshr, on the outskirts of the capital Khartoum, which teemed with a small force of women busily scraping and spreading a mixture before serving the beverage in clear glasses.

The drink has satisfied thirsty fasters for decades and recipes are "inherited from our mothers and grandmothers," the 43-year-old said.

Corn is harvested and left to dry in the sun before being ground and mixed with spices such as fenugreek, cumin or even hibiscus -- Sudan's other essential Ramadan beverage.

This mixture is then soaked in sugar and water for several days.

Abdel Ghany spread a layer of the thick brown paste over a grill plate above the coals of a wood fire, cooking it into a thin, leather-colored film.

The resulting crepe-like layer is then peeled away and stored -- ready to be soaked in the final step to create the beloved drink.

Served as cold as possible, the drink is one of many ways that fasting Sudanese cool off, a significant challenge in one of the world's hottest countries.

The brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it, with diplomats wielding wooden spoons over embers and sipping the amber liquid.

Abdel Ghany said preparing the drink is a collective effort, bringing "together our sisters and friends".

"We make it together to share among ourselves", she said.

In Sudan's cities, she added, some people don't make it themselves.

"But they still have to offer it for dinner, so they buy it ready-made," she said.

For Abdel Ghany, the preparation of helo-murr and the holy month cannot be separated.

"All it takes is a whiff of the scent coming out of a home to know that Ramadan is here," she said.



Droughts in Iraq Endanger Buffalo, and Farmers' Livelihoods

A man provides fresh drinking water for his buffaloes, in the Chebayesh marshes of Dhi Qar province, Iraq, April 18, 2025. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
A man provides fresh drinking water for his buffaloes, in the Chebayesh marshes of Dhi Qar province, Iraq, April 18, 2025. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
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Droughts in Iraq Endanger Buffalo, and Farmers' Livelihoods

A man provides fresh drinking water for his buffaloes, in the Chebayesh marshes of Dhi Qar province, Iraq, April 18, 2025. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
A man provides fresh drinking water for his buffaloes, in the Chebayesh marshes of Dhi Qar province, Iraq, April 18, 2025. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

Iraq’s buffalo population has more than halved in a decade as the country's two main rivers, the Tigris and Euphrates, suffer severe droughts that endanger the livelihood of many farmers and breeders.
"People have left ... We are a small number of houses remaining," said farmer Sabah Ismail, 38, who rears buffalo in the southern province of Dhi Qar.
"The situation is difficult ... I had 120 to 130 buffalo; now I only have 50 to 60. Some died, and we sold some because of the drought," said Ismail while tending his herd.
Buffalo have been farmed for centuries in Iraq for their milk, and are mentioned in ancient Sumerian inscriptions from the region.
According to Iraqi marshland experts, the root causes of the water crisis driving farmers out of the countryside are climate change, upstream damming in Türkiye and Iran, outdated domestic irrigation techniques and a lack of long-term management plans.
The country has also endured decades of warfare.
Located within the cultivable lands known as the Fertile Crescent that have been farmed for millennia, the Iraqi landscape has suffered from upstream damming of the Tigris and Euphrates and lower rainfall, threatening the lifestyle of farmers like Ismail and leading many to move to the cities.
Iraqi marshland expert Jassim al-Assadi told Reuters that the number of buffalo in Iraq had fallen since 2015 from 150,000 to fewer than 65,000.
The decline is "mostly due to natural reasons: the lack of needed green pastures, pollution, illness ... and also farmers refraining from farming buffalos due to scarcity of income," al-Assadi said.
A drastic decline in crop production and a rise in fodder prices have also left farmers struggling to feed their animals.
The difficulty of maintaining a livelihood in Iraq's drought-stricken rural areas has contributed to growing migration towards the country's already-choked urban centers.
"This coming summer, God only knows, the mortality rate may reach half," said Abdul Hussain Sbaih, 39, an Iraqi buffalo breeder.