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Cairo’s Marsam Al-Qalaa Draws Visitors Passionate about Heritage

A side of the breathtaking view from the atelier's balcony. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
A side of the breathtaking view from the atelier's balcony. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
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Cairo’s Marsam Al-Qalaa Draws Visitors Passionate about Heritage

A side of the breathtaking view from the atelier's balcony. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
A side of the breathtaking view from the atelier's balcony. (Asharq Al-Awsat)

In the heart of Historic Cairo, a new art space with an exceptional view of the surrounding Islamic architecture, Marsam Al-Qalaa (Castle Altier), opened its doors a few days ago.

The atelier is unique because of its location. From the seventh floor of an old building on a hill in the El-Khalifa neighborhood close to the square of the Salaheddine Al-Ayoubi Citadel (southern Cairo), the atelier offers visitors a panoramic view of the heritage buildings and monuments that surround it.

Some of these sites include the Sultan Hassan Mosque-Madrassa, Al-Rifai Mosque, Mosque of Qani-Bay al-Rammah and others, as well as the House of Egyptian Architecture and the Mostafa Kamel Museum.

The studio is home to a spacious hall and three others of various sizes: the Sultan, the Castle, and the Archives. It is furnished with simple items that mirror the neighborhood’s Islamic heritage. It also includes an 18-meter-long balcony where visitors can marvel at the breathtaking view.

Principal of the Al-Qalam School of Art for Arabic Calligraphy and Ornamentation, Mohamed Wahdan, founded the atelier.

Speaking to Asharq Al-Awsat, he said: “We have always had the idea of providing a safe and spacious haven for creatives and making it available to those interested in working in an alternative environment.”

Regarding long-term objectives, he said he was seeking to reinvigorate the surrounding area, which had always been known as the “Montmartre of the Citadel” area.

He added that he wants to work with travel and tourism agencies to make the atelier part of Historic Cairo packages.

“The studio is an independent cultural center affiliated with the Al-Qalam Foundation. It is a non-profit that offers services. We will collaborate with the Ministry of Youth and Sports, the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities in light of the state’s movement towards developing and enhancing cultural tourism in the surrounding area. And we have already drafted protocols for this cooperation,” he explained.

Inside, visitors can meet cultural and artistic titans during the events and activities it organizes. Issam Safi El-Din, founder of the Egyptian Architectural House, is among them.

He told Asharq Al-Awsat that “despite the difficulty of going up to the seventh floor - I am on the verge of turning 80 - I was determined to visit the studio because it brings something new to the Egyptian scene, and I expect that it will have developmental and social benefits.”

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Varieties

Chinese Tea Hub Branches into Coffee as Tastes Change

A worker raking coffee beans during the drying process at the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation in Pu'er - AFP
A worker raking coffee beans during the drying process at the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation in Pu'er - AFP
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Chinese Tea Hub Branches into Coffee as Tastes Change

A worker raking coffee beans during the drying process at the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation in Pu'er - AFP
A worker raking coffee beans during the drying process at the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation in Pu'er - AFP

At a mountainside cafe in southwestern China, Liao Shihao brews handfuls of locally grown beans into steaming cups of coffee, a modern twist on the region's traditional drink.

For centuries, Pu'er in Yunnan province has given its name to a type of richly fermented tea -- sometimes styled "pu-erh" -- famous across East Asia and beyond.

But as younger Chinese cultivate a taste for punchy espressos, frothy lattes and flat whites, growers are increasingly branching out into tea's historic rival.

"People are coming to try our hand-drip coffee... and more fully experience the flavours it brings," Liao, 25, told AFP.
"In the past, they mostly went for commercialised coffee, and wouldn't dabble in the artisanal varieties," he said.

Liao´s family has run the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation for three generations.

Nestled in a shady valley, spindly coffee trees line its steep hillsides, their cherry-like fruit drying on wooden pallets outside.

When AFP visited this month, clusters of tourists sipped boutique brews in the airy cafe overlooking its verdant slopes.

"It's very good," said Cai Shuwen, 21, as he perched on a bar stool lifting sample after sample to his lips.

"Even though some beans are more astringent than I imagined, others have exceeded my expectations."

- Brewing success -

Every year, Pu'er's plantations sell tens of thousands of tons of coffee to major Chinese cities, according to government data.

In metropolises such as Beijing and Shanghai, a thriving cafe scene has emerged in recent years, driven by people aged between 20 and 40.

To Liao, a trained roaster and barista, coffee from his home region possesses "a creamy flavour with a silky, viscous mouthfeel".

Modern commercial plantations only sprang up in Pu'er in the 1980s, and the area is still better known for its centuries-old tea trade.

Liao's grandfather, Liao Xiugui, said "nobody knew anything about coffee" when he arrived in Pu'er a few decades ago.

At the time, the older man was one of very few people in China who had studied coffee cultivation.

But the region's relatively high altitude and temperate climate were well-suited to the unfamiliar crop, the now 83-year-old told AFP.

"The quality of the coffee we plant here is strong but not too bitter, floral but not too heady, and slightly fruity," he added.

Free from artificial pesticides and interspersed with other species for biodiversity, Little Hollow yields about 500 tons of raw coffee fruit per year.

Liao Xiugui himself drinks two or three cups a day, and credits the caffeinated beverage for keeping him spry in his advanced years.

"Drinking coffee can make you younger and healthier... and prevent ageing," he smiled.

"Also, everyone is tired at work these days... and they want to give their brains a boost."

- Richer pickings -

China's coffee output has risen dramatically in recent years, though it still lags far behind traditional powerhouses such as Brazil, Vietnam and Colombia.

Yunnan, near three borders with Southeast Asian nations, accounts for virtually all of China's coffee production, much of it concentrated in Pu'er.

On a visit to Yunnan last month, President Xi Jinping said the province's coffee "represents China", according to state media.

Keen to further expand the sector, officials have rolled out policies to improve production, attract investment and boost exports, according to government statements.

They have also merged coffee production with tourism, dovetailing with a central government push to increase domestic consumption.

Longtime farmer Yu Dun, 51, said she had opened new income streams with plantation tours, homestays and a restaurant fusing coffee with the cuisine of her native Dai ethnicity.

Her prospects were bright, she said, adding that she also earned "10 times" more revenue from her beans since learning to process and roast them herself.

"We used to say only rich people could drink coffee, but that's all changed now," she said.