South Lebanon Farmers Brave Israeli Fire to Harvest Olives

Palestinian flag seem next to the Hezbollah flag in southern Lebanon (AFP)
Palestinian flag seem next to the Hezbollah flag in southern Lebanon (AFP)
TT
20

South Lebanon Farmers Brave Israeli Fire to Harvest Olives

Palestinian flag seem next to the Hezbollah flag in southern Lebanon (AFP)
Palestinian flag seem next to the Hezbollah flag in southern Lebanon (AFP)

Farmer Ghassan Hassan and his laborers have been toiling tirelessly to harvest olives in fields near Lebanon's southern border, undeterred by nearby Israeli bombings and the whirr of surveillance aircraft.

Olive harvesting is a main source of income for villagers, but this year the season has coincided with tit-for-tat cross-border exchanges between Israeli troops and the Iran-backed Hezbollah as the Israel-Hamas war rages in Gaza.

"Aircraft hover over our heads day and night while we work, making the workers anxious. They sometimes get so frightened they leave," said Hassan, in his 50s, who is picking green and purple olives near the town of Hasbaya.

"This year is unlike the ones before," he added.

As he spoke, one of his workers received news his village had been hit by a bombardment.

Stopping work, he frantically tried to call relatives with trembling hands before hearing they were all safe, breathing a sigh of relief as he returned to work.

Since Hamas fighters stormed across the Gaza border on October 7, Israeli warplanes have been bombarding the Palestinian territory, killing more than 8,500 in violence that has also triggered a wave of unrest along the Israel-Lebanon border.

So far, at least 63 people have been killed in Lebanon according to an AFP tally, mostly combatants but also five civilians.

And eight people have been killed in Israel, among them both soldiers and civilians.

The escalating exchanges of fire have made olive picking near the border particularly dangerous.

But despite the frequent nearby shelling and non-stop buzzing of reconnaissance aircraft, the farmers have not stopped coming to their lands.

Lebanese farmers mostly rely on Syrian laborers during harvest season, but many living near the border have fled, Hassan said.

"It has become difficult for us to find workers," he told AFP.

So far, thousands have fled the south due to the border tensions with nearly 29,000 people displaced across the whole of Lebanon, figures from the UN's International Organization for Migration show.

Israeli attacks have also set olive groves and greenery ablaze, with Agriculture Minister Abbas Al Hajj Hassan accusing Israel of carrying out white phosphorus attacks, saying the incendiary substance had burnt down 40,000 olive trees.

Rights groups and Lebanese officials have repeatedly accused Israel of using white phosphorus which catches fire on contact with the air and can inflict serious burns -- allegations Israel has previously denied.

Farmer Hussein Shaheen, in his 70s, was one of those picking the tiny fruit outside Hasbaya as explosions resonated in the distance.

But he has been clear with his workers: they must have the olives packed up and ready for transport so they can move quickly if shelling hits.

Across the border regions of Hasbaya and Marjayoun, families and laborers are out and about in the olive groves, resting in the shade or climbing trees to pick the fruit.

"People are risking their lives" because olives are their main source of income, Shaheen said.

"Every year, they await harvesting season so they can sell olive oil and make a living," he said.

"When bombs fall, they go home" only to return the next day, he said.

The Hasbaya region counts about a million and a half olive trees, according to Rasheed Zuwaihed of the local olive cooperative.

"Whether there is bombing or not, people have no choice but to go out to the fields," said the 73-year-old, a retired teacher who owns an olive press.

"They certainly take risks, but they are forced" to do so to survive, he said.

In a nearby field, the Shaar family are picking olives together.

"We are not afraid, but the buzzing of aircraft... is playing with our nerves," said Mona Shaar, 54, smiling as she gathered olives in her apron.

Some of her relatives covered the ground with a plastic sheet to catch the fruit while others took turns hitting the branches with a stick to harvest the fruit.

Working nearby, Mona’s cousin Adnan said he's used to the sound of explosions, now a regular occurrence in the area.

