‘Sami’: ‘Caesar’ Approached Me with Photos of Torture Victims, We Teamed up Against the Dangers

Asharq Al-Awsat publishes the whole story of "Sami" and "Caesar".

Osama Othman sits down for an interview with Asharq Al-Awsat Editor-in-Chief Ghassan Charbel. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
Osama Othman sits down for an interview with Asharq Al-Awsat Editor-in-Chief Ghassan Charbel. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
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‘Sami’: ‘Caesar’ Approached Me with Photos of Torture Victims, We Teamed up Against the Dangers

Osama Othman sits down for an interview with Asharq Al-Awsat Editor-in-Chief Ghassan Charbel. (Asharq Al-Awsat)
Osama Othman sits down for an interview with Asharq Al-Awsat Editor-in-Chief Ghassan Charbel. (Asharq Al-Awsat)

For ten years, the world was eager to uncover the real identity of two men: “Sami” and “Caesar”, who had smuggled photos of victims of torture in the jails of Syria’s ousted President Bashar al-Assad. Their documentation of the torture led the United States to issue the Caesar Act and for trials against Syrian regime members to be held in Europe.

After Assad’s downfall on December 8, Sami chose to reveal his identity – Osama Othman – to Asharq Al-Awsat. Asharq Al-Awsat sat down with him in Paris to recount how Caesar and Sami were born and their journey from the Damascus countryside to world courts in pursuit of justice.

*How did you feel when you learned that Assad had fled Syria?

The truth is we were denied the joy of seeing Assad personally declare that he was leaving power. He never announced his resignation or that he was leaving the country. He simply got on a plane and left Syria. His ouster was not confirmed by a decisive moment, but we had to wait several days for confirmation that he was indeed no longer in Syria and that Syria was now “free Syria” not “Assad’s Syria.” So, our joy took place over stages and an extended period of days that were tinged with hope, fear and anticipation.

*What was your partner Caesar’s reaction to the news?

I haven’t been able to contact Caesar because we were so frantic to confirm that Assad had indeed been toppled and because we were waiting to see what happens next. The truth is that the rapid unfolding of developments and my concerns prevented me from contacting Caesar. This is the moment that we have been waiting for and it has finally been realized. I will use your platform to say to him: “We made it, Caesar.” We achieved what we had sought out to accomplish. We have toppled Assad. “Sami” and Caesar” didn’t do it, but it is the blood of the martyrs in the jails and outside of them. It is the efforts of all Syrians who paid so dearly in blood to reach this moment. We are free. Syria is free.

*So you feel that your work over those long years has not gone to waste?

I believe that the Syrian people have paid a greater price than what a criminal like Assad deserved. He hadn’t remained in his position for all those years due to his intelligence, strength or love of his people. We all know that he remained in power through his regime’s oppressive security apparatus, his allies and all members of his criminal militias, which he brought to Syria to slaughter the people and rob the country.

*Are Assad’s allies partners in the torture?

Assad’s partners are partners in Syria’s destruction. In my position in a rights organization with scores of files on detainees killed under torture, I cannot pin blame on this side or that without evidence. But logically, of course, they were partners in killing everyone who was killed in Syria. They are responsible for every drop of blood spilled. Assad’s allies are partners in his. Everyone who raised their hand at the United Nations Security Council to veto a resolution that liberates the Syrians from Assad’s rule and oppressive regime are complicit as well.

A man stands underground at Seydnaya prison as prisoners' relatives and members of the Syrian civil defense group, known as the White Helmets, search for prisoners in Seydnaya, Syria, December 9, 2024. (Reuters)

The First Photo

*When did you get the idea to gather the evidence of torture in Syrian jails?

It was during the early days of the revolution, perhaps May 2011. I agreed with Caesar to gather photos that he had obtained and which he had told me at the time showed evidence of extreme torture. Before the revolution, the department concerned with gathering legal evidence received photos of accidents involving members of state and security institutions and the army. The photos were taken regularly and routinely.

When the revolution erupted, photos emerged of people who had come under extreme torture and it was evident that they had not died under normal circumstances or in an accident. At this point Caesar did not want to be involved in even capturing these atrocities. He wanted to distance himself completely from this criminal machine, either by defecting, which would have exposed him or his family to extreme danger or by somehow retiring or resigning from the army.

During this time, my memory of the people who had gone missing in the 1982 Hama massacre was still raw. There are thousands of cases of missing people whose death or detention the state has never acknowledged. Under the law, they are deemed missing, which created a lot of legal problems for families. This was a major problem that had persisted for decades. So, I thought about how gathering evidence would provide our Syrian people proof of what happened to their loved ones, who had been detained during protests, on the streets or during raids.

