Afghan Village Potters Keep Centuries-old Tradition Alive

An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
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Afghan Village Potters Keep Centuries-old Tradition Alive

An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP
An Afghan potter takes sun-dried bowls from the roof of his kiln to stack for firing in Istalif village, Afghanistan. Wakil Kohsar / AFP

Twice a month, Noor Agha Faqiri lights up the kiln at his small workshop around 50 kilometers (30 miles) northwest of the Afghan capital to fire a fresh batch of pottery.

Faqiri is one of dozens of potters in Qarya-e-Kulalan (potter's village) in the picturesque Istalif district, but many have ceased production since the Taliban's return to power in 2021 as the distressed economy has led to sales plummeting.

Faqiri, however, is determined to carry on, AFP said.

"A business that your parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents have worked on should not be let go because it is particularly blessed," the 53-year-old told AFP during a visit.

"My children are also looking at the family business and want to maintain it in any circumstances and prevent it from going under."

Afghanistan has a centuries-old tradition of pottery across the country, but Istalif's reputation for craftsmanship and quality stands out.

The main street of Qarya-e-Kulalan is lined with pottery shops, at least half shuttered because of a lack of business.

Scenic village

But those still open display a dazzling array of jugs, pots, bowls and plates glazed with an eye-catching turquoise, aquamarine and earth-brown finish.

Most customers are day trippers from Kabul, who make the 90-minute drive to picnic in the hills or alongside the rivers surrounding the scenic village.

But wholesale merchants also occasionally show up with bigger orders for hotels and guest houses across Afghanistan -- and beyond.

"Previously, foreigners would come, and people from other provinces would come to see Istalif as it's one of the ancient, green places for tourism," said potter Abdul Hameed Mehran, 32.

The pottery is still made the same way it has been for centuries.

Clay from the surrounding mountains is thrown on wheels that are spun by the potter's feet as his hands deftly work.

"The work that I do is a matter of pride for me," he says.

"It is a source of pride for me that we make items like this in Afghanistan."

'Innovative work'

Mehran throws around 70 to 100 different pieces a day, depending on demand, which are then carefully stacked to part-dry naturally before the monthly bake.

"I come here again and again because new items are always being made and they are good quality," said Shah Agha Azimi, 25, a customer from Kabul



British Museum Explores ‘Silk Roads’ Trade Routes in New Exhibition

People walk in front of the British Museum in London, Britain, on September 28, 2023. (Reuters)
People walk in front of the British Museum in London, Britain, on September 28, 2023. (Reuters)
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British Museum Explores ‘Silk Roads’ Trade Routes in New Exhibition

People walk in front of the British Museum in London, Britain, on September 28, 2023. (Reuters)
People walk in front of the British Museum in London, Britain, on September 28, 2023. (Reuters)

A new exhibition exploring the vast network of the Silk Road trade routes opens at the British Museum in London this week.

Showcasing a range of artifacts including Chinese ceramics, Byzantine jewellery and the earliest known group of chess pieces, "Silk Roads" focuses specifically on the period AD 500 to 1,000, amid the rise of different empires and religions.

"This exhibition is presenting a rather different vision of the Silk Road than some people might be expecting... Rather than a single trade route between east and west, we are showing the Silk Roads plural... as a series of overlapping networks that link communities across Asia, Africa and Europe," exhibition co-curator Sue Brunning told Reuters.

"We're showing that it was not just silk and spices... but also people, objects and ideas moving sometimes great distances, not just by land, but also by sea and river and exchanges taking place in all contexts."

Highlights include loans from central Asia such as a large mural found in the reception hall of an aristocratic house in Samarkand, Uzbekistan and a gilded silver cup from the Galloway Hoard, on loan from the National Museums Scotland.

"Silk Roads" opens on Thursday and runs until February.