Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
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Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

From an absurdly opulent film shoot at the Opera Garnier to a Chanel catwalk along the Seine, fashion week offered a very different view of Paris on Tuesday from the riots of recent days.

The country is still licking its wounds and facing up to the deep societal divisions exposed by days of violence sparked a week ago by the police killing of a teenager, said AFP.

The riots have died down since the weekend, and it was the other France -- of unbridled luxury, craftsmanship and conspicuous excess -- that took center-stage on the second day of haute couture week.

Chanel's models paraded alongside the River Seine with the Eiffel Tower in the background, some with little dogs or baskets of flowers, in a show of "sophistication and simplicity," said designer Virginie Viard.

She mixed tweeds, silk muslins, organzas and encrusted lace with floral and graphic motifs. A few bright colors, including Barbie pink, stood out against a largely grey palette.
Over at the Opera Garnier, the 19th-century monument to late-imperial excess, couturier Stephane Rolland put on a fabulously opulent show that was also being filmed by veteran filmmaker Claude Lelouch for his next movie, "Finalement".
There was a strapless velvet dress with a glittering diamond hood, an elaborate headpiece that looked like a mass of gold flames, and a long red satin dress with a bejewelled collar.

The show was an homage to Greek singer Maria Callas, whose voice was heard through the show, aimed at reliving one of her most legendary performances at the Opera Garnier in December 1958.

Rolland is known for bright colors, such as the bright-yellow dress in which he put singer Pretty Yende for the coronation of King Charles III recently.

But he said "in the heart of the Palais Garnier, I didn't want to disturb the scenery with pinks, yellows and greens" and stuck mostly to black, white and a few flashes of deep red.
Actors mingled with the guests for the upcoming movie from Lelouch, best-known for his Oscar-winning 1966 film "A Man and a Woman".

The director's request to film during the show was "like a gift from heaven," Rolland told AFP, adding that it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.

"It's very important in our profession. I find that from time to time it lacks a bit of refinement. Money is not everything," he said.
Also showing on Tuesday was French designer Alexis Mabille, who created a female take on the tuxedo.

And there was another luxurious display from Giorgio Armani, all sumptuous ballgowns adorned with many variations on poppies and roses.

Red was a dominant color for the Italian -- even for the wedding dress at the end.



Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
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Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo

Shares of Kering traded down 5% in European morning trade on Thursday, after the group reported a first-quarter sales drop that was worse than analysts' expectations.

Kering after the market close on Wednesday posted a 14% decline in sales, with a 25% drop at flagship label Gucci, the latest signal the luxury sector faces another tough year.

The sales report confirmed "a weakening backdrop" since February, said analysts at Jefferies, noting "the uncertainties around reigniting Gucci's desirability remain plentiful".

The brand, which accounts for around two-thirds of group profits, is betting on in-house talent Demna to revive sales, but new designs will only arrive gradually at the end of the year, Reuters reported.

The French luxury group flagged worsening sales in North America and Western Europe and said it expected sales to continue to fall in double digits, percentage-wise, in the second quarter, before starting to improve.

This leaves the "heavy lifting" for the second half, which will likely depend on a recovery in Chinese demand, noted analysts at Bernstein.

Prospects for the luxury industry, which had pinned hopes on growth from the United States to help pull it out of a slump as the Chinese market remains weak, have been darkened by recession fears prompted by US President Donald Trump's tariff announcements.

As trade tensions have risen, Bellwether LVMH has fallen 23% and Burberry and Kering have both lost 30% since the start of the year. Hermes and Cartier-owner Richemont, viewed by analysts as better insulated from economic downturns because of their wealthier clientele, are up 1% and 3%, respectively.

First-quarter reports from Kering's larger rivals last week also reflected the sector's slowdown and disappointed investors, with sales at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division down 5% while Hermes, which routinely outpaces expectations with double-digit growth, posted a 7% rise.

Analysts at Deutsche Bank on Thursday lowered their 2025 earnings per share estimate for Kering this year by 13% to 8.65 euros ($9.84), citing the company's cautious outlook for the first half, and noting the slowdown in all regions except Asia was slightly worse than peers.

TD Cowen lowered sales forecasts for Gucci this year by 15% to a 20% decline.

The analysts added that Gucci, as well as another Kering label Yves Saint Laurent, were expected to be slower to raise prices to offset tariffs than peers. The Kering labels have a broader base of less-wealthy clients who are more reluctant to splash out in a choppy economic environment.

LVMH, meanwhile, has raised prices of some Louis Vuitton handbags and leather goods by around 4% according to Bernstein and Barclays, while Hermes said it will pass on the full effect of tariffs to shoppers in the United States on May 1.

US tariffs could include a 20% charge on European fashion and leather goods and 31% for Swiss-produced watches if fully applied, but Trump earlier this month paused most of his tariffs for 90 days, setting a general 10% duty rate instead.

The price hikes from Vuitton are "more than enough" to offset even 20% tariffs, said Bernstein.