Cleaning up the Seine: The Olympics Boosts a Parisian Dream, but It’s Still Far from Fully Achieved

 People swim in the Seine river after Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo swam in the river, Wednesday, July 17, 2024 in Paris, France. (AP)
People swim in the Seine river after Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo swam in the river, Wednesday, July 17, 2024 in Paris, France. (AP)
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Cleaning up the Seine: The Olympics Boosts a Parisian Dream, but It’s Still Far from Fully Achieved

 People swim in the Seine river after Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo swam in the river, Wednesday, July 17, 2024 in Paris, France. (AP)
People swim in the Seine river after Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo swam in the river, Wednesday, July 17, 2024 in Paris, France. (AP)

The Seine River has been one of the stars of the Olympics — whether as the scene of the ambitious opening ceremony or as the Games’ choice for the triathlon and marathon swimming competitions.

The challenges to featuring the famed Paris waterway so prominently were considerable. The work that went into tackling one of the largest — concerns about its water quality — could be the Games’ biggest legacy for the river snaking through the French capital and arguably for Paris itself.

Authorities vow that their 1.4 billion-euro ($1.5 billion) cleanup efforts will allow a river that was so polluted Parisians were banned from taking a dip in it for a century to finally open up as a summertime swim spot. They also hope a cleaner river revitalizes the overall environment. Some experts are skeptical, however, and the Olympics have shown there still remain some hurdles ahead.

Results of daily testing during the Games showed the Seine’s water was not always in line with acceptable guidelines for illness-causing bacteria such as E. coli. That canceled several test swims and postponed the men’s individual triathlon by a day. Better results later allowed Olympic events to take place.

French President Emmanuel Macron claimed victory following the Olympic triathlon tests, calling it “a fabulous legacy for the Paris region’s residents who will be able to swim in and for biodiversity.”

Bathing spots for all

For many Parisians, swimming in the Seine has been nothing but a dream.

In the 1970s, only three to four fish species were living in the Paris section of the river, with waters deeply polluted from industrial activity. Now, around 35 fish species may need to get used to sharing the Seine.

A swimming test open to the public has been scheduled for mid-September ahead of a city promise that anyone can take a dip starting next summer.

Paris officials have identified three potential bathing spots, one close to Notre Dame Cathedral, another near the Eiffel Tower and a third in eastern Paris.

It is dependent on water quality results falling in line with European rules.

In a warming world, the river could help people stay cool during increasingly frequent heat waves. However, rain storms can wash runoff and wastewater — and, therefore, bacteria — into the river, and climate change is making weather more extreme.

Since 2017, Parisians have been swimming during the summer in the Canal de l’Ourcq, in a northern part of the capital. By contrast with the Seine, water in the Canal de l’Ourcq has been consistently found to be of good quality over the past few years, according to analyses reviewed by the Regional Health Authority.

A challenging cleanup

To get the Seine to a swimmable state, authorities opened new disinfection units and created a huge storage basin meant to prevent as much bacteria-laden wastewater as possible from spilling directly into the Seine when it rains.

Officials also have targeted houseboats that used to empty their sewage directly into the Seine, requiring them to hook up to municipal sewer systems or lose their berth.

Recent efforts are heading in the right direction, yet they’re still insufficient to guarantee clean waters, said Michel Riottot, a health and environment expert at the France Nature Environnement group.

That’s because when sewage networks become saturated with rainwater — especially during storms — they still discharge surplus into the Seine, he said. Plus, when there is rain upstream in a region known for its grain farming, pesticides accumulate into waterways flowing into the Seine, Riottot added.

Some 23,000 homes upstream of Paris also are emptying their sewage into the rainwater system that flows directly into the river, Riottot said.

For the Olympics, only two indicators were being analyzed for Seine water quality: the fecal bacteria E. coli and enterococci.

“If you can find them at a higher level than legal thresholds, it means there are lots of other things that can sometimes be more dangerous than these two” in the water, Riottot said, such as COVID-19, hepatitis A and chemical pollution.

Ready to dive in

Still, the idea of swimming in the Paris landmark is irresistible to many.

An experienced open water swimmer, Sina Witte got enthusiastic when she and other members of her Parisian swim club were offered the chance to take a dip alongside Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo just before the Olympics.

“I really enjoyed it,” she said this week, spending about 45 minutes swimming down and up the river. She did not get sick afterward.

“I’m not racking my head too much about it — as soon as we can swim around, I’m going, it makes me happy,” Witte said.

She participated in a triathlon competition in the river in 2009, 2010 and 2011 — exceptions to the general ban on swimming there since 1923.

In 2010, participants received a warning that the river didn’t comply with water quality requirements. The E. coli levels were 2.5 times higher than required, according to a photo of the document seen by AP.

Witte remembered that thousands of people took part.

Olympics’ environmental efforts

Paris City Hall promised that “the whole ecosystem will benefit from this cleanup project.”

