Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
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Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)

In the kitchen of his Kabul restaurant, one of the last cooks to master the Afghan culinary art of "chainaki" stuffs chunks of lamb and fat into about 200 tiny teapots to simmer for hours atop a clay stove.

From dawn onwards, Waheed is a study in concentration as he checks the pots time and again -- making sure each is marinading with the precise proportion of fat rendered.

Once the pots are bubbling to his satisfaction he adds salt and lentils, before bathing the contents in a tomato-coloured sauce and secret spices.

"The recipe has been the same for over 60 years, passed down to me by my father," says Waheed, 45, who prefers to give only one name.

"He himself inherited it from his father. I haven't changed a thing."

With the fire crackling, the teapots -- many decades old, chipped or missing handles -- are covered with a sheet as the contents simmer away.

The heat quickly fills the restaurant and the heady smell of stewed lamb hangs heavy in the air.

Only then can Waheed take a break to tell his story.

He dropped out of school at 13 to hang around the kitchens in his father's restaurants before being handed the secret recipe -- which he worries may be revealed to his competitors through media coverage.

Some like it fat

The lamb stew he makes gets its name from the teapot -- "chainak" in several local languages -- in which it is cooked.

"I don't add any vegetable oil," he says, but the amount of lamb fat in each pot varies according to the taste of the customers arriving in a few hours.

Waheed took over the restaurant aged just 25 after his father died -- and confesses his own dish isn't quite as good.

"No pupil can replace his teacher, just as we can't replace our father," he says.

But he expects the family business may end when he calls it quits, as none of his 10 children wants to follow on.

"They're studying at school. They don't have the patience to do this work," he says.

After five hours of closely supervised cooking the chainaki is ready and the customers -- many already sitting cross-legged on platforms -- can finally enjoy their meal.

The stew is poured onto plates, eaten with ubiquitous unleavened Afghan bread, and washed down with lashings of green tea.

It costs 200 Afghanis ($2.30) a serving.

"When I eat it, I feel energetic until the evening," says Zabihullah, who has been a regular for 15 years, visiting up to three times a week.

"It's so delicious and tasty," adds Ghulam Usman Tarin, a more recent convert.

Over the years Waheed has served Afghan celebrities, politicians, as well as the few foreigners that seek out his humble restaurant -- and he puts his money where his mouth is, eating it himself every day.

He is usually sold out shortly after lunch, but then it is straight back to work as he carves up a sheep carcass for meat and fat to make the next day's serving.

"I'll keep doing it as long as I am strong enough," he says.



Multi-Billion-Dollar Art Districts to Be Developed as Part of Diriyah Project in Saudi Arabia

The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
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Multi-Billion-Dollar Art Districts to Be Developed as Part of Diriyah Project in Saudi Arabia

The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)

Diriyah Company announced on Wednesday the details of two high-profile multi-billion-dollar educational and arts districts to be developed as part of the $63.2 billion Diriyah project on the outskirts of Riyadh.

The announcement was made during the second edition of its annual international event “Bashayer - Delivering our Future”, which gathered global investors, hospitality companies, construction firms, infrastructure experts and sports, arts, culture, tourism and retail sector representatives, Diriyah Company said in a statement.

The two new districts, the Qurain Cultural District and the Northern District, are proof of the accelerating growth and development of Diriyah, one of the world’s biggest and most unique urban development projects spanning an area of 14 square kilometers.

The Qurain Cultural District is set to become a vibrant global hub where culture meets modern urban living. It will offer a diverse range of arts, retail, office, and residential spaces for people to live, work, shop local brands, and enjoy local dining experiences.

Its cultural offerings will include a cinema, museums, and several academies focused on writing, traditional Najdi architecture and mud building, Arabic music, culinary arts, performing arts, and theater. It will also include two world-class hotels and branded residences: the Ritz-Carlton Diriyah, with 195 rooms and 165 residences, and the Address Diriyah, offering 204 rooms and 60 serviced apartments.

The district will feature 19 mixed-use buildings, including office, retail, and residences, 10 of which have various boutique office options, and a wide range of retail space and dining venues.

The development of the Qurain Cultural District will proceed under a SAR5.8 billion ($1.55 billion) contract.

Development work in the Northern District began following the announcement of a partnership contract worth SAR7.8 billion ($2 billion) in July 2024.

The Northern District, said the release, will transform Diriyah into a global hub for scholars, students, and visionaries. It will feature the King Salman Foundation, museums, a university, a library, and a lively public square. It will also host the newly announced Capella Diriyah, a 100-room luxury hotel that represents Capella Hotels and Resorts' first venture in the Middle East.

Work on the Northern District is already under way after a SAR7.8 billion ($2 billion) joint venture contract was awarded to China State Construction Engineering Cooperation Limited and El Seif Engineering Contracting Co. Ltd.

Commenting on the new high-profile districts, Diriyah Company Group CEO Jerry Inzerillo said: “Qurain Cultural District and Northern District are two of the most important and significant areas of the Diriyah masterplan, and demonstrate the range and diversity of what Diriyah has to offer.”

“They will both become global centers of excellence, of knowledge, learning and creativity as Diriyah once more becomes a gathering place for the world. We are delighted to share details of these major developments at Bashayer and share once more the unique range of investment opportunities and partnerships the Diriyah Company has to offer the world,” he added.

The Diriyah project is one of Saudi Arabia’s five giga-projects supported by the Public Investment Fund, the world's fifth-largest sovereign wealth fund. It aims to provide homes for 100,000 residents, create 178,000 jobs, attract 50 million visitors annually, and contribute $18.6 billion to Saudi Arabia’s GDP.