Soaring High: Indonesian Speed Climbers Race for Rare Olympic Gold

Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
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Soaring High: Indonesian Speed Climbers Race for Rare Olympic Gold

Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP

Indonesian speed climber Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi checks her harness, her brow dripping with sweat and her breaths labored, gripping the hold and swinging her body upwards to scale a wall in mere seconds.
The 23-year-old is training for next month's Paris Olympics, where she hopes to add to Indonesia's meager tally of gold medals -- the country has only ever won eight, all in badminton, AFP said.
But in recent years the Southeast Asian archipelago has gained recognition as an unlikely force in speed climbing, smashing records and nabbing multiple medals at top international events.
Climbing -- combining three forms of the sport -- was first included at the Olympics in Tokyo in 2021. Paris 2024 will see speed climbing become a separate event for the first time.
Competitors scramble up a standardized 15-meter (50-foot) vertical route and the one who reaches the top in the fastest time, typically just a few seconds, wins.
"As it gets closer, I don't want to think about anything else," Desak, one of two Indonesian speed climbers to have so far qualified for Paris, told AFP after a training session at the national team's facility outside the capital Jakarta.
"I just focus on the Olympics."
Indonesian climbers have excelled in the speed format because their typically slight stature gives them speed and agility. Pure dedication and teamwork is also behind the success.
"If we keep bemoaning about our lack of height, we will never be able to compete," national wall-climbing coach Hendra Basir told AFP.
"So we focus on our advantage as small people. We have been blessed with agility."
Long process
Desak has been climbing since childhood and now has a chance to make her Olympic dream come true after winning gold in the women's speed event at a world championship in Switzerland last year.
Joining Desak in going for gold in the French capital will be Rahmad Adi Mulyono, 23, after he won a qualifier against another Indonesian to advance.
"At first of course I felt a burden, but as time goes by I have a nothing-to-lose attitude," he told AFP.

Both decided to focus on speed climbing instead of lead and boulder, the two other climbing disciplines featured in Tokyo.
"I am optimistic. What I first need to do is upgrade myself, focus, and shorten the time (to the top) every time I train," said Rahmad.
Hendra said the athletes had spent years training to make sure Indonesia, which has not generally excelled in global sport, has a chance of achieving Olympic gold.
"We have gone through a very long process from 2019, starting from qualification for the Tokyo Olympics, and not to mention the (pandemic) break," said the coach.
'Sliver of hope'
While speed climbing remains firmly behind football and badminton in terms of sporting attention at home, its popularity is growing.
But the local sports industry remains underdeveloped for speed climbing and other climbing disciplines, leaving athletes with often greater walls to climb.
"God willing there's a sliver of hope that the Indonesian team can compete to win gold medals at the Olympics, but indeed, the process to reach this point was incredibly hard," said Hendra.
There is optimism though that the promise shown in speed will translate to the walls of Paris.
Former world record holder Veddriq Leonardo could still qualify for the Games if he finishes well at a tournament in Hungary later this month.
"Of course we are hoping that speed climbing, as a debut sport at the Olympics, can give a surprise achievement," Indonesia's National Olympic Committee chairman Raja Sapta Oktohari told AFP.
"We have a world champion in this sport. I hope in the 2024 Paris Olympics, Indonesian athletes can score an achievement and a new history," he added, referring to Desak.
But the competition will be tough. Veddriq's world record of 4.90 seconds was beaten twice in April by the American Samuel Watson and is now 4.798 seconds.
Regardless of the pressure and weight of expectation, Desak is primed to give her all.
"I hope my dream to hear Indonesia Raya (national anthem) reverberate at the Olympics will come true," she said.
"My dream is to win a gold medal."



For Olympic Athletes Soaked by Rain at the Opening Ceremony, Getting Sick Isn’t a Concern

United States' Coco Gauff and Lebron James travel along the Seine River in Paris, France, during the opening ceremony of the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP)
United States' Coco Gauff and Lebron James travel along the Seine River in Paris, France, during the opening ceremony of the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP)
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For Olympic Athletes Soaked by Rain at the Opening Ceremony, Getting Sick Isn’t a Concern

United States' Coco Gauff and Lebron James travel along the Seine River in Paris, France, during the opening ceremony of the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP)
United States' Coco Gauff and Lebron James travel along the Seine River in Paris, France, during the opening ceremony of the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, July 26, 2024. (AP)

The Olympians were wet for hours. For some, it didn't matter. Others had to navigate the unexpected conditions and make the most of it.

Athletes from around the world paraded on boats in rain-soaked uniforms for Friday's soggy opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics. The four-hour event on the Seine River went on despite rain throughout the evening, ranging from light showers to intense downpours.

It made for less than ideal conditions for athletes preparing to begin intense competition across Paris. A few events, including soccer and rugby sevens, began days before the opening ceremony, but much of the action got underway Saturday. Skateboarding, originally set to open Saturday, was postponed because of the rain.

Technically, standing in the rain and cold alone isn't what makes people sick. Being in those conditions for long periods of time can affect the immune system, though. Which is why Austrian marathon swimmer Jan Hercog said Friday he was taking vitamin C and other supplements to get through the ceremony.

Athletes from some countries had no concerns at all. They grabbed umbrellas and ponchos, and their show went on.

“I waited until a little bit into the rain (before putting on the poncho), so I was pretty wet when I put it on, but that’s OK,” Spain women's basketball player Megan Gustafson said. “It was still fun.”

At the end of practice Saturday in Villneuve-d’Ascq, where the Olympics are playing the group stage for basketball, Gustafson said the rain was not an issue during the ceremony even if the ponchos messed with staying fashionable.

Gustafson, 27, also wasn’t worried about catching a cold on the verge of her Olympic debut. Spain, which finished sixth in Tokyo after winning silver at the 2016 Rio Games, opens group play for the women Sunday against China at Pierre Mauroy Stadium.

“The weather was relatively warm and the rain wasn’t super cold or anything, so I felt comfortable,” Gustafson said. “I don’t think any of my teammates are sick, so we’re all right.”

The United States women's basketball team left the ceremony early and got on their buses from Paris back to Lille.

“It was raining. I don’t know if you guys saw,” WNBA star A'ja Wilson deadpanned. “A little weather issue. I wasn’t really into everything as much as I wanted to be.”

Maksym Cheberiaka, spokesperson for Ukraine’s Olympic Committee, said that Ukrainian athletes didn’t have any health concerns because of the rain. Those who had competitions scheduled for Saturday either didn’t participate or left the ceremony early.

US flag bearers LeBron James and Coco Gauff wore the clear plastic ponchos to protect their matching white jackets. They were smiling and laughing, but they were drenched.

“A phenomenal experience, obviously, to be there with my fellow Olympians,” James said. “I was representing the red, white and blue, I was representing our country. It’s very humbling and an honor to be part of that group, all the athletes from all the different states and cities all around America. And just being on one boat and representing us for the start of the games, it was a true honor.”

Fellow basketball Olympian Kevin Durant, who could join James in the team's Olympic opener Sunday, posted a photo of himself in the US outfit for the opening — navy blazer, button-down shirt, denim jeans — on Instagram with the caption “Whole outfit soaked but we here.”

“We were soaking,” James said. “If you saw KD’s post, he was not telling any fibs. We were pretty drenched when we got back to the hotel.”

US men’s coach Steve Kerr wasn’t at the opening ceremony. That means he stayed dry.

“I was watching on TV seeing all the rain,” Kerr said. “This isn’t ideal, but I think it’ll be an experience and a memory that these guys will have for life that will far exceed the inconvenience of the rain.”