Despite how horrific the situation was, it would at least provide clear legal evidence and offer the families some form of relief. Relief as in they would no longer live in agony of not knowing whether their loved ones are alive or not.

We decided to gather the data. Since the Egyptian and Tunisian revolts were only a few months in at the time, we believed that the Syrian revolution would perhaps end in a few months as well and we would be able to reveal these documents to our people in Syria. But the months stretched on and the regime grew more brutal and scores of Syrians were killed. We started to routinely collect the documents, not thinking about what we would do with them next. We lived in fear of the regime attacks and its random raids.

*How did you respond when Caesar showed you the first photo? You had to make a choice, either forget about it or forge ahead. What did you feel in that moment?

You can expect anything from the Syrian regime. We were mentally prepared from the start to confront this criminal regime. The arrests and deaths under torture were nothing new to the regime and to us. What was new was the rate of the killing, which reached dozens daily. Caesar would take photos of a large number of corpses every day. The regime had for decades committed these crimes against the Syrian people, but the difference was that today, we had the technology to collect evidence.

*What did you say to Caesar when you first saw the photos?

At first, I was worried about Caesar because he could at any moment become a victim like those in his photos. I told him that we must collect these photos. Caesar’s job at the military allowed him to collect a lot of data that would help us. We didn’t believe at the time that the issue would develop into a global case to criminally pursue the regime.

*How did Caesar feel about this?

Caesar had two choices: either quit his job, which would expose him and his relatives to danger, or find a legal way out of his work. However, he believed that quitting wouldn’t do us or our people justice. Obviously, I didn’t pressure Caesar into continuing his work. We made the decision together out of our conviction. We shared the danger, concerns and work.

*Did you think that your actions could cost you your life at any moment?

The Assad regime was a threat and danger to every human being in Syria, whether they had done anything wrong or not. We were under constant danger, even before the revolution erupted. It is the revolt that helped speed up the process of collecting evidence and exposing the regime’s crimes.

What we did was archive the data, which defintely came with its risks. But, amid the revolt, everyone was paying in blood for freedom, so I never thought that what I am doing was more dangerous than what everyone else was going through. On the contrary, I thought I was playing my own role in this uprising.

A damaged picture of Syria's Bashar al-Assad lies on the floor inside Qamishli international airport, after Syrian opposition factions announced that they have ousted Assad, in Qamishli, Syria December 9, 2024. (Reuters)

Team Grows

*So at the beginning it was just you and Caesar?

In the first months, yes. We kept our work secret from our families. Afterwards, we had to build a team around us to protect me and Caesar and provide assistance that would prevent the data, should one or both of us get killed, from being lost. The team began to expand after two or three months.

*How did you maintain secrecy?

Secrecy was not absolute. I can’t claim to have been surrounded by complete secrecy at the beginning. Before we left the country, only six people, including my brother and Caesar, knew about what we were doing. My wife, of course, knew. In the end, it was seven people.

Missing Eyes

*Where was the first photo taken from?

The photos came from the legal evidence department at the military police branch, meaning the victims in the photos were killed under torture at the security branches across Damascus. There were no photos that indicated the victims were from Seydnaya prison.

*What was the most brutal branch? Did torture differ from one branch to another?

When I started sorting the photos according to which branch they came from, I realized that around 50 percent of the victims came from “Branch 215.” At another branch, 227, I noticed that the majority of the victims had missing eyes. I can’t say that the eyes were removed or became decomposed after death. Insects were eating the eyes in their sockets. This was evident in a large number of photos. Perhaps the decomposition of the body made it seem that eyes were missing or maybe the insects were what ate them.

*Where the victims shot dead or killed by sharp objects?

I leave this for the experts. I may have my own opinion, but since this is a legal file, I won’t say it. German authorities have a full copy of the file and they are examining the data. When I say that the data incriminates Assad, my statements are worthless because I don't have the legal expertise. So, I sought to keep the files away from the media and political debates and entrusted them to German and French authorities. I gave them my testimony so that if anything happens to Sami and Caesar, the information will not be lost.

One Woman

*Were there woman and children among the victims?

We found one woman only. As for the children, we found many under the age of 18. Not just that. We also found patients. It was evident that they were taken out of hospitals or were killed while they were receiving treatment. I cannot be conclusive, but you can see medical equipment, such as tubes in arms, catheters, serum bags, and others, still attached to the body. This was all evidence that they were receiving some form of treatment.

