Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
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Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)

In the kitchen of his Kabul restaurant, one of the last cooks to master the Afghan culinary art of "chainaki" stuffs chunks of lamb and fat into about 200 tiny teapots to simmer for hours atop a clay stove.

From dawn onwards, Waheed is a study in concentration as he checks the pots time and again -- making sure each is marinading with the precise proportion of fat rendered.

Once the pots are bubbling to his satisfaction he adds salt and lentils, before bathing the contents in a tomato-coloured sauce and secret spices.

"The recipe has been the same for over 60 years, passed down to me by my father," says Waheed, 45, who prefers to give only one name.

"He himself inherited it from his father. I haven't changed a thing."

With the fire crackling, the teapots -- many decades old, chipped or missing handles -- are covered with a sheet as the contents simmer away.

The heat quickly fills the restaurant and the heady smell of stewed lamb hangs heavy in the air.

Only then can Waheed take a break to tell his story.

He dropped out of school at 13 to hang around the kitchens in his father's restaurants before being handed the secret recipe -- which he worries may be revealed to his competitors through media coverage.

Some like it fat

The lamb stew he makes gets its name from the teapot -- "chainak" in several local languages -- in which it is cooked.

"I don't add any vegetable oil," he says, but the amount of lamb fat in each pot varies according to the taste of the customers arriving in a few hours.

Waheed took over the restaurant aged just 25 after his father died -- and confesses his own dish isn't quite as good.

"No pupil can replace his teacher, just as we can't replace our father," he says.

But he expects the family business may end when he calls it quits, as none of his 10 children wants to follow on.

"They're studying at school. They don't have the patience to do this work," he says.

After five hours of closely supervised cooking the chainaki is ready and the customers -- many already sitting cross-legged on platforms -- can finally enjoy their meal.

The stew is poured onto plates, eaten with ubiquitous unleavened Afghan bread, and washed down with lashings of green tea.

It costs 200 Afghanis ($2.30) a serving.

"When I eat it, I feel energetic until the evening," says Zabihullah, who has been a regular for 15 years, visiting up to three times a week.

"It's so delicious and tasty," adds Ghulam Usman Tarin, a more recent convert.

Over the years Waheed has served Afghan celebrities, politicians, as well as the few foreigners that seek out his humble restaurant -- and he puts his money where his mouth is, eating it himself every day.

He is usually sold out shortly after lunch, but then it is straight back to work as he carves up a sheep carcass for meat and fat to make the next day's serving.

"I'll keep doing it as long as I am strong enough," he says.



'Riyadh Reads' is the Motto of Riyadh International Book Fair 2024

The motto aims to emphasize the importance of reading in enhancing the quality of life and broadening the intellectual and cultural horizons of readers
The motto aims to emphasize the importance of reading in enhancing the quality of life and broadening the intellectual and cultural horizons of readers
TT

'Riyadh Reads' is the Motto of Riyadh International Book Fair 2024

The motto aims to emphasize the importance of reading in enhancing the quality of life and broadening the intellectual and cultural horizons of readers
The motto aims to emphasize the importance of reading in enhancing the quality of life and broadening the intellectual and cultural horizons of readers

The Saudi Literature, Publishing, and Translation Commission has announced the motto for the Riyadh International Book Fair (RIBF) as "Riyadh Reads."

The fair, organized by the commission, will be held from September 26 to October 5 at King Saud University, with the participation of leading figures in culture, literature, and thought from the Kingdom, the region, and the world.

The motto aims to emphasize the importance of reading in enhancing the quality of life and broadening the intellectual and cultural horizons of readers. It also highlights Riyadh as a city that promotes reading, featuring images of people holding books and reading with the words "Riyadh Reads," reflecting the spirit of the fair and expressing its cultural, intellectual, and literary content.

An awareness campaign for the RIBF motto was launched to attract the attention of the public, including adults, adolescents, children, readers, and publishers. The campaign includes billboards in the streets of Riyadh and King Khalid International Airport featuring images of people holding books with the slogan "Riyadh Reads."
Over 2,000 publishing houses and agencies from the Kingdom, the region, and the world will participate in this year's fair, distributed across 800 pavilions and representing over 30 countries. This reflects the significant importance of the RIBF as one of the most prominent and important book fairs at the regional and global levels.

The new edition of the fair offers a rich cultural program that includes over 200 events suitable for all ages. The events encompass various seminars, panel discussions, lectures, poetry evenings, and workshops presented by a select group of writers, intellectuals, and cultural figures from Saudi Arabia and other countries.

The topics discussed will cover various fields, and the outdoor area of the fair will feature numerous interactive shows and distinctive cultural, artistic, and theatrical events presented by a group of artists and theater professionals.