"I know people who couldn't harvest because they are closer to the border and under bombardment," he told AFP.

"They left their harvest, their land... It's hard," he said.

"Your harvest is like your child, you care for it as you would for your own son."



Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
TT
20

Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP

When Burger King announced it was selling caviar with nuggets at its French restaurants on April 1, many people assumed it was an April Fool's joke.

But as news spread on social media, buyers rushed to try one of the world's most expensive delicacies paired with a humble and highly commoditized piece of deep-fried chicken while limited stocks lasted, said AFP.

For 19 euros ($22), they got seven nuggets, mayonnaise and a 10-gram (0.35-ounce) pouch of Chinese-origin caviar from the Astana brand, which explained it had worked with the fast-food giant to "make the caviar of chefs available to as many people as possible".

It was a marketing coup -- the story quickly went viral after being picked up by French news outlets -- but it also revealed how the image of caviar as an out-of-reach luxury product is rapidly changing.

As with most new food trends, interest in the exclusive fish eggs is being driven by online influencers and celebrities.

Rihanna posted a video to her 150 million followers on Instagram on December 20 last year showing her eating nuggets topped with caviar.

"I don't like how much I like this," she began.

US celebrity chef David Chang is also a champion, with a 2022 Instagram video showing him dunking a deep-fried chicken leg into a one-kilogram tin of caviar -- "one of my favorite most obscene things to do" -- which racked up more than three million views.

He credits New York chef Wylie Dufresne with first adding it to the menu at his influential WD~50 restaurant in the 2010s.

Last year, the US Open tennis tournament caused a stir by selling a $100 box of six nuggets with caviar created by the luxury Manhattan fried chicken restaurant Coqodaq.

'Less formal'

Producers and food writers have mixed feelings about the popularization of the culinary indulgence, which sells for 1,000 to 30,000 euros a kilogram depending on the type.

The high prices are due to rarity and the high investment producers make in the sturgeon fish needed for caviar, which start to produce eggs only after eight or 10 years.

The most expensive caviar -- the one famously preferred by Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor -- is the roe of the beluga sturgeon, which takes at least 15 years to mature.

Mikael Petrossian, head of the French brand Petrossian, said there was a "demystification" of caviar underway.

"Caviar doesn't necessarily have to come in a large tin with silver serving pieces... You can enjoy the product in a much more relaxed way," he said. "I personally like eating caviar with crisps."

The founder of French caviar producer Neuvic, Laurent Deverlanges, says his company also aims to make it "less formal".

He posted a review of the "King Nugget Caviar" menu online, concluding that "it works, even if you can't really taste the caviar much".

But Olivier Cabarrot, the head of the France-based Prunier brand whose caviar restaurant is one of the most famous in the world, pushes back on the idea of it becoming a regular product.

"In terms of gastronomy, there is nothing as expensive. It's hard to talk about it becoming 'democratised'," he said. "But we can speak of greater accessibility, achieved through the sale of smaller quantities rather than lower prices."

Many distributors including Petrossian and Prunier offer tins of 10, 20 or 30 grams, helping to attract a younger clientele.

Dreamy

Remi Dechambre, a food journalist at Le Parisien newspaper, said people associated caviar with opulence and refinement less and less.

"We've completely moved on from that... Consumption has become a little more common, a little less formal -- even though it still makes people dream," he told AFP.

But knowing how to enjoy the product properly remains essential, said Francoise Boisseaud, managing director of the supplier Le Comptoir du Caviar.

"There's a whole education to be done," she said about the different types -- baeri, oscietre, sevruga or beluga .

For her, the best way to enjoy it is with a crusty baguette and butter, not with fried chicken or crisps.

Robin Panfili, a food journalist who runs the food blog "Entree, Plat, Dessert", said Burger King had pulled off a "marketing trick".

"By trying to bring together two worlds that are completely opposed -- luxury and fast food -- the aim is to shake up the codes, to demystify a product historically seen as luxurious and elitist. It's visual, it's viral, it sparks discussion because it's provocative," he told AFP.