*Were there any labels on the victims after they were killed? How did they give a cause of death?

They would simply state “death of detainee numbered so and so”. That’s all.

*So no cause of death is given?

I will leave this to Caesar to explain himself when he chooses to reveal himself. This is at the heart of his work at the military departments.

*How many photos have been obtained?

There could be up to six photos taken of a single victim, based on their injuries or physical traits. So we have some 27,000 photos of some 7,000 victims.

Posters of missing people hang on a monument in the center of Marjeh Square in Damascus on December 26, 2024. (AFP)

Leaving Syria

*When did you stop collecting evidence?

By the end of 2013, the situation had grown too dangerous for the people involved. We could have stayed and collected more, but weighing the danger, we believed it was best to get out of Syria before being busted and losing all the work we accomplished and even our families.

I was not wanted by the regime, so I was able to normally leave Syria to Lebanon in the end of 2013. My family and Caesar left Syria soon after and we ended our work of documenting the victims. We don’t have anything from after September 2013. I spent less than two weeks in Beirut. I managed to get our families and Caesar out of Syria. We eventually settled for a while in Qatar.

Caesar never accompanied me when I left. It was just me and another person. Caesar was still at his job in Syria when I left. He never went to Beirut. I will leave it to him to answer how he left Syria.

*What happened in Qatar?

I was in Doha with Caesar and others. We verified again that this man was indeed working for the regime’s military institution and that these photos were genuine and not fakes. This was before I handed the file to the German authorities. This was the beginning of “Sami” and “Caesar”.

Caesar is the “king witness” as they say in Arabic. The term seemed a bit long. One of the gatherers suggested “Caesar” as in king, and so it was. The gatherers said I also needed a name. I chose “Sami” after a dear close friend, who I haven’t seen in 15 years. Sami is an easy name in different languages.

After Doha, I headed to Türkiye and then Europe.

*Did you receive any support from countries or organizations?

We never received any such support. At that time, we were working with a group of Syrian dissidents and we never came in contact with our hosts in Qatar or elsewhere. We are simply people who are not part of any organization.

When we arrived in Europe, we sensed the burden we were carrying. Soon after, the world started to become less interested in Syria and the regime started to reclaim territory after Russia’s intervention. At that moment, I asked myself: why did I take on such dangers? Why did I expose my relatives to them? What was the point? Was the point heading to Europe where I would become a refugee? This is not why I did all of this and this is not what I want for myself and my children. I sensed that my mission and goals were slipping away from me, so I decided to take action.

I contacted French authorities and informed them that I wanted them to have a copy of the file. I said I wanted to testify before the war crimes court and so it was. But it turned out that France could do nothing if the criminal or victim weren’t French or residing on its territories. Germany did so and so we took our case to it.

Our work was based on consolidating a main principle that the regime was criminal and had committed human rights violations and genocide. We were also motivated by preventing the regime from being allowed to polish its images in any way, shape or form, regardless of the developments in Syria. We threw a wrench in efforts to normalize ties with the regime. So, for years, the “Caesar file” was the main obstacle for the regime to end its international isolation.

A Syrian military defector using the pseudonym “Caesar” wears a hood as he testifies before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee during a hearing titled, Nine Years of Brutality: Assad's Campaign Against the Syrian People on Capitol Hill in Washington, US, March 11, 2020. (Reuters)

Caesar Act

*Whose idea was it to go to the United States?

We never had plans to go to the US, but some Syrian organizations working there pressured us into presenting the case to the American administration. I was persuaded that Barack Obama’s administration was not interested in even opening the file due to an incident when I was in Jordan. At the time, some of the earliest photos of the file were sent to the State Department through a defected Syrian lawmaker. The State Department never showed any form of interest in the issue.

Around a year later, the Syrian groups in the US pressured us to approach Washington. They knew how things worked in the administration and how to use this file to make a difference, even if the man in the White House didn’t want to. It was a long battle we waged with our Syrian brothers in the US that was crowned with the issuing of the “Caesar Syria Civilian Protection Act”, or “Caesar Act”.

*Do you believe the Caesar Act helped curb the work of the regime?

We may have to examine closely what impact the Act had on the regime, but it certainly made it difficult for it to rebuild its military machine. It was still able to support its forces and Shabiha (thugs), even the militias it brought in from other countries, to commit more killing and exercise more oppression in Syria.

