Thousands of Visitors Flock to Cairo’s Historic ‘Al-Muizz Street’ in Ramadan

A bazaar on Al-Mu'izz al-Din Illah Street, one of the most
important historical streets in the Islamic quarter of Cairo. — Photo
by AFP
A bazaar on Al-Mu'izz al-Din Illah Street, one of the most important historical streets in the Islamic quarter of Cairo. — Photo by AFP
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Thousands of Visitors Flock to Cairo’s Historic ‘Al-Muizz Street’ in Ramadan

A bazaar on Al-Mu'izz al-Din Illah Street, one of the most
important historical streets in the Islamic quarter of Cairo. — Photo
by AFP
A bazaar on Al-Mu'izz al-Din Illah Street, one of the most important historical streets in the Islamic quarter of Cairo. — Photo by AFP

The ‘Al-Muizz li-Din Allah al-Fatimi Street’ in the heart of Cairo was like many other streets with closed and neglected antiquities. However, in the past few years, the street has become a favorite destination for the fans of Islamic antiquities, especially during Ramadan, after the restoration and development works that turned it into an open Islamic museum.

During a tour in the historic street this Ramadan, Asharq Al-Awsat observed thousands of visitors flocking every night to enjoy its warm ambiances and take pictures of its huge historic buildings with the help of photographers who offer their services for little money.

In the absence of professional musicians and groups, the ‘Al-Muizz li-Din Allah al-Fatimi Street’ has been hosting amateurs who try to create joyful ambiances.

‘Al-Muizz’ street includes 38 rare sites that highlight the aesthetics of the Islamic architecture over nine centuries, from the Fatimid Caliphate to the end of the Ottoman Empire.

Dr. Raafat al-Nabrawi, professor of Islamic antiquities, said ‘Al-Muizz’ street is the richest Islamic antiquities street in the world, “featuring two rare historic complexes: The Sultan Qansuh Al-Ghuri and the Sultan Qalawun, in addition to historic mosques that are still being used for prayers.”

Nabrawi attributes the crowds in the historic street to the awareness that has grown over the past few years for the importance of heritage among Egyptians, especially the younger ones. He has also called the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities to rapidly restore the antiquities that need an urgent intervention, prevent all kinds of violations, and ban the auto rickshaws that distort the visual and historic identity of the area.

In 2021, the ministry concluded a project that installed and upgraded the lightning systems in the historic street, equipping the facades and squares of historic buildings with high-end lamps.

‘Al-Muizz’ street is known with its unique archaeological buildings, some of which have turned into centers for artistic and cultural creativity, including the “House of Suhaymi”, the Sultan Qalawun complex featuring a mosque, a school and a dome inspired by the Mamluki architecture, and “Bab al-Futuh”, one of several famous gates in historic Cairo, as well as many ancient mosques including Al-Hakim Mosque, Al Muayyed Mosque, and the Aqmar Mosque.

While the northern part of the street (Al-Azhar Street: Bab al-Futuh) lures the largest number of visitors with its cafes, bazaars, and shops, the southern part, which stretches from Al-Azhar Street to “Bab Zuweila”, seems less popular. Despite featuring many antiquities, such as the Al- Muayyad Mosque and the lane of Muhammad Ali, its shops mostly sell clothes, fabrics and mattresses, and it is always crowded with people and rickshaws. Some of its ancient buildings also need restoration and external lighting, like those deployed in the northern part.

It’s worth noting that “Bab Zuweila” saw major historic events such as the hanging of the heads of messengers sent by Hulagu, leader of the Tatars, and the execution of the last Mamluk sultan, Tuman Bay. “Bab al-Futuh” was built by Jawhar al-Siqilli in 1087, and renewed by Prince Badr al-Jamali.