François Houix, Olympics project manager at the Voies Navigables de France, the body in charge of managing the country’s inland waterways network, said the Olympics helped broader efforts to improve how rivers and streams work.

A floating barrier set up upstream of the Olympic swimming site catches both green and plastic waste and other polluting items in the Seine, he said. The system will be extended after the Games.

State-sponsored benefits also urge boat companies to be greener, including a bonus when boat operators switch to electric engines. There will be about 40 electric boats operating in Paris by the end of the year, up from only one in 2018, Houix said.

The Games also prompted a 15-million-euro investment to reopen a branch of the Seine to boats in the disadvantaged northern suburbs of Paris. That’s because a main stream along the Olympic Village was closed for weeks for security reasons.

Local officials say that when boat traffic stops on weekends or later in the day during the summer, it will allow swimming, rowing and stand-up paddleboarding either on that reopened branch or on the main stream, Houix said.



Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
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Elitist No More, Caviar is Turning Casual

Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP
Many caviar producers are embracing the trend. GEORGES GOBET / AFP

When Burger King announced it was selling caviar with nuggets at its French restaurants on April 1, many people assumed it was an April Fool's joke.

But as news spread on social media, buyers rushed to try one of the world's most expensive delicacies paired with a humble and highly commoditized piece of deep-fried chicken while limited stocks lasted, said AFP.

For 19 euros ($22), they got seven nuggets, mayonnaise and a 10-gram (0.35-ounce) pouch of Chinese-origin caviar from the Astana brand, which explained it had worked with the fast-food giant to "make the caviar of chefs available to as many people as possible".

It was a marketing coup -- the story quickly went viral after being picked up by French news outlets -- but it also revealed how the image of caviar as an out-of-reach luxury product is rapidly changing.

As with most new food trends, interest in the exclusive fish eggs is being driven by online influencers and celebrities.

Rihanna posted a video to her 150 million followers on Instagram on December 20 last year showing her eating nuggets topped with caviar.

"I don't like how much I like this," she began.

US celebrity chef David Chang is also a champion, with a 2022 Instagram video showing him dunking a deep-fried chicken leg into a one-kilogram tin of caviar -- "one of my favorite most obscene things to do" -- which racked up more than three million views.

He credits New York chef Wylie Dufresne with first adding it to the menu at his influential WD~50 restaurant in the 2010s.

Last year, the US Open tennis tournament caused a stir by selling a $100 box of six nuggets with caviar created by the luxury Manhattan fried chicken restaurant Coqodaq.

'Less formal'

Producers and food writers have mixed feelings about the popularization of the culinary indulgence, which sells for 1,000 to 30,000 euros a kilogram depending on the type.

The high prices are due to rarity and the high investment producers make in the sturgeon fish needed for caviar, which start to produce eggs only after eight or 10 years.

The most expensive caviar -- the one famously preferred by Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor -- is the roe of the beluga sturgeon, which takes at least 15 years to mature.

Mikael Petrossian, head of the French brand Petrossian, said there was a "demystification" of caviar underway.

"Caviar doesn't necessarily have to come in a large tin with silver serving pieces... You can enjoy the product in a much more relaxed way," he said. "I personally like eating caviar with crisps."

The founder of French caviar producer Neuvic, Laurent Deverlanges, says his company also aims to make it "less formal".

He posted a review of the "King Nugget Caviar" menu online, concluding that "it works, even if you can't really taste the caviar much".

But Olivier Cabarrot, the head of the France-based Prunier brand whose caviar restaurant is one of the most famous in the world, pushes back on the idea of it becoming a regular product.

"In terms of gastronomy, there is nothing as expensive. It's hard to talk about it becoming 'democratised'," he said. "But we can speak of greater accessibility, achieved through the sale of smaller quantities rather than lower prices."

Many distributors including Petrossian and Prunier offer tins of 10, 20 or 30 grams, helping to attract a younger clientele.

Dreamy

Remi Dechambre, a food journalist at Le Parisien newspaper, said people associated caviar with opulence and refinement less and less.

"We've completely moved on from that... Consumption has become a little more common, a little less formal -- even though it still makes people dream," he told AFP.

But knowing how to enjoy the product properly remains essential, said Francoise Boisseaud, managing director of the supplier Le Comptoir du Caviar.

"There's a whole education to be done," she said about the different types -- baeri, oscietre, sevruga or beluga .

For her, the best way to enjoy it is with a crusty baguette and butter, not with fried chicken or crisps.

Robin Panfili, a food journalist who runs the food blog "Entree, Plat, Dessert", said Burger King had pulled off a "marketing trick".

"By trying to bring together two worlds that are completely opposed -- luxury and fast food -- the aim is to shake up the codes, to demystify a product historically seen as luxurious and elitist. It's visual, it's viral, it sparks discussion because it's provocative," he told AFP.