In the end, this is an American law that meets the interests of the Syrian people in several aspects. I don’t want to say that the Caesar Act was the sole crowning achievement of the Caesar file. Several great efforts were exerted by Syrian organizations in the US and the file was named in honor of this man.

*The interview continues on Wednesday.



Why Metal Prices are Soaring to Record Highs

A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
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Why Metal Prices are Soaring to Record Highs

A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP

Precious and industrial metals are surging to record highs as the year ends, driven by economic and geopolitical uncertainty, robust industrial demand and, in some cases, tight supply.

Below AFP examines the reasons for the surge in demand.

- Safe havens -

Gold and silver are traditionally seen as safe-haven assets, and demand has soared amid mounting geopolitical tensions, from US President Donald Trump's tariffs onslaught to wars in Ukraine and Gaza, as well as recent pressure by Washington on Caracas.

Investors are also uneasy about rising public debt in major economies and the risk of a bubble in the artificial intelligence sector.

These uncertainties are driving up gold and silver, with other metals now starting to see the impact as investors seek to diversify their portfolios, explained John Plassard, an analyst at Cite Gestion Private Bank.

"Metal is once again becoming insurance rather than just a speculative asset," he told AFP.

- A weak dollar -

Traditional safe havens like the dollar and US Treasuries have become less attractive this year.

Uncertainty around Trump's presidency and the prospect of further Federal Reserve interest rate cuts, have weakened the dollar, reducing its appeal to investors.

As a result, many investors are turning to gold and silver.

Gold has climbed more than 70 percent this year and passed $4,500 an ounce for the first time on Wednesday, while silver reached a record high of $72 an ounce, with prices up about 2.5 times since January.

A weak dollar is also boosting industrial metals, since commodities priced in dollars become cheaper for buyers when the currency falls.

- Fresh demand -

Industrial demand has surged in recent months, driven by the rise of artificial intelligence and the energy transition.

Copper, used for solar panels, wind turbines, electric vehicle batteries and data centers, has seen strong gains as a result.

Prices hit a record on Wednesday, topping $12,000 a ton, helped further by China, the world's largest copper consumer, announcing new measures to boost demand.

Aluminium, a cheaper alternative to copper, and silver are also benefiting from the AI boom and the shift to renewable energy.

Platinum and palladium, used in car catalytic converters, have also risen, reaching a record high and a three-year high respectively, after the European Union decided to allow sales of new internal combustion vehicles beyond 2035.

- Tight supply -

Copper prices have been lifted this year by fears of US tariffs, prompting companies to stockpile ahead of their introduction, with duties imposed on semi-finished products and potentially extending to refined copper.

Supply risks from disruptions at mines in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Chile and Indonesia have added to the price surge.

Physical markets for silver, platinum, and aluminium are also tight.

According to Ole Hansen, an analyst at Saxo Bank, thin holiday trading, which increases volatility, and investor fear of missing out have further amplified the rise at the end of the year.


How Trump’s Decisions Reshaped Syria

A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
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How Trump’s Decisions Reshaped Syria

A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)

In a crowded regional and international landscape shaped by overlapping security, strategic, economic, and political pressures, the administration of US President Donald Trump has moved since its return to the White House in January 2025 to recalibrate its approach to Syria.

After years of US policy marked by hesitation and competing agendas, particularly under the administrations of Barack Obama and Joe Biden, Washington is now pursuing a more direct and openly pragmatic course, one focused on achieving tangible results on the ground and managing delicate balances, rather than ideological commitments or long-term strategic gambles.

The shift reflects profound changes inside Syria itself, led by the collapse of the former regime and the emergence of a new government seeking to consolidate domestic legitimacy and secure international recognition.

These developments coincide with the persistent threat posed by ISIS, a retreat in Iranian influence, and the expanding regional roles of Saudi Arabia, Türkiye, and Qatar.

Within this evolving landscape, Washington is repositioning its policy in line with what officials describe as Trump’s Middle East doctrine, centered on enforcing stability, limiting the costs of direct military involvement, and opening pathways for reconstruction, development, and investment.

Interests before ideology

Commenting on this shift, Firas Fahham, a researcher at the Abaad Studies Center, said President Trump’s policy toward Syria could be described as “decidedly pragmatic,” focusing primarily on international and economic interests while setting aside the ideological or intellectual background of Syria’s new government.

Fahham said the central pillar of the emerging convergence between Washington and Damascus was preventing the return of Iranian influence to Syria, a goal that sits at the top of the current US administration’s priorities.