Year after Exodus, Silence Fills Panama Island Threatened by Sea

The evacuation of around 1,200 members of the Indigenous Guna community to a new life on the mainland was one of the first planned migrations in Latin America due to climate change. MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP
The evacuation of around 1,200 members of the Indigenous Guna community to a new life on the mainland was one of the first planned migrations in Latin America due to climate change. MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP
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Year after Exodus, Silence Fills Panama Island Threatened by Sea

The evacuation of around 1,200 members of the Indigenous Guna community to a new life on the mainland was one of the first planned migrations in Latin America due to climate change. MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP
The evacuation of around 1,200 members of the Indigenous Guna community to a new life on the mainland was one of the first planned migrations in Latin America due to climate change. MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP

Streets once filled with children's laughter have fallen silent on a Panamanian island where almost all residents left a year ago due to the threat of the sea swallowing their homes.

The evacuation of around 1,200 members of the Indigenous Guna community to a new life on the mainland was one of the first planned migrations in Latin America due to climate change.

The exodus from Gardi Sugdub in the Caribbean left those who remained with a sense of sadness, said Delfino Davies, who has a small museum on the island with spears, jars and animal bones.

"There are no friends left or children playing," he told AFP.

Gardi Sugdub now has the silence of a "dead island," he said.

Dusty desks and empty classrooms are all that remain of a school that once bustled with children.

Many of the island's wooden houses are padlocked.

"There's no one here. Sometimes I get sad when I'm here alone," Mayka Tejada, 47, said in the small store where she sells bananas, pumpkins, clothes, toys and notebooks.

Like Davies and about 100 others, she decided to stay.

But her mother and two children, aged 16 and 22, moved to one of the 300 houses built by the Panamanian government in a new neighborhood called Isber Yala on the mainland, a 15-minute boat ride away.

Gardi Sugdub, the size of around five football fields, is one of 49 inhabited islands in the Guna Yala archipelago -- also known as San Blas -- which scientists warn is in danger of disappearing by the end of the century.

'I'll die here'

Sitting in a hammock in her earthen-floor house filled with the aroma of medicinal herbs, 62-year-old Luciana Perez said she had no intention of leaving.

"I was born in Gardi and I'll die here. Nothing is sinking. Scientists don't know, only God," she said.

Perez said that she was not afraid because since she was a child she had seen big waves and rising waters flooding houses at times.

Steven Paton, a scientist at the Panama-based Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, said climate change meant that sea levels were expected to rise by up to 80 centimeters.

"Most of the Guna Yala islands are about 50 centimeters above sea level," he told AFP. "They'll be underwater."

Ana Toni, CEO of the United Nations' COP30 climate conference, told AFP that the mass evacuation "shows the reality we already have to face on the planet."

Sidewalks, water, electricity

The arrival of the rainy season has left puddles dotting the dirt roads of Gardi Sugdub.

In contrast, in the new settlement of Isber Yala -- "land of loquats" in the Guna language -- the streets are paved and have sidewalks.

The nearly 50-square-meter (500-square-feet) concrete houses have flushing toilets and there is a plot of land to grow vegetables.

On Gardi Sugdub "we lived crowded together, and I had to go fetch water from the river in a small boat," said Magdalena Martinez, a 75-year-old retired teacher.

In Isber Yala, water is available for an hour in the morning, she said.

"I can fill the buckets. And I have electricity 24 hours a day," said Martinez, who lives with her granddaughter in the new neighborhood.

Tejada's children also have no regrets about leaving the island, she said.

"I miss them, but they're happy there. They have a place to play football and walk around," Tejada said.

While the island's school relocated to Isber Yala, its dilapidated clinic remained in Gardi Sugdub.

"Before, people came on foot. Now, they have to travel by land and sea to get here. There are fewer visitors," said 46-year-old doctor John Smith.

Some of the islanders divide their time between the two communities, while others visit occasionally to check on their homes.

This week, there will be more activity than normal: seven jars of chicha -- a fermented corn drink -- are ready for Isber Yala's first anniversary.

Martinez is looking forward to the celebration, even though it will be bittersweet.

Although she may not see it herself, "the islands will disappear because the sea will reclaim its territory," she said.