Palestinian Climbers Defy Wartime Obstacles to Scale West Bank Cliffs

The nascent Palestinian climbing community has adapted to new challenges after the Israel-Hamas war. Sonia LOGRE / AFP
The nascent Palestinian climbing community has adapted to new challenges after the Israel-Hamas war. Sonia LOGRE / AFP
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Palestinian Climbers Defy Wartime Obstacles to Scale West Bank Cliffs

The nascent Palestinian climbing community has adapted to new challenges after the Israel-Hamas war. Sonia LOGRE / AFP
The nascent Palestinian climbing community has adapted to new challenges after the Israel-Hamas war. Sonia LOGRE / AFP

As Palestinian climber Faris Abu Gosh encouraged his friend ascending a limestone cliff in the occupied West Bank, the war raging in Gaza momentarily slipped from his mind.
Scaling rock faces has offered solace since the fighting erupted, but he and his friends have also had to face mounting challenges in what was already not an easy place for their budding climbing community, AFP said.
Yet, they have simply adapted, finding detours around new Israeli checkpoints or ways to avoid the heightened risks of confrontations with soldiers or settlers living in the surrounding hills.
"For the last seven years I've been completely obsessed with climbing and developed my entire life around it", said Abu Gosh, a 22-year-old physiotherapy student.
On a recent Saturday, a dozen Palestinian and Italian climbers were geared up in Wadi al-Ghul, a West Bank river valley that turns lush and green with winter rain.
As much as Palestinian climbers enjoy this recently opened spot for its natural beauty, they also appreciate its location far from Israeli settlements, which are considered illegal under international law.
And when Israeli troops are in the area, "we feel safer when foreigners come climb with us," said Abu Gosh.
"Soldiers usually don't bother white people."
Increased military presence
At least 435 Palestinians have been killed by Israeli forces or settlers in the West Bank since the Israel-Hamas war began on October 7, according to Palestinian Authority data.
"In the first month, it was almost impossible to leave certain towns and villages, because the Israeli army closed roads," said Heba Shaheen, president of the Palestine Climbing Association.
"It was really hard, and it is still very hard," she added, describing a widespread feeling of insecurity in the West Bank.
Climbers have to travel on dirt roads and make long detours, Shaheen said, noting they might have to drive 90 minutes just because they cannot cross a 50-meter (160-foot) stretch of road that is only for settlers.
One of the climbers, Tariq Kaabna, told AFP an Israeli soldier had just that morning taken a water bottle from him and dumped its contents into Kaabna's backpack.
At the Ein Qiniya site, near Ramallah, "there has been an increase in settlers and soldiers going into the area," said Abu Gosh, who hails from the Qalandia refugee camp.
"Once the climbers were kicked out of the climbing site for military purposes. This stuff actually wasn't happening before," he added.
Ein Farah, a canyon filled by a river in winter time, has been closed to all climbers by Israeli park authorities since the beginning of the war.
Though located in the West Bank just 15 kilometers (9 miles) east of Jerusalem, the site was declared an Israeli nature reserve named Ein Prat, a practice that rights groups have labeled as a roundabout way of restricting Palestinian access to West Bank land.
'Nothing could help us forget'
The West Bank's rocky topography offers massive potential for establishing or "bolting" new routes, dozens of which have been opened over the past 15 years.
However, climbing's physicality brings the Palestinian sporting community further into the land struggle that has rocked the West Bank since Israel's 1967 occupation of the territory.
"When we were developing we would see or hear the military but we thought it would be safe," said Tim Bruns, a US climber who bolted some of the first West Bank routes in the mid-2010s with his friend Will Harris.
Bruns told AFP he was set to join a climbing trip to the West Bank in December with mountaineering star Alex Honnold, but it was canceled at the last minute over security and access concerns.
For Palestinian climbers like Shaheen and Abu Gosh, they have felt guilty at times for continuing climbing while the war rages in Gaza.
"Before the war, climbing was an escape. But after the war started there was nothing that could help us forget what is going on (in Gaza)," she told AFP.
Though the Palestinian climbing community is in its early days, Shaheen hopes they will one day get to compete in the Olympics.
The inclusion of the Palestine Climbing Association in the International Federation of Sport Climbing in February 2024 was one step in this direction.
"The ultimate goal is to sustain the climbing in Palestine by Palestinians," she said.



Milan’s Historic La Scala Cracks Down on Tourist Dress Code

Milan’s La Scala opera house is an important Italian music institution dating back to the 16th century (Getty Images)
Milan’s La Scala opera house is an important Italian music institution dating back to the 16th century (Getty Images)
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Milan’s Historic La Scala Cracks Down on Tourist Dress Code

Milan’s La Scala opera house is an important Italian music institution dating back to the 16th century (Getty Images)
Milan’s La Scala opera house is an important Italian music institution dating back to the 16th century (Getty Images)

A historic opera house in Milan has cracked down on patrons and tourists entering the prestigious venue wearing summer attire such as shorts, tank tops and flip flops, warning they will be turned away if not dressed appropriately.

The opera was seen as a symbol of wealth and exclusivity in 19th-century high society, and the bourgeois elite of this time period would have been expected to turn up in tailcoats, cravats and long evening dresses, The Independent newspaper wrote on Monday.

While this opulent attire is not expected of patrons nowadays, it said Milan’s Teatro alla Scala opera house, commonly known as La Scala, has recently reinforced its smart dress code in the wake of opera-goers turning up in casual summer fashion.

“The public is kindly requested to dress in keeping with the decorum of the theater, out of respect for the theater and for other viewers,” La Scala’s policy said.

“People wearing shorts or sleeveless T-shirts will not be allowed inside the auditorium; in this case, tickets will not be reimbursed.”

The venue also has signs around the foyer and on tickets stating the same message, warning patrons that they will not get a refund if they turn up wearing clothes not in keeping with the “decorum.”

The rules over informal clothing were first introduced in 2015 when the summer season coincided with the World Expo in Milan, as a way to deter the influx of tourists turning up in summer wear.

“There are no special dress code requirements at La Scala,” a spokesperson at the theater told The Independent. “We are delighted that some of our audience members consider an evening at La Scala to be a special occasion and dress accordingly, but our priority is to welcome everyone and make sure they feel comfortable.

“This is precisely why, in 2015, we introduced restrictions on clothing that could cause discomfort to other audience members who have to share the often limited space of an 18th-century theater.

“With the return of summer (an especially hot one), we reminded the audience of these rules, which have remained unchanged for ten years.

“It would not be right to tell spectators how to dress, but it is necessary that they do dress, as not to cause discomfort to other people,” the spokesperson added.

La Scala’s spokesman added that there had been a “change in behavior led by visitors who do not follow opera but see La Scala as a landmark.”