He added that this approach could not be separated from the positions of Arab states allied with the United States, which have openly supported the new Syrian government, led by Saudi Arabia, followed by Türkiye and Qatar.

Fahham said the Trump administration had shown a willingness to respond to these positions, viewing them as a key foundation for rebuilding regional alliances.

Comparing the approach with previous administrations, Fahham said the policies of Obama and Biden had been closer to allowing Iran a free hand in the region and supporting minority influence, particularly through close cooperation with the Syrian Democratic Forces, known as the SDF.

He said this had complicated the landscape and weakened prospects for establishing a strong central state capable of maintaining security and preventing the return of extremist groups.

From Riyadh to Washington...turning points

Fahham traced key milestones in Trump’s new policy, saying the starting point came during meetings held in Riyadh in June, when the US president, at the request of Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, announced the lifting of sanctions on Syria.

He described the move as the first positive signal from Washington toward Damascus. This was followed by a trilateral meeting bringing together Trump, the Saudi Crown Prince, and Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa, during which the US president offered notable praise for his Syrian counterpart, reflecting Washington’s desire for political openness.

The most important moment, Fahham said, came at the Washington summit held in November, when Trump received President al-Sharaa at the White House in what he described as a pivotal turning point.

Following the meeting, the US administration began concrete efforts to pressure Congress to repeal the Caesar Act, while announcing Syria’s inclusion in the international coalition against ISIS.

This, Fahham said, shifted the relationship from limited coordination to something resembling an alliance.

The SDF and the future of eastern Syria

On the issue of the Syrian Democratic Forces, Fahham said the Trump administration was dealing with the matter from a strictly practical standpoint, balancing its interests with Syria’s new government, reflected in reduced support for the SDF compared with the Biden era, and its interests with its Turkish ally.

Washington, he said, now views Damascus as the most effective actor in the fight against ISIS.

This assessment, he said, was based on recommendations from US research centers. They concluded that previous reliance on the Kurdish component alone, and practices associated with it in eastern Syria, had created a sense of grievance that ISIS later exploited for recruitment.

As a result, the administration became convinced that cooperation with Damascus was more effective.

In a related context, Fahham said Washington viewed Israeli incursions in southern Syria with dissatisfaction, considering them destabilizing and contrary to Trump’s vision for regional development.

The United States, he added, fears that weakening the Syrian government could reopen the door to renewed Iranian influence and ISIS activity.

As for the southern province of Sweida, Fahham said the US administration supports integrating the province into the state, citing remarks by US envoy Tom Barrack, who stated that decentralization had failed in the Middle East, reflecting a preference for backing a unified Syria.

A parallel reading from the military establishment

From another angle, researcher on armed groups Raed al-Hamed offered a complementary reading of the US position.

He said that although Trump, during his first term, had moved toward withdrawing forces and ending the partnership with the SDF, warnings from senior military commanders about a possible ISIS resurgence after the battle of Baghouz in March 2019 prompted him to keep about 2,000 troops in Syria.

Al-Hamed noted that the partnership with the SDF dated back to the battle of Kobani in 2015, when Washington relied on the group as a ground force.

However, he said the new policy following the fall of Bashar al-Assad’s regime and Syria’s entry into the international coalition was now based on refusing to recognize any independent entity east of the Euphrates and rejecting federal formulas similar to Iraq’s Kurdistan region.

Al-Hamed said the new policy offered no real US guarantees to the SDF in the face of Türkiye and coincided with pressure to integrate the group into Syria’s military and security institutions, in line with the vision of the Syrian government, which rejects any armed presence outside the framework of the state.

This, he said, is still rejected by the SDF as the deadline approaches for implementing the March agreement with the government in Damascus, scheduled for the end of this year.

Overall, the Syrian scene appears to have entered a pivotal phase that goes beyond traditional conflict equations, laying the groundwork for a new reality governed by the language of interests and reciprocal security arrangements.

While Washington and its regional allies, particularly Riyadh and Ankara, are betting on the ability of the new leadership in Damascus to impose stability and end years of chaos, observers say the success of this path will depend on developments on the ground in the coming months.

The ability of the “new republic” to balance the demands of internal reconciliation with the conditions of external alliances will be the decisive test in determining whether this turn truly marks the opening chapter of an end to years of US hesitation in the region.


Thousands Flock to Bethlehem to Revive Christmas Spirit after 2 Years of War in Gaza

 Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
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Thousands Flock to Bethlehem to Revive Christmas Spirit after 2 Years of War in Gaza

 Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

Thousands of people flocked to Bethlehem's Manger Square on Christmas Eve as families heralded a much-needed boost of holiday spirit. The giant Christmas tree that was absent during the Israel-Hamas war returned on Wednesday, overlooking a parade of scouts playing songs on bagpipes.

The city where Christians believe Jesus was born cancelled Christmas celebrations for the past two years. Manger Square had instead featured a nativity scene of baby Jesus surrounded by rubble and barbed wire in homage to the situation in Gaza, The AP news reported.

Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Catholic leader in the Holy Land, kicked off this year's celebrations during the traditional procession from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, calling for “a Christmas full of light.”

Arriving in Manger Square, Pizzaballa said he came bearing greetings from Gaza's tiny Christian community, where he held a pre-Christmas Mass on Sunday. Among the devastation, he saw a desire to rebuild.

“We, all together, we decide to be the light, and the light of Bethlehem is the light of the world,” he told thousands of people, Christian and Muslim.

Despite the holiday cheer, the impact of the war in the Israeli-occupied West Bank is acute, especially in Bethlehem, where around 80% of the Muslim-majority city’s residents depend upon tourism-related businesses, according to the local government.

The vast majority of people celebrating were residents, with a handful of foreigners in the crowd. But some residents said they are starting to see signs of change as tourism slowly returns.

Loss of tourism devastates Bethlehem “Today is a day of joy, a day of hope, the beginning of the return of normal life here,” said Bethlehem resident Georgette Jackaman, a tour guide who has not worked in more than two years.

She and her husband, Michael Jackaman, another guide, are from established Christian Bethlehem families that stretch back generations. This is the first real Christmas celebration for their two children, aged 2 1/2 and 10 months.

During the war, the Jackamans pivoted to create a website selling Palestinian handicrafts to try to support others who have lost their livelihoods.

During the Gaza war, the unemployment rate in the city jumped from 14% to 65%, Bethlehem Mayor Maher Nicola Canawati said earlier this month.

A visitor from France, Mona Riewer, said that “I came because I wanted to better understand what people in Palestine are going through, and you can sense people have been through a very hard time."

Although friends and family cautioned her against coming due to the volatile situation, Riewer said being in Bethlehem helped her appreciate the meaning of the holiday.

“Christmas is like hope in very dark situations, a very vulnerable child experiencing harshness,” she said.

Despite the Gaza ceasefire that began in October, tensions remain high across much of the West Bank.

Israel’s military continues to carry out frequent raids in what it says is a crackdown on militants. Attacks by Israeli settlers against Palestinians have reached their highest level since the United Nations humanitarian office started collecting data in 2006. Israel captured the West Bank in the 1967 Mideast war.

The internationally recognized Palestinian Authority has limited autonomy in parts of the territory, including Bethlehem. Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas is expected to attend midnight Mass for the first time in two years, the mayor said.

As poverty and unemployment have soared, about 4,000 people have left Bethlehem in search of work, the mayor said. It’s part of a worrying trend for Christians, who are leaving the region in droves.

Christians account for less than 2% of the West Bank’s roughly 3 million residents. Across the Middle East, the Christian population has steadily declined as people have fled conflict and attacks.

The beginning of a return to normal life Fadi Zoughbi, who previously worked overseeing logistics for tour groups, said his children were ecstatic to see marching bands streaming through Bethlehem's streets.

The scouts represent cities and towns across the West Bank, with Palestinian flags and tartan draped on their bagpipes, drummers spinning mallets adorned with pompoms. For the past two years, the scouts marched silently as a protest against the war.

Irene Kirmiz, who grew up in Bethlehem and now lives in Ramallah, said the scout parade is among her favorite Christmas traditions. Her 15-year-old daughter plays the tenor drum with the Ramallah scouts.

But her family had to wake up at 5 a.m. to arrive in time for the parade and waited upwards of three hours at Israeli checkpoints. The drive previously took 40 minutes without the checkpoints that have increasingly made travel difficult for Palestinians, she said.

“It's very emotional seeing people trying to bounce back, trying to celebrate peace and love,” Kirmiz said.

The Israeli Ministry of Tourism estimates 130,000 tourists will visit Israel by the end of December, including 40,000 Christians. In 2019, a banner year for tourism before the pandemic, the tourism ministry said 150,000 Christian tourists visited during Christmas week alone.

During the previous two years, the heads of churches in Jerusalem urged congregations to forgo “any unnecessarily festive activities.” They encouraged priests and the faithful to focus on Christmas’ spiritual meaning and called for “fervent prayers for a just and lasting peace for our beloved Holy Land.”